• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.10-18
• /
• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.7
• /
• pp.874-881
• /
• 2013

Dansam (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge) is a perennial plant that belongs to the Labiatae family and is characterized by red pigment found in the epidermis of its roots. Research on the dyeability of Dansam extract was performed with repeated trials under various conditions such as temperature, time, and mordant treatment. Silk fabrics were dyed with Dansam extract and mordanted with various agents such as Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn to evaluate the dyeability and functionality of Dansam extract; subsequently, the K/S value and the change of surface color were analyzed using a colorimeter. In addition, the dyeability of dyed fabrics (such as color fastness to washing, dry cleaning fastness, rubbing fastness and light fastness) and functionality (such as antibacterial activity and deodorization) were analyzed. The surface colors of all dyed fabrics were recorded and the results showed the presence of mostly YR series of colors; in addition, a GY color series appeared in the Fe pre-mordants of the silk fabric. The highest K/S values were recorded in Fe post-mordants. The washing fastness were Level 3 and Level 4; in addition, the dry-cleaning fastness showed excellent results at Level 4 and Level 5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory at Level 3 and Level 4 and the light fastness was satisfactory at Level 4. The results of the measurements (that pertained to the antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with Dansam extract) showed a 99.9% bacteria reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. In regards to deodorization ability, dyed fabrics were found to have higher deodorization rates than those not dyed. The dyed fabric demonstrated exceptional deodorization qualities.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.18 no.6
• /
• pp.1315-1321
• /
• 2009

The chemical composition of natural powder dye $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark and dyeability of dyed silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$ were examined. It is made up of the optimum dyeing condition of silk fabric according to the dyeing concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. Also, we examined the colorfastness and antibiosis of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. For the analysis of the chemical composition of $Pinux^{TM}$, the total contents of phenolic compound, proanthocyanidin(PA) and anti-oxidative activities of the dye were analyzed. As a result, it was found that the main components of the $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark is proanthocyanidin, mostly a flavonoid containing a procyanidin structure, and it consists of approximately 63% phenol. As a result of examining the dyeability of silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$, it showed that the dyeability was best under the conditions of the concentration of dye $1{\sim}1.5%$(wt/v%), dyeing time of 90 minutes, and dyeing temperature at $90^{\circ}C$. It was found that the colorfastness of dyed silk fabrics, colorfastness to washing, perspiration for acidic and rubbing were as good as grade 4 or 4-5. However, the colorfastness to light was low at grade 1, the same as the results of other natural dyed fabrics. As a result of the antibiosis measurement for the $Pinux^{TM}$-dyed silk fabrics, it showed high antibacterial properties to Staphylococcus sureus at 99.6%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.79-85
• /
• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.43-54
• /
• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.866-877
• /
• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.320-330
• /
• 2012

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing are $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics were dyed in pre-mordanting. The K/S value of dyeing fabrics could be increased with repetitive dyeing and mordanting. Compared to untreated dyed fabrics, the K/ S values of fabrics which had been treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were increased. The changed surface colors of fabrics that were treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were Y, YR and achromatic colors. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color. Sn-mordanted fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed vivid yellowish color, and Cu-mordanted fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed yellowish green color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness was level 4. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the powder of guava leaf extract and the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.28 no.3
• /
• pp.208-218
• /
• 2016

This study investigated the effects of the working mechanisms of proteins, mordants, and dyes, as well as the mordanting order, on dye uptake by silk fabric pre-treated with proteins and dyed with freeze-dried sappan wood water extract. Soybean protein and sodium caseinate were used as the proteins. 1. When Al mordants were not used, the dyeability of the fabrics increased upon protein pre-treatment as compared to the case without treatment. 2. Dyeing with protein pre-treatment, followed by mordanting, led to the highest dye uptake, and the optimal protein concentration was 5%. 3. The K/S values slightly decreased with an increase in the dyeing temperature, and the fabric turned dark red in color when dyeing was carried out at increasing temperature. Fabrics showed the highest dye uptake at $40^{\circ}C$. 4. Regarding the effect of time, the K/S values of the fabrics with and without protein treatment showed almost no increase after the initial dyeing time of 10min; further, there was hardly any difference in the cases with and without protein pre-treatment. 5. In case of protein pre-treatment fabrics, the washing fastness was level 2. The dry cleaning fastness showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.34 no.5
• /
• pp.283-292
• /
• 1996

This study examines the character of "Tencel" named as Ecology Fiber and investigates the fitness of it as the textile and the satisfaction in dress when its fastness is compared with that of Rayon classified into Celulose textile. Dye experiment selected 100% Tencel, Rayon for the samples, which were dyed into the direct dye and Turky Blue and Blue of the rective dye and were washed twelve times by the automatic washer. After that, the dye experiment examines the light, laundering, perspiration, rubbing and the composite fastness of the perspiration and hight in the lists of the dye fastness. The results are as follows: 1. The experiment of the color fastness, especially in T-blue of the direct dyestuff, requiring the twelve times-repeatedly-washing by the detergent says that the color fastness of Tencel is superior to that of the cellulose textile ; Rayon. 2. The experiment of the light fastness says that the fastness of Tencel is superior to that of Rayon. 3. The experiment of the laundering fastness says that all of Tencel, Rayon shows the excellent result in the direct dye than in the reactive dye. 4. The experiment of the rubbing fastness says that although Tencel, Rayon show the remarkable result in the desiccant experiment than in the humid one, the rubbing fastness of Tencel is superior to that of others. 5. The experiment of perspiration fastness says that Tencel, Rayon have the closely tightened tendency not to be altered through the acid and alkali perspirations. 6. The experiment of the composite fastness of perspiration and light indicates that the artifical perspirations, though the light lets the fastness of textiles weeken, do very slightly make them loosen, which does not offer the outstanding result. This whole result show that the fastness of Tencel is superior to that of Rayon. The Korean Fiber Enterprise in clothing should make the new and ecological fiber "Tencel" by means of the large amount of investment, and the technique of handing and controlling about it, considering that the dangerous needle of environmental pollution has been slackening the close-related ecological knots of the global environment. global environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.242-248
• /
• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.