• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.489-499
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• 2022

This paper proposes a numerical optimization method to design the mesoscale architecture of textile composite for simultaneously enhancing mechanical and thermal properties, which compete with each other making it difficult to design intuitively. The base cell of the periodic warp and fill yarn system is served as the design space, and optimal fibre yarn geometries are found by solving the optimization problem through the proposed method. With the help of homogenization method, analytical formulae for the effective material properties as functions of the geometry parameters of plain-woven textile composites were derived, and they are used to form the inverse homogenization method to establish the design problem. These modules are then put together to form a multiobjective optimization problem, which is formulated in such a way that the optimal design depends on the weight factors predetermined by the user based on the stiffness and thermal terms in the objective function. Numerical examples illustrate that the developed method can achieve reasonable designs in terms of fibre yarn paths and geometries.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.9-18
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• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.84-97
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• 2017

Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.891-900
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• 2001

The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.spc3
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• pp.243-249
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• 2006

There are many CAD commercial systems such as fabric design CAD for fabric designers and pattern design CAD including visual wearing system for garment designers. But there is no fabric design system for weaving factory, so the data base system related to the fabric design for weaving factory is needed. Therefore, in this study, as a preliminary study of the data base system for fabric design, easy decision of warp and weft densities according to the various yarn count, weave constructions and materials were surveyed through analysis of design plan for nylon and polyester fabrics from wearing factories.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2009

This research was made to manufacture the fabric for interior uses by spinning a low melting mono 4 denier PET staple fiber with a soluble 1.4 denier fine PET fiber. The blended yarn has a thickness ranging from 10's to 14's, and the soluble PET fine fiber was dissolved to make a pore in the polymer. Thereby a snap property was decreased and a resilience property was improved to be suitable for a functional synthetic leather. In order to attain the optimum condition, a mechanical property according to fineness, and mixing ratio of low melting polymer, warp density, weft density and blending ratio, and a heat contraction ratio according to blending ratio were experimented. The warp density, 220 T/inch of fine denier PET and the weft density, 64 T/inch of thick denier PET were generated to 4/4 both twill weave fabric having constant tensile property and thickness.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.1141-1145
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• 2005

This paper proposes a robust tension control algorithm for the let-off and take-up system driven by servo motor which is robust to disturbance and tension variation by using SVR(Support Vector Regression). Quality of textile goods in fiber manufacturing process highly depends on control of let-off, take-up and tension which are essential for constant tension control of yarn and textile fabrics and correct length of them. The physical properties of textile fabrics are very sensitive to several factors(temperature, humidity, radius change of warp beam etc.) which result in tension change. Rapid development of fiber manufacture machine for higher productivity requires control system for let-off, take-up and tension for robustness to sharp tension-variation and quick response. The validity and the usefulness of the proposed algorithm are thoroughly verified through numerical simulation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.585-590
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• 2006

In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.474-480
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to prepare the hardness of polyester(PET) fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of bicomponent fiber and to describe the change of physical properties of thermal bonded PET fabrics. The PET fabrics were prepared with regular PET fiber as warp and bicomponent fiber as weft. The bicomponent fiber of sheath-core type were composed with a regular PET core and low melting PET sheath. The thermal bonding of PET fabric was carried out in pin tenter from 120 to $195^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 60 seconds. In this study, we investigated the physical properties and melting behavior of PET fiber and the effect of the temperature of the pin tenter on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties. Melting peak of warp showed the thermal behavior of general PET fiber. However, melting peak of weft fiber(bicomponent fiber) showed the double melting peak. The thermal bonding of the PET fabric formed at about temperature of lower melting peak. The optimum thermal bonding conditions for PET fabrics was applied at $190{\sim}195^{\circ}C$ for 60seconds by pin tenter. On the other hand, the tensile strength of the PET fabric decreased with an increasing temperature of thermal bonding.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.