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중국 소수민족 이족의 채대 (A Study on the Traditional Sash of‘She’Ethnic Group in China)

  • 김성희
    • 복식
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    • 제39권
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    • pp.59-77
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    • 1998
  • This paper is focused on the traditional sash weaving handicraft of‘She’ethnic group, which is located in Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Guangdong province of China. This research is main-ly based on the field work, analyzed and inter-preted the traditional sash in systematic and reasoned way. The summary of this study are as follows : 1. On its technological aspect, weaving structure of the traditional sash is made of warp rod backed weaving. The used tool is primitive one but the weaving process includes scientific method. 2. From the social-cultural point of view, the sash ha been the symbol of love towards her lover. Every woman of this group had taken training for this sash weaving from a child. 3. On its ethnological aspect, it has been long history and has interchanged with other ethnic group like Miao, Han and also Okinawa country of Japan. The pattern inside this sash are almost looks like characters, but they are not Chinese characters whereas are the inde-pendent code of‘She’ group and have been inherent from ancestors and which will be tran-smitted to their posterity. These independent code of‘She’group are the traditional message to their later generation implicating their natural circumstances, human relationship, ethnic myth, spirit etc. 4. I recognize that the pattern inside the sash is defined as the communicative code and in comparison to language, it is more repetition and less apparent as close code. Nowadays China has been developed es-pecially in the economical fields rapidly. Under the circumstances traditional weaving culture of ethnic groups has been facing a crisis of disappearance, which will be a great loss for the country as well as the human beings. For this reason, I emphasize that it is very immediate to make co-researches into the material culture of Chinese ethnic groups.

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종자결정을 활용한 다결정 규소 잉곳 내의 구조적 결함 규명 (Structural defects in the multicrystalline silicon ingot grown with the seed at the bottom of crucible)

  • 이아영;김영관
    • 한국결정성장학회지
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    • 제24권5호
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    • pp.190-195
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    • 2014
  • 방향성 응고법으로 잉곳을 성장시킬 때 발생하는 온도 구배에 의해 잉곳 내에 결함이 생성되고 잔류 응력이 남게 된다. 이 결함과 잔류 응력은 잉곳의 성장 조건에 따라 달라지며, 웨이퍼의 특성에 큰 영향을 미칠 수 있다. 성장 속도의 변화에 상관 없이 대부분의 잉곳에서는 하부 영역에 비해 상부 영역에서 결정립과 쌍정경계의 크기가 작았으며, 결정립계뿐만 아니라 결정립 내에도 전위 밀도가 높았다. 이것은 상부 영역에서 성장 중에 받는 열 응력이 하부 영역보다 크다는 것을 암시한다. 두 잉곳 간의 차이를 보았을 때에는 성장 속도가 느린 잉곳에서 전위 밀도가 감소하였으며, 웨이퍼의 평탄도, 뒤틀림, 휨, 절단자국이 낮게 측정되었다. 따라서 다결정 성장 공정에서는 냉각 속도가 결함이나 잔류 응력의 발생에 미치는 영향이 크며, 그로 인하여 웨이퍼의 특성이 달라지는 것을 알 수 있었다.

파일 니트의 복합 후가공 기술에 의한 고품위 침장제품 개발에 관한 연구 - 원사 종류에 따른 원단의 물리적 특성 고찰을 중심으로 - (Development of Hi-Quality Bedding Items by Multi-Finishing System of Pile Knitted Fabrics - Physical Properties of Textile according to Yarn Types -)

  • 손은종;황영구;박신웅;최윤선;정성훈
    • 한국염색가공학회지
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    • 제29권4호
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    • pp.231-238
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    • 2017
  • There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

중국(中國) 명대(明代) 복식(服飾)의 선에 관한 연구(硏究) (A Study on Seon of the Ming(明) Dynasty Costume)

  • 이상은
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제6권1호
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    • pp.97-109
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    • 1997
  • Sean means a narrow cloth added to the edge of costume or cushion. At the beginning, Seon was originated to prevent from fraying warp of cloth or wearing out of cloth. However, with the progress of clothing culture, it is used to satisfy the human desire of decoration and enhance the function of costume. The Seon appeared on costumes of Ming dynasty was simple compared to that of the period preceeding it. The position of Seon was mostly at neckline, end of sleeves and hemline. The width of Seon also was quite monotonous and lacks of varieties. The patterns of Seon were limited to ax, cloud and dragon and cloud and chinese phoenix. And the colors used were also limited to four colors, namely Blue, Red Crimson and Black. In Ming dynasty, the same colors of Seon as those of the costume were more preferably used, while different colors of Seon were used in the previous era. The reason why Seon in Ming dynasty show simple design and use the same colors as those of the costume was due to Ming dynasty's desire to represent and to enhance her castic political structure. The need for class distinction was expressed through the pattern rather than the colors of the costumes themselves. While, in Ming dynasty, Bo(補) which was attached to the breast and the shoulders was used to represent the social class because it could be easily distinguished. In Ming dynasty, to stress Bo and to make Seon less conspicuous, Seon became simple and the colors of Seon were same as those of the costumes avoiding strong contrast in style and colors.

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백제 관모에 사용된 직물 연구 (A Study of the Fabrics Used for the Official Hats in Baekje Dynasty)

  • 백윤미
    • 복식
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    • 제59권3호
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    • pp.82-95
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    • 2009
  • The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

스트레치 직물의 역학적 특성 및 봉제성능 평가 (Evaluation of Tailorability and Mechanical Properties of Stretch Fabrics)

  • 이환덕;성수광;권헌선
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제2권2호
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    • pp.150-158
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    • 2000
  • This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

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PET, Tencel, Cotton MVS 혼방사로 제직된 침구용 직물의 성능평가 (Bedding Fabric Performance Using Polyester, Tencel and Cotton MVS Blended Spun Yarns)

  • 사아나;이정순
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제41권1호
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    • pp.17-27
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    • 2017
  • This study evaluated the performance of bedding fabrics consisting of warp (150d/144f, polyester) and weft (polyester, Tencel and cotton MVS blended spun yarn) with blend ratio of weft. We measured electrostatic propensity, moisture properties, pilling properties and mechanical properties of the fabrics for this study. F-P fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. However, tensile properties and electrostatic propensity were relatively inferior to other characteristic values. Significant static electricity may make F-P fabric uncomfortable. F-P7C3 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Static electricity may make F-P7C3 fabric uncomfortable; in addition, F-P5C5 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Rough and stiff hand feel were expected to increase because tensile properties decreased and surface properties increased. F-C fabric showed outstanding pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. However, it showed inferior moisture control properties. F-P5T4C1 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties, pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. Several properties are outstanding; however, the hand feels are very rough and stiff from bending. The water evaporation and static electricity increased with increasing polyester content. As the content of cotton increased, tensile properties were improved. However, water evaporation and static electricity decreased. The addition of Tencel increased the thickness and compression energy so that it exhibited a soft characteristic upon compression and an excellent moisture control properties, but the surface became somewhat coarse.

쌍끌이 중층트롤어업의 연구 ( IV ) ( a Study on the Midwater Pair Trawling ( IV )

  • 장충식;이병기
    • 수산해양기술연구
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    • 제32권1호
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    • pp.7-15
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    • 1996
  • Full scale experiment was carried out in the southern sea of Korea to compare some important factors tested in the model experiment. The results obtained can be summarized as follows ; 1. The changing aspect of mouth performance of the full scale net was almost coincided with the results obtained by the model experiment. The vertical opening(H) and the opening area(S) can be expressed as a function of the towing velocity(V) as H=48.78. $e^0.38V$(unit: m, k't) S= 1,443 .$e^-0.25V$(unit: $m^2V$, k't) 2. The changing aspect of working depth of the full scale net was almost coincided with the results obtained by the model experiment. The depth(D) can be expressed as a function of the towing velocity(V) and the warp length(L) as D=92.49.$V^1.37$(unit: m, k't, L= 150m) D= 12.07+0.32. L (unit: m, V=2k't) [)= - 7.90+0.22 . L (unit: m, V=3k't) 3. Some problems were found to operate A - type full scale net by common bottom pair trawlers. The problems can be summarized as follows; (1) Entangling of wing and square head ropes while net casting.(2) Man power needed and time spent for net hauling by common bottom trawlers increased considerably.( 3) Tearing of nettings caused by over -load of tension and entangling of net pendant while net hauling. To solve these problems, the trawlers are favorable to be equipped with variable pitch propeller and llet drum. While the net is favorable to be constructed with trifurcated net pendant in stead of quadrifurcated net pendant used at present.

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새바다호에서 사용하는 트로올그물의 유체저항에 관하여 (Hydrodynamic Resistance of Some Trawl Nets Being Used by M/S Saebada)

  • 김진건
    • 한국수산과학회지
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    • 제17권1호
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 1984
  • 어구의 전저항에서 전개판과 끌줄의 항력을 뺀 나머지를 트로올 그물의 유체저항이라 보고, 그물의 유체저항과 연계상의 요소 및 예망속도와의 관계를 R_N=k\frac{d}{l}abv^n 라고 표현할때, 새바다호에서 사용하고 있는 각종 그물에 대한 k와 n의 값을 구한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 6폭짜리 그물에 2가닥의 그물목줄을 쓰는 형(A형)과 8폭짜리 그물에 3가닥의 그물목줄을 쓰는 형(B형)은 예망속도가 1.8m/sec 이상일때 k는 11, n는 1.8이었다. 2. 10폭짜리 그물에 3가닥의 그물목줄을 쓰는 형(C형)은 예망속도가 1.8m/sec이하일 때는 k는 12, n는 1.3이며, 예망속도가 1.8m,/sec 이상일 때 k는9, n는 1.9이였다. 3. 10폭짜리 그물에 4가닥의 그물목줄을 쓰는 형(D형)은 예망속도가 1.8m/sec 이하일 때는 k는 16, n는 1.0이고, 예망속도가 1.8m/sec 이상일 때는 k는9, n는 1.9이었다.

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전평삭처리(前平削處理)가 물참나무의 건조속도(乾燥速度)와 건조결함(乾燥缺陷)에 미치는 영향(影響) (Effect of presurfacing on drying rate and drying defect of Quercus grosseserrata BI.)

  • 한규성;정희석
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • 제14권4호
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    • pp.29-39
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    • 1986
  • To investigate the effect of presurfacing, both 25mm rough and pre surfaced oak boards (Quercus grosseserrata BI.) were dried in the same dry kiln condition. Drying curves, drying strains and drying defects of rough and presurfaced boards were compared. The results obatained are as follows. 1. Average drying rate of rough and presurfaced boards from green to 10% M.C. was 0.276%/hr. and 0.284%/hr., respectively. 2. At the early stage of drying, in case of rough boards, maximum tensile strain of outer slices was $-24.2{\times}10^{-4}$mm/mm and maximum compressive strain of innermost slices was $13.0{\times}10^{-4}$mm/mm, and in case of pre surfaced boards, maximum tensile strain of outer slices was $-14.5{\times}10^{-4}$mm/mm and maximum compressive strain of innermost slices was $28.1{\times}10^{-4}$mm/mm. And in both cases, stress reversal occurred at about 40% M.C.. 3. Maximum surface checking appeared at about 40% M.C.. Of the 10 rough boards. 6 hoards contained surface checks, but presurfaced boards did not contained surface checks after drying. And the results of end checking were similar to those of surface checking. But, honeycomb was not found in both cases. 4. Board shrinkage. warp and casehardening of presurfaced boards were similar to those of rough boards. But, collapse of prsurfaced boards was less than that of rough boards.

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