• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.199-209
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• 1991

In this paper, the fabrics for Korean folk clothes(KFC) undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the mechanical properties of the specimen were measured using KES-F system in order to evaluated the end-use performance of fabrics for KFC. And also, the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC were measured by shirley crease recovery tester. 78 different kinds of commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for KFC were used for this study. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical properties and the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC. Furthermore, these changes in dimensional stability, mechanical properties and handle of fabrics for KFC were discussed in comparison with those values for silk fabrics and polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable increase are observed in shrinkage of the fabrics for KFC about repeated laundering, but dull increase are observed in shrinkage after 10 cycles of the repeated laundering. On the other hand, slack extend are observed in dimensions after 20 cycles of the repeated laundering. The shrinkage of fabrics for KFC after 10 cycles of the lundering showed that the silk fabrics are $1.74{\pm}0.33\%$ (warp direction) and $1.35{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction) and the polyester fabrics are $1.45{\pm}0.22\%$ (warp direction) and $1.25{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction). 2. Except for tensile property, these changes in mechanical properties of fabrics for KFC by laundering have $\pm$ 16 range of bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness & weight as compared with before laundering. Particularly, the LT and RT about $1\~3$ cycles of the repeated laundering showed remarkable decrease. And SMD, WC, T & W of fabrics for KFC by the laundering were more increased than one for original fabrics. But B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS were decreased more than one for original fabrics. 3. 'Stiffness', 'Anti-drape', 'Crispness' and 'Scroop' hand values decrease and'Fullness & softness', 'Flexibility & softness' hand values increase with repeated laundering. 4. Remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about $1\~5$ cycles of the repeated lundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycles of repeated laundering. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC have negative(-) correlation with LT, RT, G, RC and MMD, This fact implies that the smaller these values, the larger the crease recovery. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC has a high degree of correlation with the mechanical properties such as shearing, compression, surface property. And also, the crease recovery are expected by measuring the mechanical properties such as G, 2HG, 2HGS, RC, WC, LC, MIU, MMD and SMD, according to the obtained regression equation.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.77-86
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• 2007

Installation damage of 3 types of geogrids was evaluated with compaction condition by laboratory tester. This experimental was in accordance with ENV ISO 10722-1. First, soil distribution and water content were conducted. And then we changed cyclic loading time and type of geogrids as a factor of installation damage. The samples are woven, warp-knitted, welded type of 6, 8, 10T. This study aims to give an insight into the relationships between installation damage and cyclic loading time. The result of studies was that strength of the damaged geogrids can be closely correlated with the time of loading cycles. Especially, welded type shows slower slope than two types of geogrids due to coating materials. That means welded type is coated with PP (Polypropylene), but the other two types of geogrids are coated with PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride). To confirm another factor different method was performed. The size of soil was used between 9.5 mm and 23.5 m to compare initial experimental. Cyclic loading compaction is taken 200 times before installation test and the reason is that the reduction factor of this case by installation damage was higher than other compaction loading conditions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.51-58
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• 2015

In this study, we developed an automated non-contact thickness measurement machine that continuously and precisely measures the thickness and warp of a PCB product using a laser sensor. The system contains a measurement part to measure the thickness in real time automatically according to the set conditions with an alignment supply unit and unloading unit to separate OK and NG products. The measurement machine was utilized to evaluate the performance at each step to minimize measurement error. At the zero setting for the initial setup, the standard deviation of the 216 samples was determined to be $5.52{\mu}m$. A measurement error of 0.5mm and 1.0mm as a standard sample in the measurement accuracy assessment was found to be 2.48% and 2.28%, respectively. In the factory acceptance test, the standard deviation of 1.461mm PCB was measured as $28.99{\mu}m$, with a $C_{pk}$ of 1.2. The automatic thickness measurement machine developed in this study can contribute to productivity and quality improvement in the mass production process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.241-249
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• 2011

Cotton fabrics was treated with persimmon juice by padding and their dyeability and functionality were assessed including antibacterial activity and deodorization ratio. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. With larger number of padding, the dyed fabrics showed deeper red-yellow colors, which had low brightness and high chromatic colors. The dyed cotton fabrics had a perspiration fastness of 4~5 rating, a rubbing fastness of 3~4 rating, and a washing fastness of 4 rating, As the number of padding and exposed time to sunlight or UV light increase, the values of K/S and ${\Delta}E$ increased and the colors became much deeper gradually. The color development had completed about 70 hours exposure to UV. Among the light sources, the dyed fabrics exposed to UV light showed deeper yellow-red color than those of exposed to sunlight. The cotton fabrics treated with premordants like Al, Cr, Cu, and Sn revealed strong yellow colors, especially the fabrics treated with Fe mordant showed greenish red-yellow colors. As the padding times of dyeing with persimmon juice increased, stiffness and water repellent property were enhanced in warp and weft directions, respectively. Also, the dyed fabrics have good antibacterial activity and deodorization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.108-112
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• 2016

Silk has been used extensively in textile applications because of its good luster and feel. However, the low elongation and elastic recovery of silk has limited its use in a wider variety of textile applications. In this study, silk textile samples were made with a highly twisted silk/polyurethane core-spun yarn. They were immersed in water and dried at different temperatures, and the effect of treatment temperature on the mechanical properties of the silk textile was examined. It was found that the water temperature strongly affected the morphology and mechanical properties of the silk textile, whereas the drying temperature did not. As the water temperature was increased, the weft silk yarn became tangled and the interval between warp yarns decreased, resulting in shrinkage of the silk textile. When the silk textile was immersed in water at high temperature (i.e., $100^{\circ}C$), the elongation of the textile increased eight-fold as compared to an untreated silk textile. The maximum elastic recovery ratio of the silk textile was 96.7%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.828-837
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• 2015

The results of the analysis of dyed rayon fabrics treated with persimmon juice by padding are as follows. Rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by a padding mangle for the development of dyeability. The merits of padding-based dyeing were easier color reproduction (versus traditional hand dyeing) of hard to obtain colors and color fastness to light and laundering. The add on weight increased with the number of padding times, and the color of the dyed fabrics had red-yellow colors with low brightness and high chromatic colors. Properties of fabrics treated with persimmon juice were: $2^{nd}$ level of light resistance, $4^{th}-5^{th}$ perspiration fastness levels, rubbing fastness, and $3^{rd}-4^{th}$ washing fastness levels. Dyed fabrics exposed to UV light have a deep yellow-red color that increased lightness and darken when exposed to sunlight. Rayon fabrics of a treated premordant indicated strong yellow colors, especially fabrics with Fe mordant indicated greenish red-yellow colors. The direction of the weft and warp increased and improved water-repellent qualities that increased with the number of dyeing padding times and persimmon juice; however, there was less anti-crease resistance. In addition, fabrics had good antibacterial activity and deodorization.