Nakseonjae in Changdeokgung Palace was established at The King Hunjong's 13rd year (1847), the mid-19th century. It was constructed for own rests of King Hunjong and the residence of Kyungbin (king's concubines), and is showing features of upper-class houses from several points such as rustic architectural types by getting out of authoritative aspects as king's shelter space within the palace, block and floor distribution that separated spaces for men and women, simplicity in structures and styles, and non-colorful painting etc. This study aims at tracing on which architectural types did the upper-class houses within Hanyang (modern Seoul) at late Joseon Dynasty have and what was characteristics of Nakseonjae. The resemblance between Nakseonjae and the upper-class houses was very little differences from scale aspects, and floor plan shapes of Anchae (women's quarters) and Sarangchae (men's quarters) were followed basic common styles. Also, resemblance could be confirmed in the structural styles too. Characteristics of Nakseonjae are showing apparent differences from clearance compositions such as hall configuration etc. Nakseonjae was king's dwelling place, and spaces for house's collateral functions such as kitchen, stable, and warehouse etc together with shrine were unnecessary, and such places were substituted into servants' quarters for assisting the Royal family. In detailed structural styles, column's size was larger 3cm or more than the upper-class houses, and its height was higher to the degree of 30~60cm. Besides, formality as king's shelter space was raised more in decorating aspects, and Nakseonjae was implemented by getting architectural influences from Qing Dynasty of China. This study induced features of Hanyang's upper-class houses at the 19th century by supplementing distribution and space configurations at existing cases of Seoul and Gyeonggi area together with house diagrams having been collected by Gaokdohyung (site and floor plan) of Jangseogak Library, and confirmed resemblances and differences with Nakseonjae, that is, features of Nakseonjae. Through the result, this study judges a fact that architecture of Nakseonjae seemed to be affected from conveniences of upper-class houses within Hanseong, and also architectural styles and distribution types of Nakseonje would give influences to the upper-class houses.
This comparative study on the confucian characteristics of the space for men on the upper-class house took two approaches. Firstly, even though Korea and China accepted same Confucianism, they developed their own Confucian cultures and differentiated house types. Therefore, the process of developing various type of house can be observed as to adopting Confucianism. Secondly, identification of each country can be appeared by looking into the house developing process. Preceding studies about traditional houses of Korea and China usually focused on style analysis. However, this study approaches to house arrangement through understanding the base of each culture and people.
This study is focused on a space for man in upper classes house that is one of appeared characteristics as Korea, China and Japan imported Confucianism become common cultural base in these countries. Because a space for man in these countries has the same nature represented as a typical space in a upper classes house, and this space is differentiated by regional features, a way of thinking, a way of life and social structure as well, these characteristics are compared one another. Import of Confucianism influenced formation of a upper classes house and the spaces of the house are divided by generation, sexuality and classes. A space for man become a center of the house as well as a space for reception in accordance with patriarchism because this space stands for hierarchy of the house. A space for man of each country, Korea, China and Japan, has differences; that is, Chinese Jeongbang is used as a space for family as well as for guests; Korean Sarangchae is for only men and used as a reception space; Japanese Zasiki is used just for reception. These differences among countries are caused by owner's class, a civil officer or a military officer, and this class differentiated the characteristics of reception for guest. Even though the these countries take the space for man for meeting, Chinese is for family, Korean is for ancestors and Japanese is for guests.
It is commonly known that upper class house in Chosun Dynasty has characteristics of connecting space in combination with 'Chae' and 'Madang'. But living territory of traditional residence is connected each other by means of the necessity of dwelling life. So, it can be a fragmentary understanding about traditional houses to consider it as connecting space only from the viewpoint of visual perception. Residential space in later Chosun Dynasty is affected by practical life-style rather than building principle of 'Confucianism' due to the erosion of the caste system and the spread of the modern residential culture. So, it is necessary to consider dwelling life at that time in order to understand spatial characteristics of the residences. Researcher made an assumption that these characteristics were observed in the emerging upper class houses which appear in the process of change of the caste system rather than the traditional upper class houses. The researcher investigated connecting space from 'Bakat-ma-dang' to An-ma-dang of the emerging upper class houses in Gyong-gi province. The goal of this study is to find the properties of connecting space related to dwelling life of the emerging upper class houses in Gyong-gi Province. With this study, the followings are the characteristics of connecting space in emerging upper class houses in later Chosun Dynasty. First, 'An-ma-dang(Courtyard)' comes into close contact with 'Bakat-chae(Outer quarters)' which accommodate the complex functions, 'An-ma-dang' plays an mediating role between 'An-chae' and 'Bakat-chae' Second, 'Bakat-chae' generally encases 'An-ma-dang' which is central territories of dwelling life, and the men's area of 'Bakat-chae' considerably has opening space towards the outside. Third, 'Anmadang' plays an mediating role of male's and female's living territory, and it plays an important role in connecting space where labor forces are concentrated.
This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.
Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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v.13
no.5
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pp.2189-2198
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2012
This study was designed to measure the difference in health-related quality of life (HRQOL) among social classes and explore the factors that may explain it. Study subjects were 7,992 Korean adults aged 20-69 from the 4th (2007-2009) Korea National Health and Nutrition Examination Surveys data. We described mean value of EQ-5D index as a HRQOL by class and performed hierarchical multiple regression analysis to find the factors. The result was as follows. In the distribution of EQ-5D index level among social classes, new middle class (class II) had the highest score (0.966 in men and 0.955 in women); upper and middle-upper class (class I) 0.965 in men and 0.936 in women; working class (class IV) 0.958 in men and 0.936 in women; old middle class (class III) 0.955 in men and 0.932 in women; low class (class VI) 0.941 in men and 0.908 in women; and rural self-management class (class V) the lowest score (0.918 in men and 0.866 in women). In men, chronic disease, job stress, education and income level were found to make the difference in the health-related quality of life among social classes; in women, those factors and health behavior explained the difference. In conclusion, the lower social class has lower HRQOL. Except for education and income level, chronic disease may be the major factor to explain the difference in the health-related quality of life among social classes.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.2
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pp.115-125
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2007
A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.
This study held a questionnaire for men in their 60s or above to analyze the market research of slacks, understand the characteristics of their lower body types, and provide the basic data for the slacks pattern-making fitting the body types of senior citizens. The findings are as follows. According to the results of a questionnaire, elderly men preferred order-made slacks for better fitness, but they favored ready-made owing to the matter of prices. In particular, the girth of waist was the most considered when purchasing. However, as most customers tended to repair slacks length and the waist part, their unsatisfaction with sizes was rather high. In body measurements, elderly men had higher variable coefficients or more individual differences in the items of thickness and angles than in those of height, length, and girth. Factor analysis revealed 5 front and 6 side factors. According to the results of front-side somatotype analysis, pimento-flat, trapezoid-flat, and bent-flat types require narrower pattern designs in down-upper width than the middle-aged class. In addition, pimento-protruded hip and straight-jar types need to be designed in the same amount as in the middle-aged class. Based on the questionnaire results, down-upper length as 1cm above real dimensions was analyzed to have superior sense of wearing.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.14
no.3
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pp.93-109
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2012
The purpose of this study is to examine the modern men's fashion coordination to see the image in the center of TV dramas in terms of Habitu that is formed within hierarchy and class. The subjects range is included fashion style, color, accessories, hairstyle and appearance. 950 pictures used in the analysis sheet. In research methods, content analysis and basic statistics were used. The results of this study were as follows. First, the hierarchy image formed by Habitus is significant difference. The upper layer is coordinating elite luxurious and prestigious image of the fashion styles. The middle layer is coordinating neat and capable image. The lower layer does not care about the appearance and image appearing weary life is coordinating. Second, the class image formed by Habitus, CEO often interests in fashion image coordination. Senior executive is represented clean and luxurious image. General white color dresses in a suite such as office look. Blue color does not care about the fashion coordination and is expressed an easy dress for labor. Architects of the unstructured free-spirited image is represented. Physician and resident physician dress in shirts, no pattern tie, pants, robe. And they is coordinating neat and tidy attire to represent professional and reliable image.
This paper examines Haniwa costume in the Goboon period of Japan. The results are as follows. 1. Haniwa costume consisted of two pieces, the upper one and the lower one. Man wore Jacket and Pants, woman wore Jacket and Skirt ; besides, they wore several ornaments such as hats, necklaces, earings, bracelets. 2. When it was introduced, two-piece costume signified, symbolically, the authority of the chieftain and his near men wore it. 3. Before it was introduced, their proper costume had been the same kind of costume as Whoengpok-costume and Gwandu-costume, which was the primitive costume in the South countries. That costume was fit both for the hot and wet nature of Japan and for the working lower-class, so it was continuously worn by the lower-class after two-piece costume had been introduced. 4. In the Goboon period of Japan, a unified government with the class ruling was established for the first time. Thus, this social order was reflected in costume as a whole, and costume had such class-oriented features.
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