• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.127-139
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• 2019

Up-cycling has evolved from its original form of the simple recycling of waste, into an industry of its own that has been gaining momentum. In many developed industries, up-cycling is increasingly seen as an 'environmentally-friendly way of production and ethical way of consumption'. However, an examination of the designs of branded up-cycled products suggests that there is a need for product development fueled by further research on materials. The purpose of this study is to introduce various production methods that can overcome the shortcomings of using waste material and Korean motifs for use in product development, which ultimately contribute to enhancing the potential variety and character of up-cycled products. In order to do so, the up-cycling industry was examined to define key concepts, domestic and overseas markets were surveyed, and case analyses were conducted on domestic and foreign up-cycling brands. In addition, after tracking how leather is discarded and accumulated as waste and then collecting the discarded leather, the properties of the material were analyzed. A study of Korean motifs was followed by the concept summary, and upcycling design expressions that exemplify Korean images were identified. The following two novel methods were used to create six up-cycled bags using collected discarded leather. First, lucky bags and moon pots were selected from various Korean motifs in order to use motifs with identifiable features. Secondly, different variations of cutting and attachment methods were used, including iron mold production methods and presses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.86-100
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• 2019

This study analyzed the characteristics of vegan fashion produced by H&M and ZARA with respect to materials, design, development, production, and marketing to create social value. The results of this study are significant because they can be used as a reference to develop a vegan fashion market. Regarding the research method, this study assessed the concept and status of veganism through a literature review and examined vegan fashion case studies by analyzing official websites and media content. The study's scope covers the period from 2005, when H&M was the first SPA brand to create a vegan product line, until 2019. The characteristics of Global SPA's vegan fashion were as follows. Regarding materials, alternative materials were developed and an expanded use of organic materials was implemented. Regarding design, development was achieved through design collaboration and upcycling. In terms of production, an animal welfare policy was adopted and a sustainable supply chain was established. Marketing employed a campaign aimed at encouraging increased consumer participation. The findings regarding the social value of H&M and Zara's vegan fashion were as follows. First, a cyclical economy was realized through circular recycling in the entire process of resource selection, production, and waste disposal. Second, because product consumption indicated the importance of ethical consumption and sustainable consumer participation, corporate financial activities were created based on shared values to accomplish the social outcome. Third, collaborations with luxury brands or vegan fashion designers built a collaborative ecosystem in which vegan fashions were released and consumer participation campaigns were implemented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.192-208
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• 2016

Due to the paradigm shift in fashion industry, its contribution to social activities and social enterprises' practice of ethical fashion has been on the rise lately. The surveillance and regulations of international community have increased in light of the betterment of working conditions and protection of the rights, and corporate social responsibility has been emphasized through consumers' interest in ethical consumption. In this regard, the fashion social enterprises' responsible and ethical management can both boost the trust in business and value-added. The study aims to propose feasible methods by exploring ways to induce support from central and local governments, which will lead to the activation of future fashion social enterprises and paradigms shift of consumers's perception and value. The sustainability of social enterprises requires management line or policies that consider social, environmental, economic, and political aspects of virtuous cycle, differentiated internally or externally. Fashion social enterprises also need ethic management and social responsibility management that are distinctive from general fashion enterprises. Thus, they will not be sustainable or differentiated unless entrepreneurial faith and role is not clear. Education and continuous promotion including upcycling are critical to build consumer base as they can make consumers spend ethically and recognize social enterprises. In addition, social education and public relations need to take place in order to internalize consumer pattern. The goal of sustainable corporate social activity is to change the awareness and become social investment that returns some profits to the society as members in line with reviewing corporate image. This can lead to establishing the foundation of securing a big comsumer market and winning the trust of the consumer's through corporate social responsibility and investment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.92-108
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop a free semester program using sustainable materials therefore improving the clothing & textiles section of the middle school textbook and the systematic and in-depth sustainable fashion education based on theme selection activity, as one of free semester system activities in the middle school. Our analysis on the programs, which was performed from 2018 to 2019, showed that the clothing & textiles programs were majorly focused making simple household items through basic needlework and knitting. The programs that related to the sustainable fashion education were environmental programs associated with other textbooks, or mainly included simple upcycling and were mainly operated as arts & physical education or club activities, rather than theme selection programs. According to results from a questionnaire survey on teachers incharge of the system, they had an intention of starting sustainable fashion education program or clothing & textiles section but failed due to low number of participants, practice cost, and time burden. Based on our analysis, this study proposed a 17-session based free semester program that includes the understanding of the sustainable fashions concept, classification of sustainable materials and systematic and stepwise practice in association with the middle school textbook clothing & textile section. The teaching materials developed in this study are expected to be incorporated in the program that helps students understand the right concept of sustainable fashions and respond to the pending environmental issue actively and systematically.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.325-335
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• 2024

In this study, I investigated cases of operating Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) sustainable design courses based on interdisciplinary education for diverse design major students in the fashion design department. Through literature review, we examined the necessity of this course operation and analyzed the course through class design, execution, and operational results. Sustainable design courses were organized for 2nd to 4th-year students, promoting integrated learning for fashion design and various design majors to enhance interdisciplinary skills based on the in-depth study of SDGs issues. The educational content in the classes focused on the sustainable development goals achieved through upcycling design of waste PET bottle fibers developed by local industries, aiming to pursue sustainable values of designers through problem discovery and resolution. Students developed various upcycled products, evaluated metrics, and assessed satisfaction levels. Through this process, students gained an understanding of the practical value of SDGs, recognized the importance of sustainable development through design approaches for solving local issues, and acknowledged the significance of interdisciplinary education with various design majors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.64-71
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• 2019

Climate change and global warming are the biggest challenges of the current generation. Every industry has contributed to the climate change and global warming. Even the apparel industry cannot avoid the criticism regarding fast fashion and its contribution to the pollution. The transition to the decarbonized economy is in progress. All aspects of business functions are influenced by climate change. Sustainable development and climate change are closely linked, and business plays the key role in addressing and finding solutions to the challenges of climate change. Luxury brands are the trendsetters and tastemakers. They are the leaders in the fashion industry and therefore responsible for improving on sustainability as well. Even luxury business cannot avoid environmental issues. The relation between luxury and sustainability is explored with the Burberry case based on the Triple Bottom Line (TBL) framework. There are various ways for luxury brands to excel in sustainability and affect other companies' practices. The companies can incorporate the concept of sustainability in their brand stories as part of the branding process. They can also improve demand planning accuracy and produce upcycled goods. Centering on Burberry's case, this paper aims to explore the current sustainable practices of luxury business along with its future direction toward sustainable development. Its contribution and directions for both researchers and business practitioners are discussed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.