• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.111-118
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• 2004

An ocean buoy was deployed 10 km off Donghae city, Korea at a depth of 130 m to measure meteorological (air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, wind gust, wind direction, relative humidity) and oceanographic data (water properties and currents in the whole column) in real-time. The buoy recorded a maximum wind gust of 25 m/s (10 minutes' average speed of 20 m/s) and a minimum air pressure of 980 hPa when the eye of typhoon Maemi passed by near the Uljin city, Korea at 03:00 on 13 September 2003. The wave height reached maximum of 9 m with the significant wave height of 4 m at 04:00 (1 hour after the passage of Maemi). The currents measured near the surface reached up to about 100 cm/s at 13:00 (10 hours after the passage of Maemi). The mixed layer (high temperature and low salinity) thickness, which was accompanied by strong southward current, gradually increased from 20 m to 40 m during the 10 hours. A simple two layer model for the response to an impulsive alongshore wind over an uniformly sloping bottom developed by Csanady (1984) showed reasonable estimates of alongshore and offshore currents and interface displacement for the condition of typhoon Maemi at the buoy position (x=8.15 km) during the 10 hours.

• Water for future
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 1994

The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.