• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.