• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2017

The purposes of this study was to study Turkic clothing traditions as a way to shed light on cultural development via the interactions among different tribes along the Silk Road, the close correlations between the surroundings of the Turks and their costumes, and the root of Turkic culture through literature studies and empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, the Turks were nomadic equestrian tribes in the north that dominated the cold dry steppes from the $6^{th}$ to $8^{th}$ century A.D., when they expanded their influence to Dongbei, China to the east, and Turkistan (Central Asia) to the west. The Turks formed a nomadic lifestyle and culture suited to a cold dry climate, and interacted with various other tribes via the Silk Road, while exchanging and sharing different cultural aspects. Second, given that the Turkic garments constitute a two-piece style, which is a category of the basic nomadic costume of northern tribes, and that the artifact materials manifest jackets, overcoats, pants and skirts, the garments are categorized into tops and bottoms. The tops are sub-categorized into jackets and overcoats. The bottoms are sub-categorized into pants and skirts. In light of the necklines of tops, jackets have round necklines, while overcoats have V-necklines, round necklines and lapel collars. The bottoms include narrow-legged pants, wide-legged pants and closed-hem pants. Drapery skirts are worn at the waist. Third, the Turkic V-neckline overcoat is comparable to the Huns' silk overcoat, which illustrates the ethnic link between the two tribes. Also, the Turkic narrow- and wide-legged pants are consistent with the Huns' silk pants discovered in Noin Ula. The Turkic costumes are mostly tight fitting, suitable for the nomadic lifestyle in a cold, dry climate. Also, additional patches must be attached to the crotch points of pants due to the equestrian lifestyle.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.113-132
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• 2017

Several theories about the ancestry of the Khazars and the origins of the Khazar state have been suggested to date. None of them provides a comprehensive solution for the controversial data of the written sources on the early history of the Khazars. This article investigates a possible link between the title of Kagan-Bek of the Deputy Kagan of the Khazars and a similar title Ellac/Ilek of the Akatsir-Huns. This study of the title argues for statehood and political culture connections between the earliest Turkic tribes of Western Eurasia and the Khazars and Turks of Central Asia.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-24
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• 2023

The art of carpet weaving is the most habitual form of traditional art in Azerbaijan, it reflects a rich inner world and occupies a special place in the history of a national culture's development. The Azerbaijani carpet has always stood out for its plots, ornaments, compositions, and high quality and the Azerbaijani people, faithful to their spiritual values, have protected and developed it throughout the centuries. In this article, several Ganja-Gazakh-type carpets from the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum collection and their artistic and technical characteristics are discussed. Specimens of material, sacred language, and ornamentation are considered. The deepest meaning is embodied in tamga in particular. Tamga is a unique phenomenon serving as an amulet, lineage sign, and self-identification of Turkic peoples. The Gazakh carpets of the Ganja-Gazakh type cover the Gazakh region of Azerbaijan, the Borchali region of Georgia, and the Goycha Lake region of Armenia. Karapapakh Azerbaijani Turks have inhabited these areas since ancient times. Tarakama (nomads) are often equated with the name Karapapakh (black hat). One of the densely populated regions of Tarakama is Gazakh. Gazakh, Garagoyunlu, Salahli, Shikhli, Kamarli, Damirchilar, Gaymagli, Goycali, Daghkasaman, Oysuzlu, Gachagan, and pile carpets with different compositions are woven in the Gazakh carpet weaving center. Large, simple in form, step-shaped or hook-like medallions, horn-shaped patterns, animal images, and stamps with symbols of ancient Turkic tribes characterize the Gazakh carpet weaving group.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.33-50
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• 2016

The article studies the new situation in international long distance trade after the emergence of new superpower - Arab Caliphate - in Eurasian overland tracks of the Great Silk Road. The stages of Arab advancement along trade routes and outcomes of their contestation with the strong tribal confederations of Turkic nomads in Central Asia and the Caucasus are highlighted. A special focus is made upon the relationship of Arabs with Khazar Turks who have endured severe clashes with strongest army of the time in the region. Khazar kingdom survived and even expanded its control over the tracks of international trade in the western part of Eurasia. The research describes the way how trade partnership between Arabs and Turks was shaped in the aftermath of military clashes. Existing scholarly views on the role of Khazar in Silk Road are reviewed and unattended evidence of Arab sources are involved to support concluding points that Khazar state managed to consolidate various actors for maintenance of international trade such as so called Rus warriors and merchants in the west of Volga, nomadic tribes in Eurasian steppes, and Jewish trading gild named ar-rahdaniyya in Arab sources. It is asserted that Khazar state since the second half of 9th century through its decline in mid 10th century not only served as transit space for goods of exporting countries but also exported goods of its own crafts and natural resources.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.54-79
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• 2024

본 연구는 한국의 발해학계에서 박물관 전시를 인식하는 논점이 중국에만 편중되어온 공백을 메우기 위해 작성되었다. 따라서 러시아 박물관에서 개최된 발해사 전시구성 및 운영정책의 특징과 변화를 분석하여, 국가 간 발해사 이해를 넓힐 수 있는 해석과 표출에 대한 자료를 공유하고자 한다. 이에 러시아의 발해사 전시를 대표하는 아르세니예프 V.K 국립극동역사보호지구 통합박물관의 상설전시 및 기획전시를 대상으로 시론적 연구를 시도해보았다. 우선 전시구성을 살펴보면, 상설전시는 지역사의 통시적 구성으로, 제1회 및 2회 기획전시는 러시아과학원 주요 소장유물을 포함한 발해사 주제별 구성으로 기획되었다. 전시 운영정책은 박물관 운영규정, 전시 운영인력, 전시 홍보전략을 통해 살펴보았다. 다음으로 전시가 개최된 배경과 역할 변화를 살펴보기 위해, 발해사 전시 개최 분기에 따른 지역사회의 정치·사회·문화적 이슈를 검토하였다. 그 결과, 상설전시 개편분기에는 국제정상회의 개최지역에 대한 역사인식을 제고하고, 제1회 기획전시 분기에는 다양한 정책주체들에 의해 한·러 합작 문화관광 현안을 견인하였으나, 제2회 기획전시 분기에는 국내외적 외교전략 변화 등과 맞물려 홍보 및 연계행사가 활성화되지 않은 것으로 추론해보았다. 마지막으로, 전시 내러티브의 특징을 살펴보기 위해, 지역사 교과서 및 발해사 개설서를 분석틀로 삼고 전시 내용과 상호 비교해보았다. 그 결과, 시대별 내러티브에서는 교과서에서 분리되었던 말갈족과 발해국의 통합 연출이 확인된다. 주제별 내러티브 중 정치사 주제에서는 변방의 말갈족 전사 대신 발해의 중앙 관리로 연출된 변화를 파악할 수 있었다. 특히 발해 영역도는 실증적인 조사자료 축적의 중요성을 시사한다. 물질문화 주제에서는 농업·수렵을 보여주는 동식물유체 자료의 보강을 제안해보았고, 대외 관계 주제에서는 통일신라 교류와 투르크계 주민 구성을 시사하는 내러티브를 살펴보았다. 사상문화 주제에서는 고구려 국가제사의례와 관련된 내러티브가 나타나는데, 이는 한국학계에서 아직 주목하지 못했던 새로운 자료이므로 추후 논의가 필요함을 지적해보았다. 결론적으로, 본 연구는 러시아 박물관의 발해사 전시 연구에 대한 공백을 메우고, 전시가 변화해온 맥락과 전시 내러티브의 특징을 고찰하여 시사점을 제시했다는 의의가 있다.