• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.31
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• pp.103-120
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• 2010

Most of the important stone cultural heritage (National treasures and Treasures) in Korea are mainly located outdoor and considerably affected by the changes of the temperature, humidity and rainfalls. 541 of the stone cultural heritage are preserved as National treasure and Treasure. The pagodas occupy 187 remains and next 127 Buddha statues, 68 monuments, 60 stupas, and the others 74 stone cultural heritages. The shelter has been installed for one pagoda, 60 Buddha statues, 36 monuments and two stupas. The shelters are categorized in three shapes as traditional shape, modern shape, and others (tradition+modern). Approximately 100 of shelters that have constructed in traditional ways, and about nine of shelters have modern ways, and the only one has the combination shape of tradition and modern, which has been constructed since mid 1900s and repaired from the 1980s~2000s. Many researchers are studying for improvement of manners such as repairing, remodeling or removing of the shelter because problems have occured on shelters. Architectural form of traditional style of Korean timber building is respected, but it has problems on importing natural sunlight to the inside as well as ventilation and spacial problems. However, it needs to supplement policies to improve the positive roles of shelters such as prevention of artificial damage, blocking acid rain, and so on. For instance, the rock-carved Buddha Triad in Seosan, it had problems with viewing, contamination, and dew condensation on the surface. These problems decreased after dismantling the shelter, the space was made for improvement of viewing and dew condensation, and moisture problems were in better conditions. The velocity wind is an important factor in drying conditions on the surface of the rock, therefore the condition has improved after dismantling the shelter.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.70-83
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• 2013

To widen prospect of villa as Korea traditional garden, the result of the research about constructional characteristics of Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong of Yeoju Lee family at Toero-ri, Miryang-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea, is abstracted as below. Seogo-jeongsa(西皐精舍) and Sameun-jeong(三隱亭) was intended to practise retirement with sense of unity with the head residence, since Seogo-jeongsa was 340m far and sameun-jeong was 630m far away from head residence, which set within 1km. Although Seogo-jeongsa's basic prop, Sameun-jeong's timber, which are both from designer's pen name and head residence name, "Hangjae(恒齋)" and "Yongjae(庸齋)," and Hanseoam have each different exposure, it is homogeneous as space configurational side in order to optimize the gaze leading effect and appreciated domestic trees from the pond, which is center of the garden and the significant facility. Method of direction of Seogo-jeongsa's Hwalsudang(活水塘) and Sameunjeong's pond of Sameun-ji(三隱 池) gets attention by distinction. Especially, directing of 3 step water flow from behind to front and traditional pond method, called Bangji-Bangdo(方池方島), were very unique that any other place can be found. Also, the middle islet on the pond at both villa, which isn't more supper, but more for the symbolic molding that seek a stone pagoda(石假山), is more interesting directing method as considering the relationship of the 3 stone pagoda imageries on the surface of Ghwayukchon(果肉泉) At the same time, Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong shows very different characteristics from traditional villa that adopted both domestic trees and foreign trees. Particularly, it is extremely exceptional case to plant vigorous needleleaf tree, such as Chamaecyparis pisifera, C. obtusa, Pinus bungeana, P. palustris, Sciadopitys verticillata, Metasequoia glyptostroboides and Cedrus deodara, on Sameun-jeong. Moreover, adopting foreign wild needleleaf trees for landscaping trees, such as a Torreya nucifera, Taxus cuspidata, P. parviflora, and foreign landsacping trees, such as P. bungeana, Cryptomeria japonica and C. obtusa tells planting trend of the late Joseon dysnasty era. Also, as we can know from 2 Jipgyeong(集景), which is 'Seogo-jabyoung 17 young(西皐雜詠十七詠)', and 'Sameun-jeong 12 Gyoung(三隱亭十二景)' which are set on both villa, the intend to expand the garden area is strongly shown by the natural forest directing. As a result, Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong, located at Toero-li Miryang, are sharing the traditional Joseon dynasty era's custom, such as space and visual composition; however, it is different and attractive garden remains as a point of view of water directing, stone pagodas, and adopting foreign landscaping trees.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.46-53
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the functional properties of Changhoji with natural dyeing. This research would provide a basic information for interior material Changhoji. To estimate functional properties of super eight colors Changhoji, water staining, lightfastness, and floodlight color test were executed. In term of the water staining test, blue color showed the clear and other colors showed the little spot. As a result of measuring the lightfastness, Magenta color dyed with sappanwood showed the worst. But blue color dyed with indigo and Turquoise color dyed with indigo and Pagoda tree flower showed the highest. As a result of floodlight color test was no difference between sample color and floodlight color.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.120-126
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• 2015

In this study, we used various dyes from natural pigments such as tumeric, goldthread, indigo, pagoda tree flower, sappanwood, and safflower to make the Hanji wallpaper with super eight colors of yellow, orange, green, turquoise, violet, red, blue, and magenta. As a result of measuring the lightfastness, magenta dyed with sappanwood showed the worst effect, but blue dyed with only indigo showed the best effect. In terms of the spot test by water, red wallpaper dyed with safflower showed the clear spot, but blue, turquoise, and green dyed with indigo resulted in a little spot. The orange, violet, and magenta dyed with goldthread and sappanwood showed antibacterial activity, and the turquoise, green, and blue also has a little antibacterial activity. However, yellow and red didn't show the some result as expected. In the experiment for efficiency of formaldehyde removal, all Hanji wallpapers dyed with natural pigments showed the significant removal effect of formaldehyde, especially turquoise and red were the highest.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.36-46
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to manufacture colored Hanji for interior materials by combining color therapy and natural dyeing. To manufacture colored Changhoji for interior materials, seven species of dyestuff were selected as a results of preliminary natural dyeing. As mordants, 0.5% $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_20$ and 0.5% $Cu(CH_3COO)_2{\cdot}H_2O$ solution were used respectively. To estimate natural dyeing properties of Changhoji, the value of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell HV/C were measured by spectrophotometer. The super eight colors produced as follows; red from safflower, orang from goldthread and gardenia, yellow from turmeric, green and turquoise from indigo and pagoda tree flower, violet and magenta from sappanwood, and blue from indigo.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.90 no.5
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• pp.447-458
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• 2024

This study investigated the influence of scale ratio and vertical load on the seismic performance of Puzuo joints in traditional Chinese timber structures. Three low-cyclic reversed loading tests were conducted on three scaled specimens of Bujian Puzuo in Yingxian Wooden Pagoda. This study focused on the deformation patterns and analyzed seismic performance under varying scale ratios and vertical loads. The results indicated that the slip and rotational deformations of Bujian Puzuo were the primary deformations. The scale of the specimen did not affect the layer where the maximum interlayer slip occurred, but it did decrease the proportion of slip deformation. Conversely, the reducing vertical load caused the layer with the maximum slippage and the position of the damaged Dou components to shift upward, and the proportion of slip deformation increased. When the vertical load was decreased by 3.7 times, the maximum horizontal bearing capacity under positive and negative loadings, initial stiffness, and energy dissipation of the specimen decreased by approximately 60%, 58.79%, 69.62%, and 57.93%, respectively. The horizontal bearing capacity under positive loading and energy dissipation of the specimen increased by 35.63% and 131.54%, when the specimen scale was doubled and the vertical load was increased by 15 times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-114
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• 2009

In Honam province, the cultural prototype are largely unknown to the people, also the research on this subject are scarce, the artistic excellence, somewhat under evaluated, both in our country and internationally. It is imperative that we develop the modern design using this prototype. thereby apply it to many areas of cultural products. We should extend the dimension not only to the local festival but also to the mass production resulting in the commercial gains. The Unjusa Buddha festival for promoting the public relation would be greatly benefited by using the concept of the temple, the local prototype, by which we expect to create a ingenious textile design pattern, coinciding with the main purpose of this study. The ancient material around Unjusa come to be the subject of our textile design by way of selecting the most remarkable ones of heritage among the materials of Unjusa. In the long run, the harmonious contrast of both traditional and modern image were sought in this study. Designed patterns were edited using Adobe Photoshop CS3, a multi-purpose graphic program and were simulated in the towel for visual presentation. The design is of two kinds, the one is of the free style using combinations of reclining Buddha, stone Buddha, stone pagoda, and geometric patterns freely not to be standardized. The other one is mixing of lotus pattern, reclining Buddha, and geometric patterns. These designs were applied delicately on the towel, necktie and handkerchief, and the various colors were suggested by the 6 color ways. The brilliance of our traditional cultural property should be noted by these designs and I hope that this study would be a help to develop our cultural prototype and make a product of using the outstanding heritage.