• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.368-383
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to find an expression method for Korean fashion design that can have competitiveness in the global fashion market. For this, fashion specialists at home and abroad were interviewed, focusing on their opinions on the Korean motifs outlined in existing literature studies. First, aesthetic sense and expression characteristics that have appeared in existing studies on Korean art, Korean traditional costume, and Korean fashion were explored. As a result, they were categorized into: Modesty/plainness, freewheelingness, religion/custom, and humor/joke. During this process, Korean design motifs were extracted based on the aesthetic characteristic and expression method of aesthetic sense. According to the opinions on Korean design motifs and Korean fashion design works drawn from the interviews with fashion specialists at home and abroad, Changhomun was the favorite design motif to be utilized in Korean fashion design. The Korean specialists thought that visual design motifs were important, while the overseas specialists had more interest in abstract design motifs, which embody the background and story behind the motif. Regarding the fashion design associated with the Korean design motif, all specialists at home and abroad favored the design using ceramics and wrapping cloth. Regarding the choice of fashion image, Korean specialists chose the design utilizing Hangeul as the most Korean, while the foreign specialists chose designs reflecting the design motifs of Hangeul and Hanbok for women. The Korean specialists chose relatively more Korean images, while the foreign specialists chose more eastern images or other images than Korean images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.31-47
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• 2019

This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.399-406
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• 2023

Due to the increasing influence of the Korean Wave, traditional themes are emerging to the forefront of performance content development, emphasizing the necessity of applying the art of storytelling to the creative process. The purpose of this research is to examine the differentiated costume design of the Pansori ballet "Dokkaeba! Dokkaeba!," developed through the implementation of storytelling in its performance creation process. Choreographers, writers, and costume designer collaborated throughout the storytelling process from planning to content creation. This resulted in a clarified depiction of the Dokkaebi as divine beings with transcendental powers who are simultaneously friendly and familiar entities, often appearing in the form of humans and objects. Accordingly, the costume design based on this collaborative storytelling deliberately avoided the appearance of Dokkaebi reminiscent of 'Kwimyeonwa' or Japanese 'Oni', typically expressed with horns or decorations, and instead implemented novel design elements, such as fusion Hanbok with a variety of dimensionally aesthetic accessories, meaningful color contrast in modern clothing, textural elements indirectly expressing character and transmogrification, and daily clothing attire to illustrate the humanized Dokkaebi. Therefore, this study seeks to contribute to the production of new performance art showcasing the Dokkaebi by identifying the diversity of expression and direction within costume design.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.698-709
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• 2011

Wedding shops, which had been located in Jung-gu, Jongno-gu, Seodaemun-gu, and Mapo-gu in 1990, have been shown a rapid change in light of location since the year of 1995. Thus, most of shops are concentrated on Gangnam-gu in 2010. Wedding dress shops in Gangnam-gu were distributed between Kanglim Church and Apgujeong station in the early 1990s, and then moved gradually to Dosan park and then to Cheongdam-dong after passing through Hakdong intersection. Luxury image in Cheongdam-dong was the main reason for integration of wedding businesses. This intergration of shops showed the peak at the Cheongdam intersection. A motive of having come to start business in Cheongdam-dong was selected the high awareness and image in district, and was taken the ease for business-based cooperation and connection. High rent and inconvenient transportation were reasons for dissatisfaction. The business-based cooperation and connection were mostly formed through a consulting company. Level and reputation of relevant shops were important elements. Even the connective and associative shops are located the most in Cheongdam-dong followed by Nonhyeon-dong, Shinsa Apgujeong-dong in order. The cluster relationship was most noticeable in wedding studio, wedding dress, wedding consulting, and hanbok(Korean traditional clothes) business. Frequency of vertical cluster was indicated to be more than horizontal cluster. User behavior of wedding businesses in Seoul has been collecting wedding information through internet and wedding consulting business.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.11
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• pp.492-501
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• 2013

This study is aimed to track down on changes in the way Korean culture was covered in Japanese textbooks over the past three decades since the 1980s by reviewing 'social studies' textbooks for the 6th graders in elementary school and 'geology' textbooks for middle school, which are two compulsory subjects in Japanese schools where Korean cultures is the most often mentioned. To that end, Korean culture contents mentioned in the textbooks were classified into basic element, unique element and element that reflect the times, each of which was then divided into the categories of traditional & modern and surface & in-depth so as to see how each of the categories was presented. Japanese textbooks mentioned mostly surface and basic elements of Korean culture relating to food, clothing and shelter, such as Hanbok, Kimchi, Ondol, high-rise apartment and table manners, and also landscape of Seoul. Also, the kinds of contents which constantly appeared in the textbook were mostly basic elements including to food, clothing and shelter. Elements that reflect the times such as the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games, the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup and the Korean Wave were adequately covered as part of chronological explanations in the books. The aspect of Korean culture in Japanese textbooks seems to expand in depth and scope over the years. More recently, detailed explanations and visual images were increasingly used to introduce Korean culture.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.99-114
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• 2018

Saekdong is a unique Korean fabric that has been used since ancient times, and it is woven with the plain or satin weave so that vertical stripes appear by various colored warp threads of equal spacing. Saekdong means pleasure, joy, serenity, heavenly blessing, spirituality, wind, and abundance, expressing the optimistic and positive sentiment of Korea's forefathers. This study investigated how ancient Saekdong occurred with meanings. As a research method, this study used literature review and surfing newspapers and photographs, museum and internet search, even from other fields such as earthenware, bronze, and traditional dance. We collected Saekdong and the lifestyles of ethnic Koreans living in China, investigated the Asuka culture of Japan, and the tomb murals of Takamatsu-Chong, which are Baekje and Goguryeo settlement areas. The results are as follows: First, it expresses happy occasion, pleasure, and joy, and expresses a desire for good things to be repeated and lasting. Second, it symbolizes simple beauty, order, equality and harmony of many tribes. Third, Saekdong is life and power which represent a sacred, heavenly, mysterious bird. Fourth, it symbolizes abundance and wealth, rain, wind or fields. Finally, this study showed the brilliance and pride of Korean hanbok through Saekdong. The significance of this study is to examine the symbolism and inherent aesthetic characteristics of Saekdong and to show the unique value and spiritual heritage of the Korean people.