• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.31-36
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• 2007

There are several factors in the degradation of textiles. The crucial factors in textile weakening are humidity, dust, smoke, sunlight, microorganisms and so on. Especially silk fabrics are more susceptible to microorganisms than other fabrics, because they are mainly consisted of proteins. In this study, we investigated the activities for degrading casein and silk fibers with 2 strains, Bacillus cereus TX1 and Pseudomonas fluorescens TX 2, isolated from domestic museums. They were compared to those of standard control strains, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus, usually used for the antibiotic test of fabrics. The caseinolytic activities of K. pneumoniae and S. aureus were higher than those of isolated strains. But in the cases of silk fiber degrading, B. cereus TX 1 showed the highest activity on both silk 1 and silk 2. Therefore, caseinolytic activities were not coincident with the activity to degrade silk fibers. All strains degraded silk 1(strength retention 100%) better than silk 2(strength retention 50%). It means that bacteria mainly participate in the early stage of degrading silk fabrics, but as time goes by, the importance of bacteria for degrading silk fabrics would decreased. Even though the importance of bacteria may decrease, controlling bacterial activity is necessary to preserve historic silk fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2016

Natural colorant extracts were obtained by extraction from tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea using water, methanol, ethanol and acetone as extractants at room temperature for 3 hours under shaking condition(180rpm) with liquor ratio(solid:solvent; 1:100). The main pigment components of tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea are known to be curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate, respectively. The effects of the kind of extractant and pH on the color characteristics of natural colorant extracts were investigated. The solubility parameters of pigment components were determined to find adequate extractant. The solubility parameters of curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate were found to be 27.85, 29.40, 19.48 and $37.97(J/cm^3)^{1/2}$. As expected, solvents that have a solubility parameter similar to that of pigment component were generally found to be effective to obtain pigment extracts having high visible absorbance(A). The extract(pigment/solvent) with high visible absorbance was generally found to have low $L^*$(lightness) and high Chroma($C^*$, purity).

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics and detergency of natural surfactants for the cleaning of excavated fabrics. For this purpose, SDS, a synthetic surfactant, was selected as the control, and five types of natural surfactants, namely, LES, apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa, and coco betaine were selected. The structures of the surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR spectroscopy analysis, and the characteristics of the surfactants were determined by measuring the pH and surface tension. In addition, detergency testing was carried out on four artificially soiled fabrics and fragments of excavated fabrics. From the results, apple wash, tea saponin, and cornacopa were found to be as good as SDS in terms of detergency in the cleaning of artificially soiled fabrics, and the detergency of tea saponin and coco betaine was found to be good for cleaning excavated fabrics. Therefore, considering the safety and detergency of detergents, among natural surfactants, tea saponin is found to be most suitable for the cleaning of excavated fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.588-594
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• 2016

The outer clothing of shaman that are put on while performing current gutgeori is lacking in form and composition, diversified with kinds. Above all, name of shaman clothing is not unified, accordingly, there's a big difference from traditional Gutgeori, which was definitely divided in the role of outer clothing of shaman in respect of function and role of Gutgeori. Here, this research attended a site that performed Gutgeori based on the advanced literature research data research and analyzed the state and name of outer clothing by conducting a survey and interview investigation. Survey was conducted during 2 years from 2014 to 2015 classifying Gutgeori of Seoul, Gyeongsang, Honam, Jeju, Chungcheon. Research results are as follows. First, lots of outer clothes were put on along with shamanism type in Seoul, accordingly, names were diversified. Name of outer clothing was not unified by focusing on level of divinity or behavior of Gutgeori, with no consistency being mixed. Second, name was not consistent even the outer clothing of the same type shaman along with the region, sometimes put on in different meaning, accordingly, called in different name. Combination of such name of shaman is determined to be a big reason of lack of accurate information on shaman clothing and genealogy of name of shaman clothing in shamans, as the initial research on shamanism was conducted by folklorists in advance.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

Natural preservative agents are generally made of antibiotic substances that are extracted from plants. They are used mainly to keep in an original good state food, natural cosmetic goods and medicines which are likely to get rotten. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether natural preservative agents can be applied to fabrics for the preservation of textile cultural properties. For the purpose, this researcher experimented with a certain natural preservative agent which was developed to preserve natural cosmetic goods. The study found that when treated with the foresaid natural preservative agent whose ratio to water was 1%, fabrics showed little changes in color and tensile strength, almost neutral pH, high antibiosis and anti-fungus and high resistance to Bacillus cereus that is much detrimental to silk fabrics. As a part of the study, a preliminary test on the possibility of using natural preservative agents to preserve textile cultural properties, found that when kept covered up with the 1% natural preservative agent-treated fabrics for 72 hours, excavated textile relics showed a dramatic decrease in microbial growth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.873-887
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• 2010

Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.15 no.10
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• pp.983-988
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• 2006

The textile remains have been affected largely by environmental factors including microorganisms because they were composed of organic compounds to be easy to damage. So, we selected 8 strains of the 131 isolated strains from museum environments and textile remains by high pretense activity, and identified them for measuring the antibacterial activity of Gingko biloba extracts. They were identified Genus Arthrobacter spp. 3 strains (Arthrobacter nicotiannae A12, Arthrobacter sp B12, Arthrobacter oxidans B13), Cenus Bacillus spp. 2 strains (Bacillus licheniformis D9, Bacillus cereus D33), Genus Pseudomonas spp. 2 strains (Pseudomonas putida A24, Pseufomonas fluorescene C21) and a Genus Staphylococcus sp. 1 strain (Staphylococcus pasteuri D3) as closest strains through the blast search of NCBI. Though antibacterial activity of the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves as MIC was lower than that of other pharmaceutical antibiotics. However the extracts was crude extracts, the extracts might have good antibacterial against most of the isolates from museum. Especially, the antifungal activity of Gingko biloba is known previously, the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves has possibility of usage as a good natural material for conservation of remains.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.297-303
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• 2012

Samsebul, the altar portrait behind the statue of Buddha in the main building of Bonghwang temple in Andong, has been designated as Tangible Cultural Property No. 406. These alter portraits have significance as the standard of the research of Samsebul in Joseon period. In this study, fibre of the ground textile is identified using microscopic examination, solubility test, ATR-FT-IR, SEM, XRD. Two samples from Yaksabul(A, B), one sample from Seokgabul(C), and one sample from Amitabul(D), which were collected during the conservation process, were prepared for this study. In previous record, above samples were documented as hemp. Due to severe deterioration and accumulated dust layers on these samples, it was hard to recognize them with naked eyes, but through this study, we could identify that all samples except one from Yaksabul(A) are silk.