• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.11
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• pp.1174-1185
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• 2012

This study develops tight-fitting upper clothing to measure electrocardiography (ECG) data. Taking into consideration the elasticity of the clothing, we made 4 experimental clothes by applying to each a weft reduction rate of 40%, 50%, 60%, and 70%. The 4 experimental clothes were used to measure resting ECG, exercise ECG, and post-exercise ECG for 4 men in their 20s. We compared clothing pressures using sensors on the human body and on a dressform. Subjective wear sensations of the 4 experimental clothes were evaluated using a subjective 7-point scale (with 7 being most excellent). We measured clothing pressures by using the air type pressure (AMI 3037-2) for upper and lower chest sensors in the developed tight-fitting upper clothing. The lower chest sensor showed that the clothing pressure on a human body and dressform changed consistently as the weft reduction rate decreased. The upper chest sensor showed inconsistent changes in clothing pressure as the weft reduction rate decreased. The wearing-test result for preliminary subjects showed that the lower chest sensor was more stable than the upper chest sensor; therefore, we inserted the sensor at the lower chest position before performing ECG. Except for Subject 4, the resting ECGs were stably measured for 3 subjects (Subject 1, Subject 2, and Subject 3) in all the developed clothes (A clothing, B clothing, C clothing, and D clothing). However, D clothing showed stable ECG values after exercise. The results of the experiment showed that we could measure ECG without difficulty using clothes with a weft reduction rate of 40% when the movement was not intense; however, tight-fitting upper clothing with a weft reduction rate of 70% was necessary to measure exercise ECG and post-exercise ECG values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.722-732
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• 2006

The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.349-361
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop bodice basic patterns fitted on different body types of adult women. To meet this purpose, first, human bodies were measured using tight fitting technique and classified based on the shapes of upper trunk. The subjects were 214 women $20{\sim}39$ years of age. For the measurement of female upper trunk, tight fitting technique was utilized. The development of figures of upper trunks were obtained from women. These development of figures were then digitized and analysed using the PAD system. A total of 155 measurements were taken from each of the development of figures. then, 32 measurements were selected for the further analysis. As complimentary data, 22 direct body measurements using an anthropometric method and 23 body measurements using a photographic method from the side view pictures of the participants were also obtained. The results and discussions of this study are as follows: Using the body measurements from the development of figures, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis were conducted. As a result, the body types were classified into 5 different types, which differ in terms of bust volumes, shoulder slopes, shoulder tilts, back silhouettes, body axises. The prominent characteristics of each type are as follows: The first type has a large bust volume. The second type has a right figure. The third type has a rounded back silhouette. The fourth type has a back silhouette of scapular coming backward. Finally the fifth type has a shoulder tilted forward.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.157-166
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• 2006

The human body, which is composed of concave and convex curvatures, makes it difficult to transfer into 2D patterns directly from 3D data. In previous studies. Jeong, et al.(2004) suggested the block method was fester and easier when dealing with the triangular patches of male's upper dress form. Although the block method is useful to make a pattern, the information(area, length, etc.) from a 2D pattern would be different depending on the direction of the block method. As a result horizontal and diagonal block methods were suggested as optimal methods for 2D tight-fitting patterns. These block methods were closer to the original area of the 3D scan data than the vertical block method. The total area of the 2D pattern obtained by the horizontal and diagonal block methods showed little differences. In case of the horizontal and diagonal block methods, the total error of the 2D pattern area ranged from $0.01\%\~0.25\%$. In comparing the length of the 2D pattern with that of the 3D scan data, the obtained 2D pattern was $0.1\~0.2cm$ shorter than the 3D scan data, which was within the acceptable range of errors in making clothes. 3D space distribution images between the body surface and the experimental clothing were also measured and $3\%$ enlargement of the original pattern was verified as the adequate adjustment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 1996

In this study, the pattern was copied by the method of Tight Fitting Techinque, which resulted from the changed body by the upper limb motion-front-vertical motion(or vertical motion in front), side-vertical motion, and horizontal motion. And, this study analyzed the change of the pattern and the observed items dimension changed to the pattern. The results are as follows: 1. In the observation of the degree of the pattern change according to the motion of upper limb, the result provides that the motion change in the range of $135^{\circ}$ to $180^{\circ}$ is the largest in front-vertical motion, $45^{circ}~90^{\circ}$ in side-vertical motion, and $0^{circ}~45^{\circ}$ in horizontal motion respectively. 2. The probability test result of the items of the motion is more related with the horizontal width item rather than the vertical length item in the front and back pattern where the back pattern has more effect than the front pattern. And the upper limb-surrounding items are more related than any otheer item. 3. The change of the pattern according to the motion shows the decrese of the neck width and the shoulder legth, the rising of the point of shoulder (or shoulder point) and armpit point, the decrease of the pattern width and the increase of the pattern length. As the angle of the motion grows vertically motion. The change of the shoulder length in the horizontal motion is smaller than that vertical. But as the angle of the motion grows horizontally, it has a tendency of decreas in th width of the front patten and the length of the pattern, whereas the width of the back pattern is noticeably increases.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.44-56
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• 2007

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of dress shirts pattern appropriate for the body types of athletes. The research subjects are 257 athletes from wrestling, bodybuilding, weight lifting, Judo, canoe, rowing. In regards to the category used in the measurement of bust somatotype, there are 48 types directly measured, 4 types indirectly measured, 7 types calculated and 1 bodyweight of type, making it 60 categories in total. The bust somatotype of a sports athlete and general person were compared together and after examining the characteristics of the bust somatotype, the somatotype of sports athlete was divided according to drop. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Questionnaire Results of the questionnaire showed that 63.4% of the respondents chose dress shirt as the most uncomfortable upper garment for athletes. And as for the result of the most uncomfortable body part turned out to be 'the neck is tight'. 2. Somatotype Analysis Results of direct, indirect measurement and the average somatotype of 97 National standard physique were compared. The characteristics of somatotype of athletes with well-developed upper body are that they are taller and have longer upper body and arms than the general person. And also the width of the trunk is wider, the girth bigger and the waist measure relatively slimmer. Looking at sports by category, it we could see that wrestlers were the largest neck parameter and width. Bodybuilders were the largest body parts for most categories. Weight lifting and Judo athletes were the largest waist and buttock. Canoe and rowing athletes were the largest height and arm parts. Dividing the somatotype of athletes according to drop, 72.8% of the research group belonged to the body type that resembled the letter Y.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.145-155
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• 2002

In order to investigate how upper limb motion gives influence on clothing, this study measured tests by following standards: Front Vertical motion, Side-Vertical motion, and Horizontal motion. For this study, the procedures in the order of alphabet are applied. A. Eeach of testee's pattern was copied by the motion with a method of tight fitting technique. B. Analyzing each of the size-change on measuring item. C. Studying the moving aspects at each datum points. The results shows that the biggest change can be found in the following items. 1) In vertical motion of F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point) 2) In horizontal motion of F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most noticeable items are F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point), F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), F6 (the length to armpit point from A-point), B7 (the length to side-waist point from B-point). In result of the study of datum point's movement by motion, the items which were measured with the longest on straight-distance in vertical motion are the front and rear-shoulder, and the rear-shoulder, front-armpit in horizontal motion each. In the movement of each datum points by length, the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most remarkable item is the front-shoulder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.78-86
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• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.