• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.722-732
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• 2006

The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.