Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.34
no.1
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pp.112-125
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2010
A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.
A study using 3D virtual garment simulation is carried out for the evaluation and application on the pants fit for obese women in their age of 20s and 30s. The results are as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0cm, hip circumstance was 102.4cm, BMI was $27.1kg/m^2$, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of 20~30s obese women preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics. When comparing the appearances between real garment and virtual garment, the average of the real garment with 100% cotton was 3.70 and the virtual garment was 4.05. The average of real garment with cotton spandex mixed fabrics was 3.75 and the virtual garment was 4.06. Therefore, the average of virtual garment was highly evaluated. When comparing the results of evaluating the appearance, there was no significant difference caused by materials between real garment and virtual garment. The expression for the ease of virtual garment and real garment was also similar for good evaluation. Thus, 3D virtual garment simulation did positively prove its reliability and effect.
This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.
The study has been carried out in four ways to find out the fit of the present size speces of the garments for middle aged woman. For this purpose, surveys, classifying the trunk form of middle aged woman by factor analysis and clustering, calculating coverage rate of one garment item(suit) has been used. The results are as follows: (1) In case of the survey for middle aged women, the problems concerning the length of sleeves or trousers and hip girth are found. The former too long and the latter too tight. (2) The size classification and the standard deviation for each sizes are very diffenent between 9 ready-made-garment makers. (3) In classifying the trunk forms of the middle aged women, the diversity of the trunk forms are examined. (4) In calculating coverage rates of the 5 maker's size spece, those similar to KS sizing system are the highest. The coverage rate of the smallest size is the higest, while that of the biggest is 0%.
Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).
This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.
The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.
The purpose of this study was to investigate donning and doffing independence of the disabled individuals. The subjects of this study were who had kinetic disabilities on upper-limbs. 31 women and 38 children were participated in the survey. They were classified with six groups according to their upper-limbs' kinetic ability levels. Three upper-limbs' kinetic abilities were adopted: Lifting arms up to the chest, twisting shoulder to throw arms toward the back, and buttoning clothes by oneself. The independency of donning and doffing of 14 upper-body garment styles were evaluated by subjects. The donning and doffing independency of 14 garment styles was significantly differentiated by the level of kinetic abilities and garment styles. The person who able to button clothes by oneself could don and doff clothes by oneself. The results also revealed that the independency of donning and doffing was significantly different between cerebral palsy and apoplexy groups. The persons having a stroke of apoplexy were more likely to be able to dress independently than the persons with cerebral palsy. The persons with a paralysed arm were more likely able to wear ready-to-wear clothes of various styles. The donning and doffing independency was also significantly differentiated by the styles of garments. The tight fit style garments were more difficult to be dressed independently than the loose fit style garments. The jacket and shirts, which were buttoned from neck to bottom, were more difficult to be dressed independently than T-shirts.
This study was performed to investigate the characteristics of denim pants preferred by Korean women in their 20's through the analysis of the sensory test(appearance) and garment space length. Four kinds of ready-made denim pants of national and licensed brand on sale in Korea were used as the experimental garment. The results were as follows: 1. The significant difference among brands were found in the appropriateness of ease in the part of waist belt(front), knee (front), ankle(back) and the total silhouette. 2. In the analysis of garment space length. the significant difference among brands was shown in waist belt part $(FL60^{\circ})$, hip $(FL0^{\circ},\;FL30^{\circ})$, crotch(SRR) and knee(BR60^{\circ}). However, total average was not significant difference. 3. According to analysis of pattern size, the brand N was out of balance in crotch depth and girth. by which it can be said that N got the lowest score in sensory test (appearance). On the other hand, Brand GU was large in circumference with short crotch length. 4. Therefore, the most preferred denim pants pattern of Korean women in their 20's was fit in waist belt. hip. crotch circumference and a little bit tight in crotch depth and length. As the design was limited as straight style. more design and brands must be included for future study.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.8
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pp.1226-1232
/
2008
Tight fitting glove pattern is necessary to convey oscillation to the skin from the sensors attached on the hands as found in the haptic device. However, it has been difficult to provide customized glove pattern for haptic device so far. The objective of the paper is to develop a 2D pattern that fit tightly to hands by adopting the recent 3D technology to the clothing science. In this study, the user graphic interface application software(2C-AN) for the semi-automatic garment pattern generation has been utilized to develop the methodology of construct tight-fitting glove pattern for the hand in natural position. A basic pattern was developed directly from the 3D images of hand and the verification of the proposed pattern was also provided.
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