• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.37-49
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data of dress design by researching three-dimensional decorative techniques representing flowers, a popular motif in dress design. This study analyzed 44 dresses that were presented in Valentino collection. The result of this study is as follows: First, the detailing expression method can show various patterns and colors through embroidery technique, sub-materials, and bonding techniques in embroidery, beads flower, and ribbon flowers. Second, the fabric flower technique expressed flower image in three-dimension in more various images than do either the ribbon or beads flower technique. Fabric flowers are mostly made from the same material as dresses. The expression technique of fabric flower is classified into the following three classifications: 1) A technique underlying a flower image with one, two and three large flowers, 2) a technique decorating a large area with a number of an identical motif, and 3) a technique highlighting a part of the body or design line by attracting eyes to one point, creating a corsage decorated where a designer wants to emphasize. Third, a silhouette technique realizes a flower image with a silhouette of a dress like sculpted structure and it is thus used less than a detailing expression technique. A flower image is expressed by making use of body lines or emphasizing the face. Finally, flower images on a dress were realized as a full blossomed flower, through visually streamlined shapes and curved lines.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.141-150
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate three-dimensional embroidery techniques for creating conductive fabric materials. Such techniques can increase the efficiency of energy harvesting by increasing the fabric's area during rubbing and brushing. We also investigate the fabric structure of the triboelectric energy harvesting type. Two experiments were conducted for this purpose. In Experiment I, the three-dimensional embroidery technique(satin technique, file technique) and the conductive fabric material(copper-based MPF, nickel-based MPF) were selected as the main variables affecting the efficiency of triboelectric energy harvesting from the human body. Four samples were fabricated according to a combination of two variables. In Experiment II, the harvesters fabricated by the three-dimensional embroidery method showing the highest efficiency were subjected to brushing processes and the voltages generated after processing were analyzed. As a result, in both conductive fabric materials, the pile embroidery fabric structure showed a higher efficiency than the satin structure. These results show the triboelectric energy harvesting principle, which is proportional to the charge density and the generated voltage. It can be seen that the structure of pile embroidery fabric with a large friction area is advantageous for increasing efficiency compared to satin embroidery-fabric structure with a relatively small friction area. Moreover, the energy harvesting efficiency after brushing was higher than that before processing due to the increased friction area, and it was found that the brushing method is advantageous for increasing the triboelectric-energy harvest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.6
• /
• pp.74-85
• /
• 2011

In modern fashion, accessories are recognized as indispensable articles for the completion of a look. Scarf and muffler has attained significance as a main fashion item. The purpose of study was to analyze the motifs of special material for muffler design on special material, and to seek unique and decorative effect using three dimensional method on the flat surfaced textile to give novelty. This study introduced technique of applying embroidery onto special materials such as fur and leather to achieve variety of texture effect. The results are as follows: Six designs were proposed. Each work has different detail and silhouette, and the unique motif design using embroidery with cotton, nylon, and bead on fur, leather, wool, and satin. This will be a method to develop value-added products in fashion and formative arts.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.4-25
• /
• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.46 no.3
• /
• pp.230-250
• /
• 2013

possessed by Dong-A University Museum is designated as Treasure No. 595, and has been known for a more exquisite, delicate and realistic expression and a colorful three-dimensional structure compared to the 'grass and insect painting' work and its value in art history. However, it has not been analyzed and studied in fabric craft despite it being an embroidered work. This study used scientific devices to examine and analyze the Screen's fabric, thread colors, and embroidery techniques to clarify its patterns and fabric craft characteristics for its value in the history of fabric craft. As a result, consists of eight sides and its subject matters and composition are similar to those of the general paintings of grass and insects. The patterns on each side of the 'grass and insect painting' include cucumber, cockscomb, day lily, balsam pear, gillyflower, watermelon, eggplant, and chrysanthemums from the first side. Among these flowers, the balsam pear is a special material not found in the existing paintings of grass and insect. The eighth side only has the chrysanthemums with no insects and reptiles, making it different from the typical forms of the paintings of grass and insect. The fabric of the Screen uses black that is not seen in other decorative embroideries to emphasize and maximize various colors of threads. The fabric used the weave structure of 5-end satin called Gong Dan [non-patterned satin]. The threads used extremely slightly twisted threads that are incidentally twisted. Some threads use one color, while other threads use two or mixed colors in combination for three-dimensional expressions. Because the threads are severely deterioration and faded, it is impossible to know the original colors, but the most frequently used colors are yellow to green and other colors remaining relatively prominently are blue, grown, and violet. The colors of day lily, gillyflower, and strawberries are currently remaining as reddish yellow, but it is anticipated that they were originally orange and red considering the existing paintings of grass and insects. The embroidery technique was mostly surface satin stitch to fill the surfaces. This shows the traditional women's wisdom to reduce the waste of color threads. Satin stitch is a relatively simple embroidery technique for decorating a surface, but it uses various color threads and divides the surfaces for combined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches or for the combination of long and short stitches for various textures and the sense of volume. The bodies of insects use the combination of buttonhole stitch, outline stitch, and satin stitch for three-dimensional expressions, but the use of buttonhole stitch is particularly noticeable. In addition to that, decorative stitches were used to give volume to the leaves and surface pine needle stitches were done on the scouring rush to add more realistic texture. Decorative stitches were added on top of gillyflower, strawberries, and cucumbers for a more delicate touch. is valuable in the history of paintings and art and bears great importance in the history of Korean embroidery as it uses outstanding technique and colors of Korea to express the Shin Sa-im-dang's 'Grass and Insect Painting'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.1-20
• /
• 2005

This study is purposed to provide new idea for developing high value added fashion goods by studying relief effects of fashion design. Based on prior researches, various ways to give relief effects were searched and then modern fashion design cases were looked for which were referred to fashion-related magazines and collection-related internet sites since the late 1990s. The ways for relief effects are weaving, industrial finishing, sewing technique. Weaving techniques are about fancy yarns, variation of weaving structure, pile weave. Industrial finishing techniques which can make relief effects are embossing, heat-setting, shearing, pliss, burn out, flocking. Sewing techniques are quilting, pleats, embroidery, slash, attachment in accordance with the way to produce relief effects. The forms of relief effects are tactile pattern that cannot be seen in the distance, subtle relief pattern which is more three-dimensional than tactile pattern, rhythmical relief pattern, sculptural pattern, and deep-volumed pattern. The present research can provide practical data for design by studying techniques of relief effects and collecting and arranging design cases that have been sporadically carried out. The study on relief and unique surface effects can be a way to effectively stimulate and express emotions of modern people with various taste and individuality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.934-950
• /
• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.