Material is a factor for maximizing formative aspect among fashion design factors. Therefore, central axis of modern fashion is performing various trials for escaping from existing cloth and searching for artistic value. Especially, Korean paper is a formative material, which is manufactured through traditional manual work in Korea. The material is used in various fields on the basis of its aesthetic feature. Especially, fashion field performs handcraft activity on the basis of mulberry pulp, which is a prime material of Korean paper. Because the activity can be reinterpreted by world designers, who want to find motive of fashion material in the third world, it is necessary to perform experimental study for developing expressive form on the basis of diversity of Korean paper material. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to perform experimental study by focusing on the development of Korean paper material in order to express formative feature. The study purposes are as follows. The first purpose is to reinterprete the theory through actual work of fiber formation using Korean paper in the current flow where art and design field are fused and compromised. The second purpose is to suggest vision of material development on the basis of formative feature to fashion world focusing its eyesight to Asia and the third countries. The study results are as follows. First, Korean paper has been evaluated as proper material for the fusion of design and art because of its handicraft feature, long-term preservation, heat insulation, absorption, diversity and eastern feature. Second, the study performed various trials for artistic dress material by developing 12 Korean paper works and suggested the development of new material on the basis of formative feature of modem fashion industry.
Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.4
s.152
/
pp.507-518
/
2006
This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.17
no.4
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pp.1-14
/
2015
This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.
This study helps out-size consumers purchase tops and improve the fitness of unde-weight women in their 20s-30s and by the establishment of a size system. The criteria for subjects in this study were those under 18.5($kg/m^2$) of the BMI; subsequently, a total of 233 females were enrolled. The results were: First, the nominal size for female adult formal dress suggested by the KS standard is suggested in 20 sections. The sections for underweight women are 7, (34 women who accounted for 14.59% out of 233 in total). The cover efficiency was 2.08% (which was very low). Second, tests showed that the average difference between the reference part body size of 7 sections for underweight women in the normal size section of bust cir.- hip cir.- height, and KS standard, waist cir. among reference sizes was rather small in the case of a nominal size for long height. Therefore, there is a significant difference with size in the KS standard and a sizing system proven improper for underweight woman. Third, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different due to the size system establishment according to measurements of underweight subjects. The research findings suggest that it is necessary to understand underweight types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns that consider the underweight body shape characteristics when women's tops are designed.
Interest in traditional culture has been increasing due to globalization. We need to create fashion items using Korea folk culture like the Hanbok. In this paper, the design development of toddler's pajamas was attempted by using women's Sokgot pants, which were worn by women in Joseon Dynasty period. The study involved a review of literature and an investigation of past relics. Traditional women's Sokgot pants had a 'mu' or 'dang' in the crotch which is called 'the mit' now. The opening of the mit will be used for designing toddler's pajamas. Design suggestions for four styles of toddler's pajamas, which reflect the formative characteristic of women's Sokgot pants, have been created. Research outcomes are as follow: the characteristics of Ran-pants are applied to design 1 and design 2. There have pleats along the waistband of the toddler's pajamas, making the Mu more hidden. Pleats of the waist part are achieved by using an elastic, which also makes the pajamas easier to fit and to wear. The characteristics of Gaedanggo, of which the crotch is opened, are applied to design 3 and design 4. The opened crotch is applied so that toddlers can relieve themselves easily while they are wearing these pajamas. There is also an opening in the centerline of the front Mu in design 4 which gives additional functionality and comfort. This work shows that items of traditional folk dress can be used to make present fashion items.
This study conducted in-depth interviews with experts to implement Hanbok shows on metaverse, which can contribute to the succession and development of Hanbok design and to establish a platform that fits the reality of the Hanbok industry and consumers. In-depth interviews were conducted to collect opinions from experts, and the derived contents were divided and analyzed using an affinity diagram. Experts were positive about the use of the metaverse platform of the Hanbok show in terms of impact, accessibility, exposure, virtual fitting, issuance of NFTs, and promotion of Hanbok brands. As a result of verifying the validity of the four components of metaverse, experts highly evaluated the possibility of using Hanbok shows in the order of virtual reality, augmented reality, mirror world, and lifelogging. Visuality, influence, marketing efficiency in virtual reality, immersion in augmented reality, fantasy and artistic elements, expression, diversity, and abundant experiences were expected. The platform's requirements emphasized realistic implementation equipment and technology, collaboration between Hanbok designers and producers, in addition to government support. Results of this study showed that appropriate target was analyzed to be in the 10-30s, and the appropriate price range was found to be able to sell at a discount of 40-80% compared to offline. This study provides useful implications for the service development of metaverse content, which will also be actively used in the Hanbok field, and can be used as basic data for reviving the Korean Hanbok industry and strengthening international competitiveness.
In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.
The purpose of this study was to better assess and understand current needs and wearing sensation, including clothing behavior for early elderly women in the Korea and USA. The subjects in this study were 135 and 173 early elderly women in the Korea and USA. This research was done by a survey method and chi-square test. The major objectives of this study were as follows; First, it was found that the early elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas those of USA mostly media information. The women of Korea were found to put most emphasis in esthetic aspects of clothing, whereas those of USA in comfort. The most frequently worn clothes by the early elderly women of Korea were jumper, T-shirt and slacks, whereas jacket, sweater and slacks by those of USA. As for skirt, flare skirt was highly preferred in Korea, whereas A-line skirt in USA. Second, regarding the wearing sensation of ready-made clothing, the wearing sensation of jacket was found to be worst on the shoulder in Korea, whereas on the waist in USA. And the early elderly women of both Korea and USA had poor wearing sensations due to the length of sleeve, of trouser, of skirt and of one-piece dress. The comparison of the clothing behavior and wearing sensation of the early elderly women between Korea and USA showed a greater difference in clothing behavior than in wearing sensation.
Purpose : In an attempt to analyse gender-egalitarianism related to the general characteristics, sexual consciousness and behavior in middle school students, this study was carried out. This study will provide data that can be used to develop sexuality education programs on the basis of gender-egalitarianism. Method : The subjects were 141 students (70 boys and 71 girls) in 4 classes that were randomly selected from among 8 classes of first graders in a coeducational middle school, in Seoul. For the evaluation of gender-egalitarianism, a Gender Egalitarianism Scale modified by the researcher was used. Results : Major findings were as follows: 1. Gender-egalitarianism was significantly higher in girls compared with boys. All of the boys and girls, had high gender-egalitarianism in the aspect of woman's ability in groups without sexual discrimination, but low gender-egalitarianism in woman's sexual conversation and style of dress. 2. Gender-egalitarianism in boys who had experienced intersexual physical contact, categorized as holding hands, embracing, kissing, and petting, was significantly higher when compared with inexperienced boys. 3. Gender-egalitarianism significantly increased as the father's education level increased as well as the father's open-mindedness. Factors influencing gender-egalitarianism was social acceptance, the mass media, the attitudes of the school teachers, and the attitudes of older and younger student in school. Conclusions : Based on these results, boys' gender-egalitarianism was lower than that of girls. Systematic education on gender-egalitarianism, combined with sexuality education, is necessary for middle school students, especially boys. In the long term, social acceptable the, mass media, school and home life should be changed for the achievement of the equality of the sexes.
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