• 제목/요약/키워드: The dress

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조선 말기 사ㆍ라에 관한 연구 (A Study on Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the End of the Joseon Period)

  • 이은진;조효숙
    • 복식
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    • 제53권8호
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    • pp.121-135
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

1960년대 록 스타 패션의 도상학적 해석 (Iconological Interpretation of the Fashion of Rock Stars in the 1960's)

  • 이정원;금기숙
    • 복식
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    • 제58권6호
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    • pp.69-84
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    • 2008
  • Considering that star reflects the image of current society, analyzing fashion of celebrity is to read ideal type and demands of beauty of the era. Especially the rock music-represents youth culture that last on present day-born in 1960's, and it is considered to a significant decade in pop music history. Thus this research will analysis rock star's fashions in iconological view of E. Panofsky. The aim of this document is Clarifying how the fashion of pop stars appeared and what formed its worth. As a result of analyzing fashions of rock star in 1960's, it is available to find these sameness and difference. The Mods borrowed images of the past, and introduce the elite modernism and shows very urban style. The Folky and the Psychedelic showed post-structuralism propensity against industrial society, in the case of the Folky it induced styles that symbolize labor class to realize social worth. And as an aftereffect of war and repulsion of commercial worth, they embody nature-returning peasant look so that it shows pastoral mood in total. The Psychedelic express somewhat struggling escapism and it generated illusionary images with quests to superego and glorification to psychedelic status. The Folky and the Psychedelic are same in the side of introducing existentialism, this occurred by using ethnic factor. But the Folky showed plain outlook by pop propensity, on the other hand, the Psychedelic showed magnificent outlook such as optical art, pop art, and futurism ought to express merrymaking culture. And common feature of these is introduction of unisex mod which is came after the change of gender role. Thus each star or group has professed special ideology into their culture and it is reflected to acts which is including music and dress style. This affair is analyzed like these two things. The mass of people schemes their identity with inducing special ideology to their culture at the first. And the purpose to archive cultural hegemony in inter-social class at the next.

Brassiere의 적합성에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Wear Fitness of Brassiere)

  • 윤혜경;최석철
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제14권2호
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    • pp.117-128
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    • 1990
  • The purpose of this study is to find fitness of brassiere by means of body measuring value, its variation volume, the evaluation of perceptive image, and the evaluation of the sense of wearing. The results were as follows; 1) According to comparison for body measuring value before and after wearing brassiere, bust point (B.P.) height, lower bust height, upper chest circumference, chest circumference, and bust depth are increased, and lower chest circumference, bust point breadth, shoulder middle point - B.P., B.P. -under bust, and cup horizontal girth are decreased. 2) The difference of variation volume by material is not accepted. The part above $20\%$ at variation rate is under the region of the armpit, that is, the region connected arm from the back. 3) The subjects replied that they wore the brassiere in order to compensate the breast and needed to wear it regardless of thiness and obesity. They wore the brassiere in order to dress themselves in good shape, and felt that it put pressure upon the body, while it had nothing to do with adjusting bodily temperature and gave the sense of security. 4) The estimate of the sense of wearing by material is recognized as the difference of the attention at attentive level $1\%$. The multiple factor analysis of each item in the sense of wearing showed that the items which are explained over $90\%$ by common factors are '1. Unpreasant in touch', '2. The part of edge is haggard', '15. Not to be fit'.

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3D 스캔 데이터를 활용한 밀착 패턴원형 개발 (Development of 2D Tight-fitting Pattern from 3D Scan Data)

  • 정연희;홍경희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제30권1호
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    • pp.157-166
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    • 2006
  • The human body, which is composed of concave and convex curvatures, makes it difficult to transfer into 2D patterns directly from 3D data. In previous studies. Jeong, et al.(2004) suggested the block method was fester and easier when dealing with the triangular patches of male's upper dress form. Although the block method is useful to make a pattern, the information(area, length, etc.) from a 2D pattern would be different depending on the direction of the block method. As a result horizontal and diagonal block methods were suggested as optimal methods for 2D tight-fitting patterns. These block methods were closer to the original area of the 3D scan data than the vertical block method. The total area of the 2D pattern obtained by the horizontal and diagonal block methods showed little differences. In case of the horizontal and diagonal block methods, the total error of the 2D pattern area ranged from $0.01\%\~0.25\%$. In comparing the length of the 2D pattern with that of the 3D scan data, the obtained 2D pattern was $0.1\~0.2cm$ shorter than the 3D scan data, which was within the acceptable range of errors in making clothes. 3D space distribution images between the body surface and the experimental clothing were also measured and $3\%$ enlargement of the original pattern was verified as the adequate adjustment.

A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women's Mantle

  • Lee, Sang-Rye;Kim, Hye-Jeong
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제14권6호
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    • pp.188-203
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    • 2010
  • This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

애니메이션에 나타난 악당 캐릭터 분석 : 미국과 중국 애니메이션 캐릭터 특징을 중심으로 (Analysis of Villain Characters in Animation : Focusing on the Characteristics of Animation Characters in the U.S. and China)

  • 조월;박성원
    • Journal of Information Technology Applications and Management
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    • 제27권6호
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 2020
  • Since the birth of animation, the United States has created many classic characters. For example, Mickey Mouse and Minnie, Tom and Jerry, Lion King, and Nemo, which are imaged with animal images, include Snow White, Bell, Mulan, and Aladdin. In addition, there are villain characters designed with strong personality and personality design, such as Snow White's stepmother Grimheel, Ursula, Bad Girl Crew El Radville, Scar, Captain Hook, and so on. These animation characters have been remembered for a long time with stories in people's minds, and have also brought laughter and emotion to people all over the world, which has brought a lot of business value to animation companies. Recently, the villain of American animation works is becoming more and more suited to the taste of the audience. The villain is not a symbolic image of the brutality we have seen before. They are not only visual images with rich and diverse personalities, but are also designed to suit the tastes of the public with a multifaceted inconsistency. They appear as ordinary people in our lives in works, or as powerful people who are not realistic. The villain characters designed in this way are real human miniatures appearing in the relationships in our lives, and they cannot judge good or bad only by their appearance. Through the study of villains in American animation, many villains in American animation were summed up, and villains could be classified into three types: brutal, violent, and sneaky. Based on this, it was possible to analyze the appearance and attire of the villain character in American animation, and to create a vivid and popular image of the villain, it was found that the character of the character should be emphasized when constructing the shape and costume of the villain character. In conclusion, the attractive formation of villain characters is an important part for successful animation. The production of vivid and long-lasting villain characters must begin with detailed settings such as personality, shape, and dress from the planning stage, which is not only the intention of the producer, but also a reflection of the aesthetic psychology that society should pay attention to today.

개정 경비업법의 문제점과 개선방안에 관한 연구 (A Study on The Problem of The Revised Security Industry Law and Improvement Plan)

  • 박형식
    • 융합보안논문지
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    • 제13권5호
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    • pp.129-135
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    • 2013
  • 개정 경비업법은 폭력사태를 근절하기 위하여 31개 조문 중에서 17개 조문을 개정하였다. 개정 경비업법의 주요내용은 허가요건의 강화, 의무의 강화, 집단민원현장의 관리 강화, 임원, 경비지도사 및 경비원의 결격사유 확대, 복장 및 장비, 차량, 관리감독의 강화, 처벌의 강화 등이다. 그러나 개정 경비업법은 배치전 신임교육의 의무화, 용역업체폭력의 원인제공자 처벌, 경비업체에 대한 경찰의 인식, 과도한 규제, 처벌강화의 문제, 경찰의 지나친 감독권 강화 등의 문제가 있다. 이를 해결하기 위해서는 개인부담 교육수료 방안, 집단민원현장이외는 사전교육 의무의 배제, 경비업법의 재개정, 추가부담금의 정부부담, 폭력요구 도급업자의 처벌, 경비원자격증제의 도입 등이 필요하다고 생각한다.

Underwear에 관한 고찰 (A Study on Underwear)

  • 이순홍
    • 복식
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    • 제50권
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    • pp.129-144
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    • 2000
  • In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

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카자흐스탄 아파트 단위세대 평면변경 사례를 통해 살펴본 주거요구의 경향 (Understanding the Living Demands of Kazakh Apartments through Plan Alteration Cases)

  • 최재필;이재훈;손동화;김영우
    • 한국주거학회논문집
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    • 제25권1호
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    • pp.81-90
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    • 2014
  • As an emerging market in central Asia, Kazakhstan's housing market is witnessing increasing demands. Though Korean construction industries have attempted to take advantage of this opportunity, inadequate understanding of the local living demands have kept the industries from successfully establishing themselves in the foreign context. The goal of this research is to derive architectural planning implications regarding the living demands by investigating changes being made to the housing structure. By analyzing 11 apartment unit plans, it was found that Kazakhs had a living demand for more spacious living rooms and functional spaces. In the effort to improve the livingroom environment and usability such as enlarging the livingroom, removing the living room wall for open space or expanding the inner space facing outside is understood that the living room is considered as an important space. The fact that spaces such as dress rooms and utility rooms are being added in the housing market, reflects the demand of functional spaces. These demands are considered as the reflection of the traditional life style of nomad culture and the cold local climate. Therefore, it can be said that the apartment unit plans distributed in the Korean housing market are quite compatible with the Kazakh housing market since they offer spatious living rooms, while the latter founding implies the changes that ought to be made for a successful establishment in the foreign market.

인터넷 판매를 통한 생활한복의 활성화 연구 (A Study on active use of Daily Hanbok through sales on The Internet)

  • 소현정;심화진
    • 복식
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    • 제50권4호
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    • pp.181-195
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    • 2000
  • This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.

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