• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1761-1771
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• 2007

The artificial exaggeration of stage costumes is thought to be one of the major techniques of enhancing dramatic expression on stage, whichever for visual impact or symbolic effect of dramatization. In the history of stage dressing, a variety of styles has been tried using different materials and production techniques. This may be reviewed as an effort to express dramatic effects more effectively. As this trend became obvious in Europe after the Second World War, this study analyzes the stage costume to deepen our understandings of the role of costumes in expressing dramatic effects. To accomplish this, we first summarized the history of stage costume materials and technical advance and chose five major cases representing the history of stage costume since the Second World War in Europe based on aesthetic and creative aspects: 1) Simplified stage of Jacques Copeau, 2) Stylized stage of Bertolt Brecht, 3) Essential stage of Grotowski, 4) Measured stage of Robert Wilson the Master, and 5) Post-dramatic stage of Philippe $Decoufl\'{e}$. In each of particular case, the historical, material and dramatic contexts were examined as well as different material-effects. The results are as followings: 1) Costume for Copeau's simplified stage: its simplicity plays a supporting role to the gesture of actors(intensifying effect). 2) Costume for Brecht's stylized stage: the artificial stylization integrates into the play with the importance approximately equal to the actors's acting. 3) Costumes for Grotowski's essential stage: costumes disappeared to emphasize only actor's presence on stage. 4) Costumes for Robert Wilson's measured stage: costumes made concrete impression to the extent of obtaining the same importance of actor's body among other stage art elements(lighting, sound, props, actor, text, etc). 5) Costumes for Decoufle's post-dramatic stage: costumes in the era of multi technology possess multi functional aspects that surrogate actors' body. This study suggests that stage costumes take an important part in dramaturgy to the extent that the intent of dramaturgy can be induced enough from stage costume. Thus, costume makers are expected to incorporate the appropriate dramatic factor more than before.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.101-114
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• 2009

Potsherds and kilns of the AD 3th century excavated from Gundong and Majeon sites, Korea were studied to investigate the production techniques and provenance of potsherds and kilns on the pastes. For potsherds, kilns blocks and in-situ paleo-soils, provenance of raw materials were estimated through mineralogy and geochemistry, while production technique and thermal feature of kilns were investigated through observation of textures and compositions as well as firing experiment on paleo-soils. As a result of study, potsherds and kilns were found to have similar mineralogical compositions as the neighboring paleo-soils and to have same evolution path with that of geochemistry. The potsherds were divided into 3 groups according to firing temperature and production technique. Group 1 consists of reddish stamped pattern pottery with loose textures, which has many pores and contains many iron oxides. Its temper is less than about 0.5mm, and was probably fired between 700 to $800^{\circ}C$. Group 2 contains ash to grayish blue stamped pattern pottery, which has vitrified texture and few pores. Its temper is less than about 0.5mm, and was probably fired from 900 to $1,000^{\circ}C$. However, some potsherd belongs to the group 2 in terms of features for temper and pastes, but it was probably fired over $1,100^{\circ}C$. Group 3 contains reddish and grayish stamped pattern pottery. It has vitrified matrix, few pores and temper consists of polycrystalline quartz and feldspar over 2mm, and it was probably fired around $1,000^{\circ}C$. The kiln had experienced temperature from 600 to $700^{\circ}C$ on the wall, from 900 to $1,000^{\circ}C$ on the bottom, suggesting the function of high temperature firing.