• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.190-202
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• 1995

The Optical Art is based on the principle of visual perception of the illusionary effects which induce psychological responses. It has influenced greatly on the Texile Design in that unique iJlusionary creativity of pattern simulates the visual sense of special movement; the dynamic psylosophy of vitalism. The Optical pattern has become a highly valued item due to its innovative effect in aesthetic direction. According to Vitor Vasarely the pioneer in this area, the integration and the inseparability of form and color which he calls 'Plastic Unity' provides the basis for the composition of infinite variety. The composition of infinite variety. The composition reveals the complex interaction between the space and form relating to order, repetition, combination and permutation. It is not simple to create optical patterns due to the extreme complexity composed by the multi-dimension and the infusion of form and color giving immensely varied movement. The purposes of this study are as follows; 1) to classify the complex processes of optical pattern on the basis of formative method. 2) to develop creative ideas for progressive contemporary textile design In this study, the analysis of applied methods is concentrated, which is based 1) on the gradual modification and on the transformation of the basic plastic elements which depend on thle direction of visual points involVing contradictory perspectives 2) on the composition varied special situations by repeating, overlapping and converging a series of idetUical units or by means of irrdiation, radiation and etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.324-330
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is on the meaning and variety about gender expressed in modern fashion. The results are as follows ; First, the typical masculine gender was authority, discretion as a result of heteropatriarchy focused on the western reason. It was conservative and the symbolic image type of the meaning excluded masculine sexual expression. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of straight silhouette, dark color, rough and stiff material. Second, the typical feminine gender was the symbolic image type of a mother and a wife defined relatively by man as a result of western heteropatriarchy and the image type which men regarded women as sexual objects. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of silhouette which let bodily curve out, light color, soft material. The most typical item is dress and suit. Third, androgyny has been described as the feminie gender of androgynous, which shows masculine image as the effect of feminism and social success of professional women. Dress and its ornament is expressed as the style of business suit, the symple of typical man's one. The masculine gender of androgynous is showed man's suit as silhouette that let bodily curve out, light color, exposure and soft material, which is the symbol of feminine dress, Fourth, unisex is the area of dress and its ornament used the sexless symbol which there has been no gender more because of the spread of sports and diffusion of leisure in life style.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.836-847
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• 2008

Maximalism in modern fashion has emerged as an anti-conception against Minimaslism which dominated the trend of 21st century. Contrary to the traits of Minimalism which are oriented to constraint and editing, Maximalism expresses human sensitivity, concern to tradition and other culture, and instinctive desire for decoration. The trend of Maximalism is reflected in various areas of fashion and shoes design, and its influence is still enlarging. This idea for designing shoes come from analyzing the related documentaries, fashion magazines and internet sites since 2005, when the maximalism was main concepts in worldwide fashion trends. The traits of Maxmalistic trend expressed in shoes are decentralizing, pluralisml, sensitivity, etc. The molding constituents, such as form, material, color, accessary decoration, have been expressed as diversified and differentiated traits of shoes design through molding modes such as exaggeration and concentration, distortion and modification, removal and mixing-up. This study takes advantage of this opportunity to grasp the diversified and colorful trend and molding traits of Maximalim expressed in shoes design, close up the molding value of shoes design, and finally enlarge the realm of aesthetic expression of shoes design.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.309-317
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• 2015

This study is the high contraction processing conditions set by the method of the CPB process. And the ultimate goal of this study is the high contraction of the CPB processing test method that can solve the problems of the high-contraction fabric processing method of the current jet dyeing machine. Non-coating process(CPB process) developed by the expression of a soft touch, light weight, functional and to develop excellent breathable nylon fabric. The nylon fabrics established the optimum processing conditions through the high contraction of the various test conditions, the CPB system.(The benzyl alcohol was used as the main constrictor.) At this time, the warp and weft contraction of nylon fabric was about 20%. And it established the constrictor concentration, the treatment temperature, time of a variety of tests. Also non-coating process(CPB process) can develop soft touch, lightweight, excellent air permeability. As a result, we developed a high contraction nylon fabric having a uniform surface. Manufactured fabric is used for Wind-proof and Down-proof.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.263-271
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• 2012

Cultural products reflect a living culture and evolve despite being based on traditional forms only. It is known as traditional cultural expression that portray certain culture groups, materials, spiritual and creativity inspired from their living environment that characterize a society. The old Malay community had a close relationship with their surrounding and environment. Sensitivity towards the nature and surrounding environment moved them into creative people. In designing the local traditional textile, role of the motifs, design and product design play an important element in Malay cultural values. This reflects the symbols and philosophy of the arts and culture and thus becomes the identity of the Malay community, which in general practice their culture and tradition based on Islamic culture and religion. Kelantan and Terengganu are the pioneer states for most producers of Malay traditional textiles. In these states the Pelangi cloths, is one of the unique textiles use and inherited by the Malay communities. Base on history, the Malay rulers and Malay nobility used Pelangi cloth as complementing clothing and ornament in attending various ceremonies and customs in their daily life. In this paper will discuss the specific picture of Pelangi motifs, design and its usage in Malay society in Malay Peninsula through its identification aspect of representations. It shows that this textile represent certain insights of Malay customs and identity.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to be the fundamental study for virtual clothing system of the future through a comparative analysis of the difference between a virtual frill skirt and a real frill skirt using a 3-dimensional Apparel cad system. Satin was selected as a comparative fabric of the real skirt and virtual skirt. And compared skirts are frilled 1.5widths, 2widths, and 2.5widths. In case of 1.5widths frilled, the real skirts and virtual skirts showed no significant difference except in shirring frill expression. However, in case of 2widths frilled, and 2.5widths frilled skirts, significant differences in the extent of frill flattening, the sectional diagram of the bottom hem, and the skirt shape. The virtual skirt showed that as its multiple proportion of frill increased, the sidelines of the skirt drooped and excessively extended, and collision detection that the belt was twisted and torn apart arose. Furthermore, not only the frill but also the shape of the skirt was transformed, and the bottom hems were widened back and forth, and the sectional diagram of the bottom hems were transformed into rounded shapes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.287-294
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• 2015

This study investigates the physical properties of Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) blended yarn with yarn count(20's, 30's, 40's) and blend ratio(Polyester 100, Polyester70:Cotton30, Polyester50:Cotton50, Polyester30:Cotton70, and Polyester50:Tencel40:Cotton10). This study evaluated tenacity, elongation, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, hairiness coefficient, irregularity and twist number. The structure of MVS blended yarn influenced stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and the hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn decreased as the yarn count increased. MVS blended yarn consists of core and sheath. The core of MVS blended yarn is composed of a parallel fiber with a wrapping fiber that covers thecore fiber. This special structure of the MVS blended yarn effects the physical properties of the yarn; in addition, the mechanical properties of the component fibers influenced the stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn with the blend ratio. Polyester decreases and cotton increases resulted in decreased physical properties. A similar polyester content increased the tencel and physical properties. Appropriate physical properties and a variety of touch expression can be realized through a correct blend ratio.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.325-335
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• 2013

This work develops a motif design integrated with geometrical patterns in traditional ddeoksal and that can be applied to a scarf design so that traditional elements unique to Korean culture can be developed further for a modern application to various design fields. For the research method, literature reviews on op art and traditional ddeoksal were conducted with Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. As for the motif combination, such applications were taken as five pieces from the works of Victor Vasarely and some traditional ddeoksal shapes such as oblique line pattern, taegeuk pattern, and geometrical pattern. Abstract and geometrical images were borrowed from op art and ddeoksal for image expression. The total number of works selected was eleven. To realize the applied scarf design, a motif layout was performed with the scarf center or rim highlighted so that each design feature could be remarkable based on the motif combination. With the function of scaling, rotation, opacity control, filtering effect, the changed images were shown through motif distortion. In addition, this work applies a single combined motif to products for a possible transformation into handkerchiefs and boutique scarfs in the case of smaller sized scarfs.