• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.56-56
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.131-141
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shapes and transformation of costumes of Ching's and Mongolian. Mongolian traditional costumes are trousers and jacket, with Deel(袍) and Terlig(帖裡) pleated in the waistline, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike. It was designed for adapting to horse riding activities and cold steppe climate. Similarity between Ching's and Mongolian nomadic costumes was used as a means of unity by Ching. Transformation of Mongolian nomadic costumes are further divided into three kinds; Ching's or Russian's details applied to Mongolian nomadic costumes(Taekeum(大襟), Majesu(馬蹄袖), white choker), Ching's court costume imported as it is for the political purpose(Kijang(기장)), resistance against foreign countries and the spirit of nomadic people and independence reflected in Mongol costumes('Teregur ushi', 'Correct bosom'). Specially, Nomadic symbols constitute Mongolian spiritual world and clothing habits, especially evident in ladies' dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.176-186
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.363-371
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• 1988

The present paper mainly conerns with the four controversial issues: the exact period in which the Cholik was introduced into Korea, the morphological characteristics, the phonological and semantic aspects of the term itself. First, upon the political and serial ground, the Cholik was introduced at the later part of mid-koryo dynasty. Second, the original form of 'Cholik' was modeled after the Mongolian 'pyok-jok-po', an outwear with pleated skirt. Third, the term 'cholik' was derived from Mongolian 'terlig'. It came through China with the Chinese letters but the term maintained the Mongolian sound. The variety of the present pronunciations like 'chorik', 'chonik', 'chomni' and various notations in Chinese letters could be attributed to different phonological changes and analogy. Last, th original meaning of cholik was somewhat similar to 'militia' or 'soldier', but the social function of the wearer gradually discolored to indicate only the costume for lower officials or the military uniform.