• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권7호
• /
• pp.987-996
• /
• 2005

For cationization, if chitosan, which has the affinity for a human body and reacts easily without inducing any pollution, is used, cationization of Tencel blended fabrics can be expected and further expansion of its use as a new susceptible material can be expected. Therefore, in this study, in order to compare a Tencel/cotton and a Tencel/Cotton/PET as Tencel blended fabrics with a Tencel single fabric, the fabric samples were used and processed with chitosan after NaOH pretreatment and enzyme treatment thereof, and then its adherent efficiency was enhanced by using a crosslinking agent, and then it was got to be finished with a softener. The fibril of Tencel fabric was controlled by enzyme treatment so that the surface of the Tencel blended fabrics got to be smooth. Chitosan adhered to the surface of the Tencel blended fabrics in the form of particles through its processing with chitosan. Chitosan treatment caused little change in the crystal structure thereof and the thermal stability of the Tencel/Cotton/PET fabric was slightly improved. The total hand value(THV) calculated on the basis of the change due to chitosan treatment was increased in all samples.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권11호
• /
• pp.1572-1582
• /
• 2006

In this study, in order to compare a Tencel/cotton and a Tencel/Cotton/PET as Tencel blended fabrics with a Tencel fabric, the fabric samples were treated with chitosan after NaOH pretreatment and enzyme treatment thereof, And then its adherent efficiency was enhanced by using a crosslinking agent. After that, it was treated with a softener. In chitosan treatment, the functions of moisture regain, tensile strength, air permeability and crease resistance were more improved in the Tencel blended fabrics than in the Tencel fabric. Thus, it may be thought that the physical properties of the Tencel blended fabrics were more effectively modified than those of the Tencel fabric. And the friction charged voltage was very much reduced in all samples, so that chitosan treatment was effective for prevention of electrostatic charge. Further, chitosan finishing treatment improved remarkably the antibacterial activity in all samples regardless of the type of strains.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권12호
• /
• pp.1672-1681
• /
• 2007

텐셀 혼방직물의 단점을 보완하면서 새로운 관능기를 도입하기 위해서는 캐티온화가 효과적이다. 이를 위해 인체 친화성이 있고 공해를 유발하지 않으며 반응이 용이한 키토산을 처리하였으며, 이에 의한 캐티 온화를 확인하기 위하여 음이온성 염료에 대한 염색성 변화를 살펴보았다. 먼저, 반응성 염료와의 염색성은 낮은 중성염의 농도에서도 키토산 처리 시료의 염색성이 우수하게 나타나 반응성 염료에 대한 염색 효율이 증대되었다. 이는 키토산의 아민기 도입으로 텐셀 혼방직물이 캐터온화되어 섬유에 치환된 친핵성기에 의해 반응성 염료에 대한 친화력이 향상됨으로서 중성이하의 조건에서도 염색성이 우수하게 나타난 것이다. 한편, 키토산 처리로 도입된 아민기의 작용으로 산성 염료와 친화력이 거의 없는 텐셀 혼방직물의 산성 염료에 대한 염색성이 크게 향상되었다. 또한 키토산 처리로 인하여 텐셀 혼방직물은 반응성 염료와의 친화력이 더 좋아졌고, 텐셀 단일직물의 경우 산성 염료와의 친화력이 더 좋아졌으며, 산성 염료보다 반응성 염료로 염색시 세탁견뢰도가 더 우수하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.43-51
• /
• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.17-27
• /
• 2017

This study evaluated the performance of bedding fabrics consisting of warp (150d/144f, polyester) and weft (polyester, Tencel and cotton MVS blended spun yarn) with blend ratio of weft. We measured electrostatic propensity, moisture properties, pilling properties and mechanical properties of the fabrics for this study. F-P fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. However, tensile properties and electrostatic propensity were relatively inferior to other characteristic values. Significant static electricity may make F-P fabric uncomfortable. F-P7C3 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Static electricity may make F-P7C3 fabric uncomfortable; in addition, F-P5C5 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Rough and stiff hand feel were expected to increase because tensile properties decreased and surface properties increased. F-C fabric showed outstanding pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. However, it showed inferior moisture control properties. F-P5T4C1 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties, pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. Several properties are outstanding; however, the hand feels are very rough and stiff from bending. The water evaporation and static electricity increased with increasing polyester content. As the content of cotton increased, tensile properties were improved. However, water evaporation and static electricity decreased. The addition of Tencel increased the thickness and compression energy so that it exhibited a soft characteristic upon compression and an excellent moisture control properties, but the surface became somewhat coarse.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.1020-1029
• /
• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권5호
• /
• pp.648-655
• /
• 2017

This study measured dyeing properties under different dyeing conditions and levels of antimicrobial activity when man-made fibers are dyed with gallnut, including rayon, tencel, tencel blended fabric, soybean fiber, and nylon non-mordanted. The dye up-take (K/S), color ($L^*a^*b^*$), and color differences (${\Delta}E$) were measured with a colorimeter, and the number of bacteria present in the dyed fabrics were determined using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia as strains. The results are as follows: First, the optimal dyeing conditions for man-made fibers dyed with gallnut are 60 minutes of dyeing time and a $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Second, gallnut dye is most effective on soybean fiber and then, in descending order of effectiveness, on nylon, rayon, tencel, and tencel blended fabric. This means that dyeing properties of nitrogen containing fibers are excellent when using gallnut. Third, all man-made fibers are dyed brown with gallnut. This implies dyeing possibility of man-made fibers about gallnut dye, so development and supply of natural dyed goods of man-made fibers can be increased. Fourth, in all man-made fibers dyed with gallnut extract, both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia show 99.9% reduction ratios of fungistasis, which indicate antimicrobial activity. Therefore, safe, functional, man-made materials can be developed to relieve symptoms from and treat patients with skin ailments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권3호
• /
• pp.173-180
• /
• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권12호
• /
• pp.1477-1485
• /
• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.