• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2003

The character of Plain Weaved Silks at the end of the Joseon Period from Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are as follows. 1. Plain Weaved Silks recorded in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are Ju(주) 22 types, Cho(초) 13 types and Gyeon(견) 3 types. This is same as previous research where Ju(주) and Cho(초) were subdivided and diversified at the end of Joseon Period, but Gyeon(견) gradually disappeared, leaving only Ju(주) and Cho(초) 2. Plain weaved silks whose character have been examined are Gajiju(개지주), Nujuju(노주주), Nobangju(노방주), Bangsaju(방사주), Simnyangju(십량주), Hapsaju(합사주), Suju(수주), Toju(토주), Sukcho(숙초), Ryeoncho(연초), Gungcho(궁초), Byeol$$\mu$goyeongcho(별문고영초), Hujigyeon(후지견), 3. According to the differences in values and value scales written in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절), Ju(주) had various kinds of silks and Ju(주) are classified by qualities into two groups, the higher qualified group A or the lower qualified group B. On the contrary, Cho(초) and Gyeon(견) had only a few kinds, not as many as Ju(주), but all were high quality. Among them the most valuable plain weaved silks were Seoyang$$\mu$ju(서양문주), Hapsaju(합사주), Byeol$$\mu$goyeongcho(별문고영초). 4. According to Pobaekcheok(포백척) of Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) which shows real sizes, Ju(주) had various length and widths, but Cho(초) had one unified length and width.