• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권6호
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• pp.1302-1319
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• 2024

This study was performed to suggest a novel method of sustainably dyeing textiles with biofunctions for skin health by using natural seabuckthorn leaf extract. Mongolian seabuckthorn leaves were extracted in hot water to create a solid dye powder to be characterized by UV/Vis and FT-IR, and its biological activities were examined. A silk woven fabric was dyed with the seabuckthorn leaf extract under a variety of conditions to identify optimum dyeing conditions along with color fastness. To assess the skin-friendly functions of the dyed fabric, its UV-protective properties and antimicrobial activities were investigated quantitatively. As a result, the fabric showed maximum dye uptake (K/S) under the conditions of 80 ℃ and 60 min, which was improved under acidic conditions. The dyeing fastness mostly showed good and excellent grades in perspiration, rubbing, and dry cleaning, while it showed a fair grade in fastness to light. The silk dyed at 30% or higher concentrations showed superior UV-protective properties and provided excellent antimicrobial efficacy (99.9% bacterial reduction rate) against both S. aureus and K. pneumoniae. These results could be utilized in designing biofunctional textiles by natural dyeing with seabuckthorn leaf extract.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2015

Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.533-557
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• 2023

Implementing a rural revitalization strategy will help spread traditional culture and promote the sustainable development of traditional handicrafts. Batik is a traditional handicraft made by residents in China's minority areas in their daily lives. This study was conducted because of a lack of objective methods for evaluating related project plans. This study was conducted to develop an index for the sustainable development of functional traditional batik production. This study had three major parts. The first part was a literature review that investigated sustainable and traditional batik dyeing and a field investigation carried out in Shitou Village, Danzhai County and Danzhai Paimo Village, Anshun, Guizhou to identify the factors that influence traditional batik production. The second part identified the factors identified in previous research that affect sustainable, traditional batik production and the projects executed to do the same. The third part was a survey conducted using the Delphi method. The results were analyzed, producing 10 influencing and 23 detailed factors that affect traditional batik production. Future research in this area should draw on various disciplines, investigate the direction in which traditional batik production is developing, and determine how to promote the sustainable development of other traditional handicrafts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.673-689
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• 2023

To realize the traceability of sustainable textile products, this study presents a low-carbon process through energy savings in the textile material manufacturing process. Traceability is becoming an important element of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), which confirms the eco-friendliness of textile products as well as supply chain information. Textile products with complex manufacturing processes require traceability of each step of the process to calculate carbon emissions and power usage. Additionally, an understanding of the characteristics of the product planning-manufacturing-distribution process and an overall understanding of carbon emissions sources are required. Energy use in the textile material manufacturing stage produces the largest amount of carbon dioxide, and the amount of carbon emitted from processes such as dyeing, weaving and knitting can be calculated. Energy saving methods include efficiency improvement and energy recycling, and carbon dioxide emissions can be reduced through waste heat recovery, sensor-based smart systems, and replacement of old facilities. In the dyeing process, which uses a considerable amount of heat energy, LNG, steam can be saved by using "heat exchangers," "condensate management traps," and "tenter exhaust fan controllers." In weaving and knitting processes, which use a considerable amount of electrical energy, about 10- 20% of energy can be saved by using old compressors and motors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.411-423
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• 2024

This study examined the dyeability and functionality of silk fabrics dyed using shiitake mushroom pins discarded in large quantities on mushroom farms. FT-IR and UV-Vis spectral analyses showed that polyphenols and flavonoids were present in the hot-water extract of shiitake mushroom pins. Optimal dyeing conditions for silk fabrics were a dye concentration of 50% (v/v), dyeing temperature of 80℃, dyeing time of 60 minutes, and dyebath pH of 5.3. The post-mordant method showed a greater effect on the increase in dye uptake and color change than the pre-mordant method. Unmordanted fabrics appeared as a YR Munsell color. Except for the Cu-mordant, all post-mordanted fabrics produced a Y Munsell color. The FE-SEM/EDX analysis confirmed that the natural iron solution and mud contained various metal ions. The Fe component was found to have the greatest effect on the dye uptake and color properties. The colorfastness of the unmordanted fabrics to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and perspiration was excellent (above grade 4), whereas light was grade 3-4. In the case of post-mordanted fabrics with a natural iron solution, the colorfastness to washing, wet rubbing, and light improved by 0.5 grades. For post-mordanted fabrics with mud, the colorfastness to light and sweat improved by 0.5 grades. The bacterial reduction rate for staphylococcus aureus in fabrics dyed with shiitake mushroom pin extract was excellent at over 99.9%, the bacterial reduction rate for klebsiella pneumoniae was 98.1%, and the deodorization rate was excellent at 90%. These results indicate that shiitake mushroom pins can be used as a sustainable, functional natural dye.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.132-146
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• 2022

To explore the potential use of Ecklonia cava as a natural dye for textiles, silk fabric was dyed with Ecklonia cava extracted by hot water under varied conditions, including temperature, duration, dye concentration, mordanting, and pH adjustment. The fabric was also evaluated for fastness, sun-protective property, and deodorization. Ecklonia cava extract was estimated by FT-IR to have polyphenol as a main functional colorant in plants, while the existence of phlorotannins through the UV-spectrum method was also confirmed. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a temperature of 80℃ for a duration of 50 minutes along all dye concentrations. The dyed fabric showed a hue of Yellow Red under all dyeing conditions while additional color tones, such as grayish and dark, were generated through mordanting and pH adjustment. Both good sun-protective properties and a positive deodorization rate were also recorded, with more than 20% (owf) Ecklonia cava extract on silk fabric. These results imply that Ecklonia cava has great potential to be used as an eco-friendly natural dye and in fashion goods with skin-health functions made of silk.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.73-86
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• 2024

Addressing the environmental impact of textile waste, this study explores upcycling as a sustainable fashion solution, particularly focusing on the upcycling of discarded fishing nets, which are a significant source of marine pollution. In 2018, South Korea alone produced 193.3 tons of clothing waste, refelcting a global trend, where textile waste exceedsed 92 million tons. The research methodology involved a literature review and case studies on upcycled fashion, focusing on discarded fishing nets. Designs for three outfits targeting women in their twenties were proposed and a survey was carried out to assess the their perception of upcycled fashion and the design's appeal and practicality. Under the theme, 'Marine Spirit,' the study aimed to raise awareness of marine pollution, drawing inspiration from the ocean's vibrant life. The designs diverge from the monotonous 'Casual Glam' trend, and incorporate vivid colors and asymmetrical structures for visual appeal. The practical application of fishing nets varied across the pieces, serving as fillers in transparent PVC padded coats and decorative elements in skirts and puff dresses. The distinctive properties of fishing nets provide a unique aesthetic, which resonated well with the target audience. Despite challenges in adopting eco-friendly dyeing methods and assessing mass production feasibility, the study underscores the need for continued research in sustainable textile processing. The study reaffirms the importance of sustainable fashion, highlighting the creative potential of fishing nets as a material.