• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

This study aims to identify the design of men's wear that has the characteristics of expressing maximalism in men's wear collection and contribute to the field of men's wear fashion which expects new, original, and experimental fashion styles to be created. When it comes to research contents, this study first identifies the concept and characteristics of expression of maximalism in such fields as literature and art and based on this, makes a case study of men's wear fashion designs shown in men's wear collection and then understands the type of characteristics of expressing maximalism and the characteristics related to its expressive method in men's wear design. The study findings are as follows: First, expansion referred to the extreme avant-garde that changed the concept of fashion design by expanding clothes or accessories or exaggerating silhouettes. Second, fanciness continued to appear as a tool to use the luxurious decorations that applied fancy handicraft techniques and express the world of original design. Third, fusion represented the expression of various charms from one work without making any classifications between the tradition and the present and between the east and the west. Fourth, fantasy indicated the expression of surrealistic images by expressing the unbounded imagination through creative ideas.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.107-119
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to explore ways toward the hat design development by looking into the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the works of Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of the important fashion accessories. This study concretely investigates the formative characteristics of Treacy's hats in terms of shapes, materials, colours and decorations. According to this study, the shape of his hats shows the natural and specific objects in three dimensions, not in basic shape of hats. He uses combination of a variety of materials, adding unique materials to existing ones, so that they not only create a specific atmosphere but also extend the limitation which used to be thought as materials for hats. In the field of colour, he mainly used black and white until 1999, but since 2000 he has been using vivid and splendid colors. And he uses feathers or nets for decorations of the hats. As the result of the comprehensive analysis of Treacy's works, this study characterizes his works by surrealistic, three-dimensional, rhythmic and future-oriented. Therefore, Philip Treacy's hat design can be defined three dimensional considering the formative beauty, and can be characterized by use of unique materials, vivid & bold colours, moderate decorations, f variety of lines, and asymmetrical structures. These characteristics show surrealistic, three-dimensional and futuristic message which rhythm can be felt. He presents unlimited capability in hat designs as a representative of human being's basic will for creating new ones beyond this real world. It is considered that this study can help broaden the limitation of the hat design which used to repeat simple forms in the Past and help explore ways for developmental direction of hat design in the future.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.137-147
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• 1998

Fahion as the form construction of decon-structivistic architecture was analyzed by dividing it into the intrinsic aspect and the formal aspect through an introduction of three characteristic architectural principles into fashion. Intrinsic deconstructivistic fashion as the construction of architectural form has the mixurte of genders both in a form of transvestic and in a form of genderless look as dualism, and can be characterized by pluralistic nationlism with the emergence of the Third World alienated from the international society, and so forth. Difference and the prefixes of dis-and de- are schizophrenic mystic illusionism, chance effect and the differance of space and time and is supporting Jacques Derrida's chiasmus that is the perspective of collage in painting and the multiple observation of collage in painting and the multiple observation point as the play of borrowing the surrealistic technique. The formal construction of deconstructivistic fashion the construction of architectural form has intertextuality material, hybridization of items and the blending of modes and another sphere. Trace as icon deconstrucion attains historical analysis. Dis and de in fashion are showing the retrogre-ssion of gravity through decomposition, decon-tinuity and disjunction emerge nonstructural silho-uette, juxtaposition, inversion and replace- ment of underwear and outer garments. Their decentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in functional terms.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.122-136
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• 2013

This study supplements clothes by studying pleasure shown in accessories of haute couture designers and finds out pleasant characteristics represented in items which play an important role in producing personalities through collections, so the study aims at prospecting design development directions accessories henceforth. For the study period and methods, 295 photo materials were analyzed being judged to show pleasure centered on Mode et Mode, representative fashion magazine, from 2005 S/S Paris haute couture collections to 2013 S/S Paris haute couture collections. At this time, the photos analyses were conducted and selected by two experts (Ph. D holders majored in fashion design) through two times. After analyzing pleasure features represented in fashion collection focused on haute couture accessories, I could know that surrealistic pleasure, anonymity-expressing pleasure, natural pleasure, and exaggerative pleasure were shown. The pleasure, as element that supplements and emphasizes clothes, has had an effect on bringing laughs characteristically.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.415-443
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• 1994

This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit of humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern costume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform costume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angels, and thus it suggested new aesthetic conception different from general conception of the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-said, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only ring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.380-392
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate a comparison between method of depaysement of Surrealism and modern costume. Surrealism was based on Freud's theory of uncon\ulcornersciousness and Hegelian dialectic. I found that its method of expression and inspiration have a continuous influence on a field of fashion through preceding study. Surrealism stimulated Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) to make creative and innovative costume which created a sensatio.i1 the world of fashion in 1930. And it have been influence on modern fashion. From this point of view, I examined surrealistic painter of Rene Magritte (1898-1967) to use shocking method of depaysement through literature and photographes. And I made researches on Paris London collcetions from 1989 to 1994 in the cause of analysis a comparison with depaysement in painting of R. Magritte. As the result of analysising main works of R.Magritte according classification of Suzi Gabric (an art critic), he was expressive of usual object in various of depaysement. I also proved that modern fashion which was new shocking, innovative and avant-garde presented unconsciousness through these expression of depaysement with common subject. In consequence, the method of expression of surrealism have been a durable influence on modern costume.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2010

This study was to define the factors of inspiration and expression methods of Viktor & Rolf known for distinctive works in order to find the ways of creative fashion designing. For the research method, the literature reviews were done by designer's books, collection reviews, and related articles. To find the ideas of design inspiration, interview data with Viktor & Rolf were used. The results of this study were as follows. Their conceptional attitude and the fashion shows like performance indicated that the designer's introspection became the origin of the concept and the ideas expanded the fields of expression. The expression of surrealistic fantasy was done by free imagination and daydreams, which was appeared as fantastical world beyond the everyday life. The expression of paradox and contrast overcame stereotype views with inversion, paradox, and ironical expression. The distortion of shape and the extreme exaggeration by overlap and repetition had a intention that magnity the miserable self-images on purpose, which had started from the debut and appeared ever after on collections and which sought the practicality, infinity exceeding the standard of ideal beauty. The harmony between classicism and avant-guard originated from the insights of tradition demonstrated the wits of designers showing the unique ideas with the base of classics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.549-561
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• 2001

Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.501-512
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• 2015

This study was to consider and analyze of fashion window display design at Printemps department store in Paris, France which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy. The framework for analysis of this study was established by related precedent studies. Data collection was done by searching related specialty publications and website of Printemps department store, and the results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results are as follows. Printemps department store set up presentation types of fashion window display design's themes that have been developed by the method of display presentation such as symbolic, ambience, surrealistic, realistic, and information. The most frequently used presentation development techniques applied in windows' VP of Printemps were the 'transferal of daily space', 'transferal of unexpected space', 'exaggeration of animal & plant', and 'descriptive narrative scene.' In addition, the display theme components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, unique directing props, the memory or childhood, the image of animal or plant, and lighting etc. We found that the major colors of window display design at Printemps department store were purple, blue and black during the period from 2009 to 2014.