• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.35-55
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to get some pieces of prior information to eventually develop competitive swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images. The study has been accomplished in following steps. First, as theoretical research, the history of swimming suit design and the requirements in designing competitive swimming suits were studied. Second, as practical research, at first, the trend of the competitive swimming suit designs in the national swimming suit market was examined. And then. the questionnaire surveys of both professional and amateur swimmers about their design preferences with purchasing and fabric-related tendencies were conducted for understanding professionals' characters more exactly. This data were analyzed through cross-analysis and multi-response analysis and x 2 was used. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First, athletes' preferential design tendency for the swimming suit designs were examined in the aspects of style, color, pattern, logo, and accessary. In style, female athletes preferred an athletic one-piece style and male ones preferred a brief style. In color. neutral, mostly black was preferred most and cold color group like dark blue and navy blue next, regardless of sex. In addition, they preferred similar color coordination. In pattern, though solid fabrics were mostly preferred in both sexes, especially Taeguk motive were considered the most appropriate pattern to show Korean image. Besides, logo was considered importantly, and swimming caps and goggles of accessaries were generally used. Second, athletes' swimming suit purchasing tendency was as a following. the number of swimming suits possessed was more than 4 pieces. the durable period was less than 3 months. and the most important point considered in purchasing was an easy fitting for men and a design with an easy fitting for women. And most of swimming athletes preferred foreign products than domestic ones, which was attributed to excellent quality, easy fitting, and good design. and so on. Third, in fabric-related tendency, food touch, easy fitting. and opaqueness were considered importantly. and durability to chlorine, elasticity, color fastness, easy draining, lightness, and so on were demanded forward.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.864-870
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• 2000

The purpose of this study were to investigate clothing design preference (style, color, fabric print, kinds of fabrics) & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing for older Men. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 650 older men in seoul from June to August, 1998. Employing a sample of 504 data were analyzed by mean, frequency and percent. With respect to clothing design preference, they prefer suit the style of outdoor clothing on going-out. On distinguish clothing into formal wear & casual wear, the color preference due to seasons has difference in spring clothing. Regarding the degree of fabric pattern preference, nonpattern single color fabric has occupied in formal wear, pattern in casual wear. Regarding the degree of fabric preference, they take a serious view of shape preservation in formal wear, utility (washing, sweat absorption) in causal wear. Suit has the lowest satisfaction in the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. Sleeve length the lowest in the degree of satisfaction for each part.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.75-88
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• 1995

The objectives of this study were to classify the contents of clothing shopping orientation, to group women into shopper types, and to examine the differences in clothing purchase criteria according to the shopper types. Samples were 335 women(20-49 years of age) in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, X2 test, paired t-test, multiple regression analysis. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Five factors of clothing shopping orientation derived by factor analysis : F.1 'impulsive shopping' ; F.2 'rational shopping' ; F.3 'independent shopping' ; F.4 'economic shopping' ; F.5 'convenient shopping'. Three shopper types were classified by cluster analysis of the 5 factors : T.1 'convenient shopper' ; T.2 'impulsive shopper' ; T.3 'rational shopper'. 2. Significant differences were found among the 3 shopper types in all clothing purchase criteria. Rational shopper perceived all purchase criteria as more important than did the other 2 types. Impulsive shopper perceived 'fashion', 'attractiveness', 'style', and 'bland' as more important than did convenient shopper. 3. Married women and unemployed women were more distributed in rational shopper, while the unmarried and the employed more in impulsive shopper. Impulsive shopper used more credit care, purchased suits and blouses at department store and brand specialty store more than did rational shopper. Rational shopper purchased at discount store and wholesale store more than did impulsive shopper. 4. Women assessed 'color and fabric design' as most important in suit and blouse purchase criteria. 'Care' was perceived more important in blouses than in suits, and the other 9 purchase criteria(fashion, attractiveness, style, color and fabric design, fabric, durability, costruction, comfort, and brand) were perceived more important in suits than in blouses. 5. Rational and economic shopping orientation scores were higher in suit purchase than in blouse, while impulsive, independent, and convenient shopping orientation scores were higher in blouse purchase. 6. Post-purchase suit satisfaction was influenced by rational shopping orientation, educational level, style, income, and comfort. The explanatory power of the 5 variables was 17.2%. Post-purchase blouse satisfaction was influenced by style, care, rational shopping orientation, and independent shopping orientation. The explanatory power of the 4 variables was 10.2%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.105-113
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.