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A Study on the Ornaments in Western Dress History (서양 복식사에 나타난 의상장식에 관한 연구)

  • 이순홍
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.20-46
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    • 2003
  • This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

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Nano Bio Imaging for NT and BT

  • Moon, DaeWon
    • Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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    • 2015.08a
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    • pp.51.2-51.2
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    • 2015
  • Understanding interfacial phenomena has been one of the main research issues not only in semiconductors but only in life sciences. I have been trying to meet the atomic scale surface and interface analysis challenges from semiconductor industries and furthermore to extend the application scope to biomedical areas. Optical imaing has been most widely and successfully used for biomedical imaging but complementary ion beam imaging techniques based on mass spectrometry and ion scattering can provide more detailed molecular specific and nanoscale information In this presentation, I will review the 27 years history of medium energy ion scattering (MEIS) development at KRISS and DGIST for nanoanalysis. A electrostatic MEIS system constructed at KRISS after the FOM, Netherland design had been successfully applied for the gate oxide analysis and quantitative surface analysis. Recenlty, we developed time-of-flight (TOF) MEIS system, for the first time in the world. With TOF-MEIS, we reported quantitative compositional profiling with single atomic layer resolution for 0.5~3 nm CdSe/ZnS conjugated QDs and ultra shallow junctions and FINFET's of As implanted Si. With this new TOF-MEIS nano analysis technique, details of nano-structured materials could be measured quantitatively. Progresses in TOF-MEIS analysis in various nano & bio technology will be discussed. For last 10 years, I have been trying to develop multimodal nanobio imaging techniques for cardiovascular and brain tissues. Firstly, in atherosclerotic plaque imaging, using, coherent anti-stokes raman scattering (CARS) and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF-SIMS) multimodal analysis showed that increased cholesterol palmitate may contribute to the formation of a necrotic core by increasing cell death. Secondly, surface plasmon resonance imaging ellipsometry (SPRIE) was developed for cell biointerface imaging of cell adhesion, migration, and infiltration dynamics for HUVEC, CASMC, and T cells. Thirdly, we developed an ambient mass spectrometric imaging system for live cells and tissues. Preliminary results on mouse brain hippocampus and hypotahlamus will be presented. In conclusions, multimodal optical and mass spectrometric imaging privides overall structural and morphological information with complementary molecular specific information, which can be a useful methodology for biomedical studies. Future challenges in optical and mass spectrometric imaging for new biomedical applications will be discussed.

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An Analysis of Codes on Brand Image in Fashion Advirtsing (의류 광고에 나타난 상표 이미지의 코드 분석)

  • 한명숙;나수임
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.68-79
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    • 1997
  • In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

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Data Acquisition of Time Series from Stationary Ergodic Random Process Spectrums (정상 에르고드성을 가지는 확률과정 스펙트럼에 대한 합리적 시계열 데이터 확보)

  • Park, Jun-Bum;Kim, Kyung-Su;Choung, Joon-Mo;Kim, Jae-Woo;Yoo, Chang-Hyuk;Ha, Yeong-Su
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.120-126
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    • 2011
  • The fatigue damages in structural details of offshore plants can be accumulated due to various environmental loadings such as swell, wave, wind and current. It is known that load histories acting on mooring and riser systems show stationary and ergodic bimodal wide-banded process. This paper provides refined approach to obtain time signals representing stress range histories from wide-banded bimodal spectrum which consists of ideally narrow-banded and fully separated two spectrums. Variations of the probabilistic characteristics for time signals according to frequency and sampling time increments are compared with the reference data to be the probabilistic characteristics such as zero-crossing period, peak period, and irregularity factor obtained from an assumed ideal spectrum. It is proved that the sampling time increment more affects on the probabilistic characteristics than frequency increment. The fatigue damages according to the frequency and sampling time increments are also compared with the ones with minimum increment condition which are thought to be exact fatigue damage. It is concluded that the maximum sampling time increment to obtain reliable time signals should be determined that ratio of applied maximum sampling time increment and minimum period is less than approximately 0.08.

The formativeness of Maximalism expressed in the modern women's collection - Focusing on the women's collection from 2011 to 2016 - (현대 여성복 컬렉션에 표현된 맥시멀리즘의 조형성에 관한 연구 - 2011년 ~ 2016년 여성복 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Kyung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to contribute to the development of the women's fashion field with the goal of creating creative and experimental fashion styles through the categorization of cases of women's fashion design expressed with Maximalism, a type of expression used in modern fashion, as well as analyzing and examining the formativeness of this style. Qualitative research was conducted through a literature review and design case analysis. The scope of this research was from 2011 S/S to 2016 F/W, and the regional scope included the women's collections from Paris, Milano, London and New York. The results acquired are as follows. Initially, exaggeration was expressed through excessively exaggerating the overall silhouette of clothing or exaggeratedly distorting certain parts of the overall silhouette. Secondly, decoration was expressed through the use of the same colors and materials and the addition of excessive details and trimmings to express an exaggerated style of clothing as well as to express a luxurious and handcrafted style of clothing. Thirdly, fusion was expressed through integrating multiple items from different cultures, deconstruction, which destroys the concept of gender and use of clothing, and fashion style that transcends time and space. Fourthly, non-structurality was expressed through differentiating multiple weight feelings applied to the left/right sides of clothing or expressing a structural designs that is asymmetrical to the upper/lower/left/right directions to create a silhouette that displays a creative avant-garde style. As examined above, it was found that the maximalism expressed in fashion after 2011 created new images and expressed maximized emotional orientations through the exaggerated use of multiple silhouettes and decorations or through the integration of colors, patterns, ages and images. Through this process, maximalism is expected to not only provide an infinite possibility to the modern fashion that pursues diversification and multiplication, but also serve as an example that represents diversified post-modernism fashion trends in the future.

DETECTION AND RESTORATION OF NON-RADIAL VARIATION OVER FULL-DISK SOLAR IMAGES

  • Yang, Yunfei;Lin, Jiaben;Feng, Song;Deng, Hui;Wang, Feng;Ji, Kaifan
    • Journal of The Korean Astronomical Society
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    • v.46 no.5
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    • pp.191-200
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    • 2013
  • Full-disk solar images are provided by many solar telescopes around the world. However, the observed images show Non-Radial Variation (NRV) over the disk. In this paper, we propose algorithms for detecting distortions and restoring these images. For detecting NRV, the cross-correlation coefficients matrix of radial profiles is calculated and the minimum value in the matrix is defined as the Index of Non-radial Variation (INV). This index has been utilized to evaluate the H images of GONG, and systemic variations of different instruments are obtained. For obtaining the NRV's image, a Multi-level Morphological Filter (MMF) is designed to eliminate structures produced by solar activities over the solar surface. Comparing with the median filter, the proposed filter is a better choice. The experimental results show that the effect of our automatic detection and restoration methods is significant for getting a flat and high contrast full-disk image. For investigating the effect of our method on solar features, structural similarity (SSIM) index is utilized. The high SSIM indices (close to 1) of solar features show that the details of the structures remain after NRV restoring.

Hydro-forming Process Development of Automotive AA6061 Rear Sub-frame Side Member by Computer Aided Engineering (CAE) (컴퓨터 시뮬레이션(CAE)을 이용한 자동차용 AA6061 리어 서브-프레임 사이드멤버의 하이드로-포밍 공정 개발)

  • Kim, Kee-Joo;Kim, Jae-Hyun;Choi, Byung-Ik
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Automotive Engineers
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.45-49
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    • 2010
  • The automotive industry has shown a growing interest in tube hydroforming during the past years. The advantages of hydroforming (less thinning, a more efficient manufacturing process, etc.) can, for instance, be combined with the high strength of extra high strength steels, which are usually less formable, to produce structural automotive components which exhibit lower weight and improved service performance. Design and production of tubular components require knowledge about tube material and forming behavior during hydroforming and how the hydroforming operation itself should be controlled. These issues are studied analytically in the present paper. In this study, the whole process of rear sub-frame parts development by tube hydroforming using AA6061 material is presented. At the part design stage, it requires feasibility study and process design aided by CAE (Computer Aided Engineering) to confirm hydroformability in details. Effects of parameters such as internal pressure, axial feeding and geometry shape in automotive rear sub-frame by hydroforming process were carefully investigated. Overall possibility of hydroformable rear sub-frame parts could be examined by cross sectional analyses. Moreover, it is essential to ensure the formability of tube material on every forming step such as pre-bending and hydroforming. In addition, all the components of prototyping tool are designed and interference with press is examined from the point of geometry and thinning.

A Study on a Design for the Korean Coast Guard Uniform (한국 해양경찰복제 디자인 연구)

  • Lee, Jae-Jung;Kim, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.5
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    • pp.1-20
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    • 2011
  • As a follow-up of a study on design strategies to improve Korea's Korean coast guarduniforms, this study set out to propose Korean coast guard uniforms of a new concept that would meet the changing needs of the times and match the advanced technology and work environments. Three concepts of classical, nautical and techno chic were identified from the design strategies of the previous study. Using the results from a prototype show and preference survey, the investigator divided items into design, color, material, and detail and reflects demands for each of them. As a result, design was examined in four aspects of identity, acknowledgement, unity, and practicality and focused its improvement factors on design differentiated from other organizations' uniforms including ground police, segmentation of size system, adjustment of the length of upper garment to consider activity, and changes to the lines and silhouette to give out a modern image. As for color, the focus was placed on differentiated colors from other organizations' uniforms including ground police through dark blue and ocean color, change toward colors that reflect environmental characteristics, and unity in colors between the summer and winter uniform. As for material, the focus of improvement was put on elasticity, resistance against contamination, warmth retention, texture, wearing sensation, and functionality by taking into account convenience for field workers on coast guard vessels and branch offices who have much time in contact with ocean environments in order to make the materials high-grade. As for detail, structural details were added to give out a modern image such as changing the detail lines, efficiency of storage space, buttons, sleeve hems, ironing lines, and neck collars by taking into account environmental characteristics. The significance of the study lies in that it proposed a development model for large-scale uniform copy design by establishing copy design that secures functionality and is proper for an organization's social and cultural environment.

A Review of IOSS Design Standardization Technology for Aluminum Alloy Handrail of Offshore Platform

  • Kim, Yeon-Ho;Park, Joo-Shin;Shin, Hyun-Chang;Kim, Sung-Jun;Park, Dae-Kyeom;Ha, Yeon-Chul;Seo, Jung-Kwan
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.208-216
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    • 2020
  • The Integrated Offshore Standard Specification (IOSS) involves Korean shipyards, classification societies, research institutes, the Korean industrial society, engineering companies, and oil companies with the objective of reducing costs and risks without compromising safety in international offshore engineering procurement construction (EPC) projects using new standardized bulk components and qualification procedures. The activities of the IOSS include the analysis of the existing rules and regulations to achieve the best standardization, which is reflected in the best practices, and minimize the variables in regulations and rules. In addition, a standard inventory of shapes and dimensions, referred to as specifications, is proposed in the IOSS. In this paper, the aluminum tertiary standardization part (IOSS S102-1/2 S104: Specification for Structural Tertiary Design) is presented with the details of the procedures, background reviews, and cost-benefit analyses of the design and verification methods for standard designs in the IOSS standardization items. Based on the cost-benefit analysis, the application of standardized aluminum tertiary items to offshore projects has significant advantages in terms of maintenance and repair compared to the carbon steel tertiary items utilized in current industrial practices.

A Study on the Fashion Illustration Using Fractal Programs (프랙탈(Fractal) 프로그램을 응용한 패션 일러스트레이션 연구)

  • 김선아;김혜연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.2
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    • pp.181-192
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    • 2001
  • Men study the nature in two ways. Scientists and mathematicians inquire a branch of those two ways. Mathematical formulations are the tools and the expressions of their nature. Meanwhile, the other branch, the art, alms for different inquiry. Instead of formulating the nature, the artists create their masterpieces from their ultimate source, the Mother Nature. For thousands of years these two branches have grown together, influencing each others work. Some mathematicians find that formulation, are not enough to fully express the beauty of nature. It is believed that such a simple expression, formula, easily omits the careful details of nature. The nature is simply too chaotic to be shaped with a formula. Of those mathematicians, Mandelbrot, one of the first to realize this matter, introduced the world of fractal geometry. Fractals give new possibilities. It allows us not to limit ourselves to linear prospect, rather a whole new view of this chaotic beauty of the nature. A popular practice to understand fractals is in costume design. The artistic characteristic and organization mechanism is appalled to costumes. Meanwhile, another practice, rather aggressive, is using computer to create an image of fractals. This image is then used for motives to generate artistic expressions. Computer and paper ironing technique is used for fashion illustration in this research. The works were synthesized arid transformed from computer programs. To add more traditional painting touch to this work, Paper ironing technique was used. Since the of effect of this technique is so random, irregular, and unordered, it corresponds to fractal consideration. This thesis asserts an another prospect to fractal as a structural way of describing nature ailed fashion illustration, rather than restricting it to only mathematical theory.

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