• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-59
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• 2005

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the $2{\times}1$ rib stitch and $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, $2/48's{\times}2$, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of $2{\times}2$ rib stitch. In conclusion, because $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than $0{\times}0$ ad $1{\times}1$ rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.769-780
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• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.67-68
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• 2011

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.125-126
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• 2007

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-240
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• 2001

The purpose of the present study was to analyze the acceptance level of forecasted information of casual wear in tate 1990s in Korea and the way of utilizing fashion trends information by casual wear industries. The Present study was implemented by content analysis and descriptive survey using questionnaire and interview. Trends information in fashion journals published by fashion institute and articles in daily newspapers were analyzed in terms of fashion image, color, fabric, and silhouette. The data collected from questionnaire and interview with 113 fashion specialists were analyzed through frequency, percentage. The results indicated that among the forecasted information regarding fashion image, romantic and feminine images showed a high level of acceptance to national brand women's casual wear in the late 1990s, while mannish image showed a low level of acceptance. For men's casual wear in the same time period, androgynous trends appeared most frequently, not only in forecasted information, but also in actual trend. it was forecasted that yellow, white, and gray would be in trend and those colors appeared frequently in actual trend. On the other hand pastel tone appeared much more frequently than forecasted. Natural, thin - transparent (S/S) and stretch fabrics (F/W) were in actual trend as it was forecasted. Fit and Pare (woman), and long and slim (man) silhouettes were in actual trend as if was forecasted, but barrel silhouette appeared only in forecasted information. Most of the information forecasting fashion trends for next season were applied to the product planning of the season, right after the information comes out.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.165-176
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of various knitted fabrics of sports socks on their properties of hygiene and stability. Seventeen men\`s sports socks to represent five groups with different fiber content, knit structure, yarn fineness, and finishing were used. Properties of hygiene and stability of socks were determined. The results were as follows ; 1. Evaluation of Water, vapor and heat transport properties in socks with varing fiber content showed that cotton 100% socks had the highest drop absorbency, wickability, water absorbency and water retention. Polypropylene 100% socks had an excellent wickability and moisture permeability. Acrylic blend socks had the highest thermal resistance. 2. The greatest knit stretch and knit growth of socks having lower power were found to be with cotton 100% socks had the lowest stretch. Acrylic blend socks had a excellent stretch but low fabric growth, which could give a good fir sensation during wear. 3. The commerical antimicrobial finished socks showed excellent durability after repeated cycles of laundering. 4. Length and width shrinkages were found in all laundered samples during initial cycles due to rearrangement by mechanical relaxation. Shrinkages showed no further changes and reached equilibriums after 5 cycles. Cotton 100% or cotton blend socks showed lower dimensional stability than other socks during fabric care.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.54-65
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• 2014

This study developed basic pattern for competition figure skating wear for school girls. Figure skating wears are difficult for making basic patterns based on standard size chart, because girls' body size are slimmer and more slender compared to the general girl's and the competition wears such as, swim suit with sleeves are, closely in contact with the player's body. The competition wears for school girl was made with consideration of changing of the body shape, physical exercises, and various specificities according to stretch material. To raise artistic effect while doing beautiful motions, and to assist in facile technique motions, competition wears need to have enough ease on the side line from waist to armpit, from armpit to wrist, and in trunk girth including crotch girth. Also, to stand out in beauty, a costume designing has a proper skirt position, length, flare width, and a tight bodice according to the player's body proportion. Most of the customers are displeased at the high price, unfitness of size, insufficient design, and difficulty in access, since they are not sold in sporting goods store. Therefore, a competition wear's basic pattern was made through scientific and emotional process including concerns on material properties, room for activities, and ideal body proportion. Systemizing the basic patterns of production method will solve high repairing expenses, unsuitable sizing, and improve accessibility for purchase.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.498-508
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop an aesthetic and functional bicycle wear for new senior women in their 50s and 60s. Based on the results of the survey, we developed bicycle wear that is friendly to bicycling posture and reflects the preference of new senior women. The results are as followed: First, emphasis is placed on the simple and functional design of the experimental wear consisting of jacket and pants. Jacket is different from the color scheme with the armhole princess line in order for the waistline to look slim. Pants are designed to hold the leg muscles tightly in order to help reduce the muscle fatigue on the bicycle ride. Second, cutting lines and coloring materials are used for the wearer to look slim and the safety of the wearer is planned to secure by inserting the reflective material along the cutting lines on the bicycle ride. Third, the pattern of the experimental wear is designed in consideration of the riding motion of the bicycle. Jacket is designed to have back length longer than front length as compared to the bicycle wears available on the market. Sewing lines in the armpit are designed to be eliminated in order to move the arms smoothly on the ride. Pants are designed to minimize the seam line in consideration of the movement of muscles and ligaments and the experimental wear is produced by combining the material with the functions of cool comfort and stretch.