• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.33-40
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• 2005

Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• Composites Research
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.136-141
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• 2015

The stitching process has been widely utilized for the improvement of through-thickness property of the conventional laminated composites. This paper reports the effects of stitching on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties of multi-axial warp knitted (MWK) composites in order to identify the mechanical property improvements. In order to minimize the geometric uncertainties associated with the stacking pattern of fabrics, the regular lay-up was considered in the examination of the stitching effect. The key parameters are as follows: the stitch spacings, the stitching types, the stitching location, and the location of compression fixture nose. These parameters have little effect on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties, except for the case of stitching location. However, the geometry variations caused by the stitching resulted in minor changes to the mechanical properties consistently. Stitching on the $0^{\circ}$ fibers showed the lowest flexural strength and modulus (12% reduction for both properties). The stitch spacing of 5 mm resulted in 8% reduction for the case of interlaminar strength compared with that of 10 mm spacing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.83-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권3호
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• pp.474-485
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• 2018

Smart sensors and connected devices have changed the concept of garments along with IT technology convergent garments that transform the performance of basic functions. Various types of products have been researched and developed due to the increased interest in smart clothing; in addition, studies based on physical and mechanical properties have also been actively studied to improve accuracy and reliability. This study represents a basic study for the development of smart textiles based on motion recognition for the surfing practice of beginners interested in IT convergence type. A physical durability evaluation of conductive yarn according to sewing method was later carried out. This study is a conditional specimen sewn with cotton lower thread and 100mm pattern length based on the results of previous studies. The durability of the conductive yarn according to the sewing method was evaluated according to the sewing method. Durability was evaluated by two kinds of repeated strain and abrasion tests. The specimen with applied cotton in a lower thread zigzag pattern 2mm stitch size 100mm stitch length was shown to have the most suitable durability for smart textile.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

동아대학교박물관에 소장된 <초충도수병(草蟲圖繡屛)>(이하 <수병>)은 보물 제595호로 지정되어 있으며 초충도 회화작품보다 더 정교하고 섬세한 사실적 표현과 다채한 입체적 구성으로 미술사 분야에서 그 가치가 높이 평가되어 왔다. 그러나 <수병>이 자수 작품임에도 불구하고 현재까지 섬유공예적 측면에서의 분석과 연구는 이루어지지 않았다. 본고에서는 <수병>의 바탕직물, 자수색사, 자수기법 등을 과학적 기기를 사용하여 조사 분석함으로써 <수병>의 문양소재와 섬유공예적 특징 및 <수병>이 섬유공예사에서 갖는 가치를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, <수병>은 8폭 병풍으로 이루어져 있으며 소재와 구도는 일반적인 초충도 회화작품과 유사하다. 각 폭의 주제문양은 제1폭에서부터 순서대로 오이, 맨드라미, 원추리, 여주, 패랭이, 수박, 가지, 들국화로 이루어져 있다. <수병>의 문양 중 여주는 현전하는 초충도 회화작품에서는 볼 수 없는 특별한 소재이다. 제8폭은 곤충, 파충류 등의 문양이 없이 들국화만 단독으로 시문하여 초충도의 전형적인 형식과 차별이 있다. <수병>의 직물은 지금까지 장식용 자수에서는 볼 수 없었던 검은색을 사용하여 다채한 색사를 강조하여 극대로 표현하고자 했음을 알 수 있다. 바탕직물은 5매 공단[무문단(無紋緞)]을 사용하였다. 자수사는 극히 미약하게 꼬임을 준 반푼사를 사용하였으며 꼬임의 방향은 우연이다. 한 가지 색의 단사를 사용하기도 하고 때로는 두 가지 색을 병사로 사용하거나 합연사한 혼합색을 사용하여 입체적으로 표현하였다. 색상은 열화되고 퇴색이 심하여 원래의 색은 알 수 없지만 가장 많이 사용된 색은 황색계열에서 녹색계열의 색이며 청색, 갈색, 자색 등이 비교적 잘 남아있다. 원추리, 패랭이, 딸기 등의 색은 현재 적황색으로 남아 있는데 초충도와 비교해 볼 때 원래는 주황색 또는 홍색이었을 것으로 추정된다. 자수의 기법은 대부분 표면평수를 사용하여 면을 채우고 있다. 이를 통해 색사의 낭비를 줄이고자 했던 옛 여인들의 알뜰한 지혜가 엿보인다. 평수는 면을 장식하는 비교적 간단한 자수법이지만 색사를 다양화하고 면을 분할하여, 수직, 수평, 사선평수를 배합하고 때로는 자릿수와 같이 서로 맞물리게 자수하여 다양한 질감과 양감을 표현하였다. 곤충의 몸통은 가장자리수와 이음수, 평수를 혼합하여 입체적으로 표현하고 있으며, 특히 가장자리수의 활용이 주목된다. 그 외 이음수로 잎맥 등을 입체감 있게 나타내고, 제7폭의 쇠뜨기는 표면솔잎수를 층층이 자수하여 사실적으로 표현하였다. 패랭이, 딸기, 오이 등에는 평수 위에 장식수를 더하여 세세한 묘사를 더했다. <수병>은 회화사, 문화사적으로도 가치가 크지만 한국 자수공예사에 있어서도 우수한 한국적 자수기법과 색채를 사용하여 신사임당 초충도의 모습을 가장 잘 표현하고 있는 점에서 큰 중요성을 지닌다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.551-557
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• 2013

본 논문에서는 초고압 특수 공간지를 활용한 다기능 포터블 카약을 제작하였다. 초고압 특수 공간지를 활용한 설계로 기존의 인플레터블 카약의 성능을 개선하여 하드쉘 카약의 성능에 근접하도록 제작하였다. 하드쉘 카약의 성능과 인플레터블 카약의 기능성 및 휴대성의 장점을 모두 가진 카약을 제작하였으며, 시제품 성능평가를 통해 기존 하드쉘 카약과의 성능을 비교하였다. 저항성능 검증결과는 목표속도 6knot에 대해 Hobie KONA kayak에 비해 Developed kayak이 12.33% 저항성능이 우수하였다. 경사시험결과는 동일배수량일 경우 Hobie KONA kayak 보다 Developed kayak의 무게중심이 선저를 기준으로 22.7% 낮게 분포하고 있으며, 이는 Hobie KONA kayak 보다 Developed kayak의 무게중심이 낮음으로 복원팔(GZ)에 대한 차이가 일정부분 감소된다. 선체 복원력에서는 Hobie KONA kayak이 약간 우수한 성능을 보여주었으나, 선회력과 저항계수면에서 Developed kayak이 더 우수한 결과를 보였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.175-182
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• 2017

본 와이어 본딩은 발광 다이오드의 패키징 공정에서 매우 중요한 공정으로 금 와이어를 이용하여 발광 다이오드 칩과 리드 프레임을 연결함으로써 다음 공정에서의 전기적 작동을 가능하게 한다. 와이어 본딩 공정은 얇은 금속선을 연결하는 공정으로 열 압착 본딩(thermo compression bonding)과 초음파 본딩(ultra sonic bonding)이 있다. 일반적인 와이어 본딩 공정은 LED 칩 상부 전극 부위에 볼 모양의 본딩을 진행하는 1st ball bonding 공정, loop를 형성하여 다른 전원 연결부위로 wire를 늘어뜨리는 looping 공정, 다른 전극 부위 상부에 stitch를 형성하여 bonding 하는 2nd stitch bonding으로 구분된다. 본 논문에서는 발광 다이오드 다이 본딩 공정에 영향을 주는 다양한 공정 변수에 대하여 분석을 수행하였다. 그리고 반응 표면 분석법을 통하여 Zener 다이오드 칩과 PLCC 발광 다이오드 패키지 프레임을 연결하는 공정 최적화 결과를 도출하였다. 실험 계획법은 5인자, 3수준에 대하여 설정하였으며 4가지 반응에 대하여 인자를 분석하였다. 결과적으로 본 연구에서는 모든 목표에 맞는 최적 조건을 도출하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.793-799
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• 2015

Hanboks have evolved throughout time; for example, the curved Barae has changed into a more modern and sophisticated straight one. The development of staining techniques has increased color selections with more luxurious designs. I suggested a design of Dolbok that considers functionality, practicality and economic feasibility through a comparison of past and present designs. I suggested a fusion Hanbok based on a traditional Dolbok for baby boys and girls. An abundance of cheap resources has decreased the tradition of hand down clothes; therefore, I created functional and economic methods to adjust a Hanbok for kids to wear a long time. First, I made it possible to adjust the length of a skirt by a slip stitch (or catch) stitch with a Seurandan (ornate lower band) and placed the button on shoulder part of the skirt for baby girls. The width of skirt is designed for a 4 year old instead of 1 year old to adjust the size and compensate for growing kids; however, the clothes still look stylish despite the overlapped area. Second, I made a baby boy's vest with a belt that follows traditional methods that were comfortable for width variation. Third, I made Geodeulji (sleeve-ends trimmed with wide bias) that enabled long or short sleeves. Geodeulji made with a variety of fabric colors will enhance the decorative effect. Fourth, I made the width of clothes adjustable by putting Korum (tie) ON Jeogori for baby boys and girls. There are many studies on Hanboks but few reports on modern Dolbok. I believe that designers should further study fusion Hanboks within framework of traditional Hanbok designs to increase comfort and appeal.