• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.404-417
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• 2006

The purpose of this thesis, therefore, is to examine the shaping methods and the knitting drafts of sleeve cap in the knitwears which are currently used by the manufacturers; to study the curve forms of sleeves in knitwears by analyzing synthetically the results of investigating the problems of knit wear sleeves; to present the most suitable sleeve cap for the knitwears. As the studying methods, I collected the basic data from the working-level persons of knit wear manufacturers, examined the knitting draft in the knitwears, and from that, made three kinds of comparative experimental garments and one kind of research experimental one as 10G and 16G. In doing so, I showed the sleeve cap suitable for the knitwears with plain stitch after operating sensual evaluation with Liker's 5-point rating measure. The analysis of data was handled with statistics by using SPSS Ver. 12.0; the method of statistics was executed by Frequency Analysis, Trust Analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test according to each topic of the research. As the result of the sensual evaluation of the experimental garments produced from the study, the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one in both 10G and l6G; has less extra folds around the front part of sleeve cap; looks more natural in sleeve caps of the body part and of a sleeve. From this, I am able to figure out that the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one produced by knit wear manufacturers. In addition, I can come to know that the different knitting of the front line and the back one of armhole in the knitwears has a favorable impact on improving the appearance of a sleeve.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1991.06a
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• pp.52-52
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• 1991

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.651-658
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• 2008

Conjoint analysis estimates how much each of the attributes is valued on the basis of the choices consumers make among product concepts that are varied in systematic ways. The purposes of this research were to evaluate the relative importance of each fabric constituent characteristic for the consumer's utility or preference, to compare with the relative importance between the trained and the untrained panelists, and to identify the combinations of the constituent characteristic of knit fabric which offer consumers greater utility. Conjoint analysis was conducted using data taken from 54 trained and 54 untrained panelists, who rated preference for 12 different knit fabrics. The stitch length had a greater effect on knit fabric preference than the mixture ratio of fiber. There was no difference on effect of knit constituent characteristics for preference between the trained and the untrained panelists. Total, trained and untrained group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.967-973
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• 2013

During high speed sewing, the needle thread is exposed to dynamic loading, short strike loading, inertia forces, friction, rubbing, force of check spring, bending, pressure, friction, impact, shock and thermal influence. The dynamic thread loading/tension alters throughout the stitch formation cycle and along its passage through the machine. The greatest tensile force occurs at the moment of stitch stretching, when the take up lever pulls for required thread length through the tension regulator. These stresses act on the thread repeatedly and the thread passes 50-80 times through the fabric, the needle eye and the bobbin case mechanism, before getting incorporated into the seam, which result in upto 40% loss in tensile strength of the sewing thread. This damage in the sewing thread adversely affects its processing and functional performance. In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, passage through needle and fabric, and bobbin thread interaction in the loss in tensile properties has been studied. It is observed that the loss in tensile properties occurs mainly due to the bobbin thread interaction. Dynamic loading due to the action of take up lever also causes substantial loss in tenacity and breaking elongation of cotton threads.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.120-136
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• 2008

This study examined sewing methods used to reinforce the opening of clothes of the Joseon period. Through the analysis of a total of 117 clothing items of the Joseon period, the following results were obtained. 1. Most costumes of the Joseon period had the opening. The purpose of the opening was to allow one to put on and take off a costume, act comfortably, and turn a costume Inside out. The opening was located on the Side, Conte. Back, fgwi(Side opening of pants), Wristband, Armhole, and Godae(the bark part of the collar). 2. As the opening tended to get easily worn out, it was often reinforced. The 1911owing three methods were used to reinforce the opening of clothing items of the Joseon period: a method to attach a cloth such as Dang, Binding, and Badae; a method using a variety of knots; and a method by sewing stitches such as a sort of cross stitch called Satteugi, Prick stitch, and Loop. 3. The most frequently used reinforcing method was the one that used a knot(34 items), followed by the one by sewing Satteugi(27 items), and the one using Dang(25items). The most frequently detected location of the opening was Side(59 items), followed by Agui(37 items), Wristband(19 items), and Center Back(13 items). 4. The reinforced opening made a costume more endurable and elastic, decorative and neat.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.125-135
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• 2012

Since knitted textile products mostly do not require long span of time from the conception to the final products, they have lead the fashion trends during the recent decades. Developments in the textile engineering industries, and computer software and hardware industries have made the 3D virtual clothing software system easily accessible by the fashion/textile industry personnel. The simulated models of apparel products using the state-of-the-art virtual clothing systems are, however, not the replica of real-world garments. Moreover, the garments do not maintain fixed shapes during wearing. Deformations at low external stress lead to difficulties in predicting the behavior of the knitted garments. Therefore, there is a need to compare the differences in appearances, textures, or other related properties between simulated fabrics and actual fabrics. Three knit stitches including jersey, rib, and cable stitches are examined in this study. The differences between fluffy thick yarns and thin yarns are also compared using 3D scanning and surface reconstruction. Obtained three-dimensional data regarding the reconstructed knit specimens would help to build a data base for estimating the behavior of the 3D models of the knitted garments.

• Journal of KIISE:Information Networking
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.24-33
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• 2009

In patch-and-stitch localization algorithms, a flip error refers to the kind of error in which a patch is stitched to the map as being wrongly reflected. In this paper, we present an anchor-free localization algorithm which tries to detect and prevent flip errors. The flip error prevention is achieved by two filtering mechanisms: the flip-ambiguity test and the flip-conflict detection. We evaluate the performances of proposed techniques though simulations and show that they achieve significant performance improvements.