• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2011

본 연구는 세계문화유산으로 지정된 조선왕릉의 관리를 담당한 관직인 능참봉직을 소재로 하여 "경국대전(經國大典)", "속대전(續大典)", "대전회통(大典會通)", "조선왕조실록(朝鮮王朝實錄)", 각종 의궤(儀軌), 능지(陵誌), "일성록", 능참봉 일기 등 관련 고문헌의 내용분석을 중심으로 능참봉의 조경가적 역할을 규명하는 기초연구로 수행되었으며, 요약된 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 능참봉(陵參奉)은 종9품 참봉 2인으로 구성되고 능참봉직은 생원 진사 혹은 유학중에 삼망(三望)을 거쳐 임명이 되는 음직(蔭職)으로 임용기준은 '연소하지 않고 경륜이 있는 자'를 선발하였으며, 왕릉수호의 상징성으로 인해 관직진출의 수단이 되었다. 둘째, 능참봉의 업무체계는 품계서열을 따랐으나 지리상의 여건 등으로 봉심과 능의 공사감독 등 실제보다 많은 권한과 다양한 직무를 수행하였으며, 능수호군 관리 및 능지작성 등 조선왕릉 관리에 중요한 역할을 수행하였다. 셋째, 능참봉의 조경관련 직무 중 봉심은 능상의 석물이나 사초, 정자각 등을 정기적으로 예찰하여 예조에 보고하는 것이며, 경국대전과 속대전에 봉심의 체계와 방법 등이 자세히 규정되어 있었다. 넷째, 능참봉의 조경관련 직무 중 수목관리 및 능역공사 감독은 조경식물에 대한 기본적 이해와 관리능력과 건축 토목을 망라한 공간에 대한 다양한 식견이 요구되는 직무로 조선왕릉의 현장관리 실무자로써 지방관과의 수직적인 관계의 유동성 확보와 산림부산물 처리에서 암묵적 권한과 관리 책임이 부여되었으며, 오늘날 조경가의 직무성향과 관련성이 깊다. 능참봉의 조선시대 조경관련 직무에 대해 좀 더 폭넓은 문헌 발굴 및 고증으로 조선시대 능참봉의 조선왕릉 조경관리자로서의 역할과 능참봉과 조선왕릉의 조경사적 가치 규명을 위한 후속 연구가 요구된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.31-47
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• 1979

1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.