• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.113-123
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• 1998

This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.513-522
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze characteristics and meanings of the masculine factors related with power images in women's fashion since 2000. The method of study was to analyze the documentary about the power images since the 14th Century and then the fashion magazines since 2000. The results of this study were as follows: The power image of women's fashion was internalized by wearing of the masculine factors each of an era. After 2000, characteristics of women's fashion affected by masculine factors were an exaggeration of scale, deformation, inharmonious collage and changeful borrowing. They showed the structure of new cognition of modern society uncertainty, open and decentralized. And power images presented aesthetic characteristics such as independence, ideal, sign of a amusement and decentralized virility. In conclusion, power in women's fashion has a function of creativeness, product, positiveness from past to modern. In addition, the power, which is a symbol of perfection, rationality and ideal beauty, expresses a good feeling of psychology, social friendship, value of success and will be existed as a meaningful esthetic sign in women's fashion.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

As modern society advances, women's self-consciousness and attitudes toward beautiful appearances have changed. Amid this trend, the young and slim body of adolescent girls expressed in contemporary fashion incites fantasy on continuing youth among women. In modern society, women's youth is frequently regarded as a subject of consumption and a sex product in the mass media. In this regard, the study is focused on examining desire and psychology of worshipping women's youth and beauty in connection with flapper fashion in the 1920s. In the process, the study took a look at the social and cultural background of flapper fashion and conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and aesthetic sense of flapper fashion as follows: First, the formative characteristics include a short skirt that expresses straight lined shape and the beauty of exposure, lighter clothing, thick make-up, short hair style and black or vivid colors, and they lead to exceptional and innovative aesthetic sense in flapper fashion. Flapper fashion style is focused on completely denying outdated fashion worn by women in the age right before. Second, pursuit of mature, graceful and classical beauty that had continued in previous ages has gone through complete changes in the flapper era in the name of pursuit of youth, and the flapper fashion expresses sensual image through the exposure of slim arms and legs of a young girl. In the formative characteristics, aesthetic sense of youth and sensuality inherent in the flapper fashion was generated. Third, women's free-spirited lifestyle at that time and 'aesthetic sense of freedom and amusement that reflected the speed of machine civilization could be found in the flapper fashion. Material and decoration of the flapper fashion pertained to clothing that enabled a free expression through rapid movements. Aesthetic sense of the flapper fashion generated in the process could be defined as women's internal determination to express individual and free-spirited ideas through the use of fashion when tradition and order of the old age were torn down. And this aesthetic sense is continuously affecting modern fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2006

As fashion is a reflection of a way of life, jean fashion seems to be a reflection of the background and process of social-human psychology. Modern jeans reflect personality and trend rather than traditional practicality as indicated by the concept and emphasis of fashion. Since the early 1990s, practical use of jeans has appeared consistently in products for interior use, various kinds of fashion-ware and fashion properties, as well as in fashion that is a conversion and interpretation of an outstanding fashion trend. And the search, providing that various symbols of jeans are sensualism, deviation, ostentation, amusement and multi-culture, shows that jeans represent the multifarious aspects of fashion culture. For the purpose and necessity of this search to meet different consumers' desires by the practical use of jeans and the development of fashion-ware. First, investigate the trend of jeans in 2005. Second, try to change the various uses of jeans by reflecting the trend of jeans. Finally, extend the range of choice by developing various goods. As a result, basic jeans have the strength of function, activity, and originality. Use of ornamental jeans can fully show their value as well as their emphasis of individuality in beauty. If we consider these points, we can minimize the limitations of jeans and make a practical use of the fashion trend, If we make the function of jeans stand out through the use of varieties of materials, the modem characteristic consumption will be met by the various change of use as well as by the clothes.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.