• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.77-81
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of multi-functional fabric on EEG and growth hormone (GH) during sleep and quality of sleep with the 9 young female athletes. The subjects participated in separated experimental procedure; sleeping in multi-functional fabric wear (experimental group) and cotton wear (control group) for 450min. During the night (22:00-05:30), we recorded the changes of nocturnal polysomnographic sleep recording and GH were measured every 60min. The results show that there are significant differences in percentage of stage 1, 2 and slow wave sleep (SWS) between two groups(S1, p<.05; S2, SWS, p<.01). The SWS percentage of experimental group is 1.89 times higher than control group. The changes of GH secretion varied depending on two experimental procedures. The peak of GH secretion in experimental group is more than controls by 2.4time (p<.001). The quality of sleep in experimetal group is significantly higher than control (p<.01). These results suggest muti-functional fabric wear is effective in inducing the deep sleep and increasing GH and quality of sleep.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.713-720
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• 2006

Heat conductivity, height, size, elasticity of pillow, stability of shape, hygroscopicity, ventilation, temperature and easy movability, and so on, are considered to be some of major conditions that affect the comfortable sleep. Considering those factors together, the thermal properties, height, shape and feeling of touch, etc, of pillow must be taken into account. Though studies have been conducted to figure out the physical properties of mattress or pillows from the perspective of factors related to the environment of sleep, they are not enough to be used as an index to evaluate the qualitative aspect of sleep. This study tries to consider the effect of pillow filling materials on the comfortable sleep, for which EEG, ECG, EOG, EMG, RT, etc, are to be measured in an attempt to provide the basic data required in proposing the condition that may lead to a sound and comfortable sleep. Three types of pillows that are sold in the market were used for this research in order to evaluate the quality of sleep depending on the filling materials of pillow. All data were statistically processed and the following conclusions were drawn. It was found that the pillow with feathers provided the best comfort as the pillow A turned out to have the shortest sleeping latency(SL) from the perspective of comfort. The pillow B which used the polyethylene is deemed to be suitable for fatigue relieving purpose as it turned out to have the highest slow wave sleep(SWS), but no statistically significant difference was validated. Moreover, the pillow C which used the natural wool was found to have the narrowest contacting area of the pillow and head and provide a great warm heat comfort that may led to a sound sleep because the temperature below the pillow took the longest time to rise.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.14-26
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• 2001

A lot of designers are adopting a mixed imitation as techniques of cretion because cultural boundary and structure of meaning in the era of post-modernism are collapsed and dissolved. I raise up a question mark to how can genuine and creative designers can be identified at this epoch when we are today familiar with the trend of informationalization, opening and globalization. Characterisitics of multi-culturalism and compromising blending are meshed with appearance of a theory of disorganization and consumer-driven economic activity of multi-national enterprises in the age of post capitalism. Accordingly it can be said that designers are leaning upon public and consumeroriented pattern rather than pursuing a creative cultural production. With mass media in rapid advancement and public culture in father dissemination, mass production and mass re-production became a natural cultural phenomenon strengthen ing its root. Creative designers somewhat slow and limitative in pace of adaption to rapid changing society amid such social backgrounds and flooded information are coming to dead-end of wall. A mixed imitation as techniques of creation is a result of borrowing, duplicating or re-combining of existing things because the mixed imitation is equivalent to borrowing, copying, compilation and recombination of well-known artworks, motive, diverse people's cultural features, image, techniques and the likes. It is too delicate thing for one to definitely distinguish such cultural phenomenon from either one as creative work or a plagiarized work. Looking into the facts as they are, we should recognize the designers limitation in their creative works by means of the mixed imitation. thus we can have a view upon them from a criticizing standpoint against the designers creation and imitation. On the other hand, when we look at things how the mixed imitation appears in the fashion as a piece of culture, we can understand something of the contemporary designers. I try to find a significance in seeking out a method of approaching to creative fashion designers direction in future times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 1997

The main purpose of this study was to examine the sectors of Korean textile complex based on various economic characteristics and performances. The sectors in the textile complex differed in many aspects. Man-made fiber industry showed capital-intensive characteristics even though most of the sectors in the textile complex were labor-intensive. Textile industry is composed of weaving and spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing sectors and even within the textile industry, each sector had different characteristics from each others. Weaving and spinning sector seemed to require relatively high capital investment, while dyeing and finishing was very labor-intensive. Labor-intensive apparel industry has faced decrease in labor-productivity while wage has increased. Slow growth in labor productivity in Korean textile complex was shown to be a more problem than increase in wage or ratio of labor cost to value added. Apparel companies appeared to be in better financial states than the textile companies, even though the exports of apparel products have decreased in the 1990s. However, in overall the financial states of the Korean textile complex were not as strong as those of the other manufacturing sectors.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.179-187
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• 2002

The Ayu Trough, located in the southern end of the Philippine Sea, represents a divergent boundary between the Philippine Sea and the Caroline Plates. A detailed geophysical survey was carried out in the Ayu Trough by R/V Onnuri. Topographically, the Ayu Trough resembles an slow spreading ridge. The trough can be divided into three sections: the south $(0^{\circ}-1^{\circ}30'N),\;middle\;(1^{\circ}30'-4^{\circ}N)$, and north $(4^{\circ}-6^{\circ}30'N)$. The seafloor in the middle section is characterized by features asymmetric with respect to the axis. These features were probably produced by NW-SE and NNW-SSE extensions and seem to support the argument that the opening of the Ayu Trough occurred in an oblique fashion. Farther south, a long transform fault but with a short offset defines the boundary between middle and southern sections. The axial depth increases a stepwise to the south of $1^{\circ}30'N$. A clear difference can be seen between the southern and middle sections with the latter exhibiting much higher mantle Bouguer anomaly values in the axial region. The anomaly indicates that the axial crust perhaps experienced a much higher degree of extension in the middle than in the southern section. The analyses of magnetic field data reveal that the region beyond 100km exhibits considerable variations, whereas the magnetic anomalies within 100km from the trough axis are very much subdued. This observation suggests that the opening of the Ayu Trough involved an initial stage of rifting of existing volcanic arcs, followed by production of new seafloor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.319-329
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• 1989

The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$. Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

• Physical Therapy Korea
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.70-76
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of hip extension velocity (7.5 degree/second, 30 degree/second) on the relative onset time of the gluteus maximus in relation to the hamstring during hip extension in prone position. Thirteen healthy male subjects (mean age=22.6 years [SD=1.8], mean weight=73.4 kg [SD=10.3], mean height=176.1 cm [SD=6.3]) voluntarily participated in this study. Electromyographic data was collected on the gluteus maximus and hamstring to determine onset time. Statistical analyses were performed with the paired t-test. The results showed that the onset time of the hamstring was significantly faster than that of the gluteus maximus in both fast and slow hip extension velocity. The gluteus maximus began contraction .079 seconds later following the contraction of the hamstring. The onset time of the hamstring was significantly faster in fast hip extension velocity compared with slow hip extension velocity. In conclusion, it was determined that the onset time of the gluteus maximus was faster with fast hip extension velocity compared with slow hip extension velocity. There was a statistically significant difference between the onset times of the gluteus maximus and hamstring in relation to the two velocities (p<.05). Further study is needed to examine whether the velocity of hip extension can influence the onset time in a similar fashion in patients with low back pain.