• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.47-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop a basic sloper for pants that would be appropriate for young Korean school girls between the ages of 6 to 11 years old. Pants available in the apparel market for children do not properly correspond to the body size of the target consumer group. This research explores the characteristics of the body size of the group and also identifies problems of the conventional pants sloper that would be generally used for the production of children's apparel. Ultimately it presents a basic sloper for a possible use for manufacturing. The basic slopers for pants were collected from three different companies and were the examples used for this study. An experimental pants sloper was developed, reflecting the average body size of a nine year-old girl, which Is thought to be the master size for grading in children's wear Four different cotton prototype pants were made based on the three companies' slopers and the experimental one for evaluation of the fit and overall shape of the pants on subjects. The results revealed that the design, fit, and overall look of the experimental pants was superior to that of the opposing companies' product. After alteration of the experimental sloper, a basic pants sloper was finalized. The finalized pants sloper was determined at W/4+1cm for the front waist and W/4+2cm for the back, H/4+0.5cm for the front hip and H/4+1.5cm for the bark hip, and 73cm for its length with 15.5cm and 18cm for its front and back pants width at the bottom, respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.367-378
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to utilize of the CAD system in pattern making process for women's bodice sloper, especially in education of the drafting. Accumark 540 System was used for this study. The drafting program was developed by the use of macro program in CAD system. The results from this study : 1. The Lim Won Ja's system of bodice sloper was selected in this study. The hand drafting of the system was arranged developing the macro program of bodice sloper. 2. The program consists of eight subprograms I sequence of the drafting order. In running this developed program, proper figure is drafted by inputing data. And the drafting process is automatically presented in interactive mode. 3. It has been developed to input the function of French Curve Ruler to increase the effectiveness of curved line treatment. The program can also be used in the curve part to present the manualy sensible function. 4. In case of education of drafting bodice sloper, the program provides the high accuracy, efficiency and a strong interest nterest in pattern making process by utilizing CAD system.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.205-210
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.911-929
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• 2014

This study is designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual torso length sloper with real torso length sloper according to three 3D virtual clothing simulation programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, i-Designer), three body types (A, N, H) and fit status. We selected three representative body type models of females aged 20~30 and got their direct body measurements. Using these body measurements, we developed three 3D avatar body models and made three torso length fitted sloper with long sleeves. Thirty expert fit judges consisting of technical designers and graduate students assessed the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual clothing and real clothing by observing images classified into front, back and side scene. We conducted ANOVA and post-hoc analyses to compare fit and appearance between real clothing and virtual clothing depending on three program. The results showed that CLO 3D represented fit and silhouette most similarly among the programs, especially girths, width and length. i-Designer tended to be relatively good to represent stress fold amount and silhouette. Optitex was assessed relatively better in expressing ease amounts in torso girths and armscye girths, but relatively worse for width, length, stress fold amount and silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.565-576
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• 1993

The Purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of the hip block and sleeve for female college students of 18 to 26 year-old. The study procedures and results were as follows ; 1. 313 female college students were measured, 17items were analyzed statisitcally. 2. New hip block and sleeve sloper were developed based on the result of the data analysis and fitting tests. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new hip block and sleeve sloper for female college student by comparing it with Japanese Bunka method sloper. According to statistical analysis of the result of 40items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference($$a{\leq_-}0.01$$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 40items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.68-86
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• 1988

This paper is described about applied method of personal computer for clothes-patterns. The personal Computer (Fijitsu FM-$16{\beta}$) and X-Y Plotter (GRAPHTEC GP-9101 R) were used in this study. It is studied to draft of sleeve designs automartically in this paper. The Basic Language is used and the programs were main program and subroutine programs. The results are as follows; 1) The Y's system of sleeve sloper is selected in this study. 2) The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in drafting of sleeve designs. 3) In the variations of sleeve sloper, Puff sleeve and Raglan sleeve were selected. Programs for drafting of them were developed. 4) About the drafting of Raglan curve, it is gotten adequate curve using sprine function. 5) Clothes-Pattern are making very correctly and quickly by using computer.

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.13
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• pp.74-80
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• 2016