• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.299-314
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.468-479
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• 2019

This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm $28^{\circ}$ to the side (M1). When the arm was raised $45^{\circ}$ to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above $158^{\circ}$ (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.13
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• pp.74-80
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• 2016

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2015

This study analyzes the form of sleeve heads, which is an important internal element that affects the appearance of jacket sleeves. It characterized sleeve head forms by investigating angles, materials, and a combination of formations for 50 sleeve heads. It conducted an appearance evaluation by comparing and analyzing the results. This paper develops a sleeve head appropriately for sleeve construction. The study results are as follows. First, the product was divided into three parts: based on, force receiving, and sleeve cap parts. There were four types of man's sleeve head: straight, arc, and curve A and B types. The woman's sleeve head had two types: straight and curve B type. Second, the feature of each type of sleeve head was analyzed. A straight type emphasized the based on part. An arc type highlighted the force receiving part while the based on part decreased. The sleeve cap part, force receiving part, and based on part were emphasized in the arc type sleeve head. Third, as a result of the appearance evaluation, each type was rank as straight type < arc type ${\leq}$ curve A < curve B. The straight type did not get positive results as it had extra ease when the sleeve head was attached to a Jacket Sleeve. The arc type was evaluated poorly due to an inappropriate sleeve cap composition. The curve type received an excellent overall outcome as it fit into the sleeve cap part well and highlighted the force receiving part in order to minimize front and back wrinkles. Therefore, the curve type made the resemblance of the jacket appearance perfect and closest to the sleeve pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.1-14
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• 2003

This study were to grasp the present situation of the pet wear market and the problem of pet wear, and to develop the pet wear pattern which agrees well to dog's shape and movements. We carried out survey research to analyze the actual pet wear market condition for a dog-lover, and movement analysis and sensory test to develop a pattern for Maltese which was the favorite dog among Korean. For data analysis, ANOVA with duncan test, T-test were conducted using SPSS statistic program(ver. 10.0). The results are as follows: 1. The results of the survey research, 75% of dog-lover had a pet wear and favorite was T-shirts. The problems of wearing T-shirts were 'too tight seam sleeve and bodice(front legs hole)', 'the clothes easily hang down' and 'easily taken off due to large neck size'. 2. The ease amount of the developed pattern was given according to the results of dog's shape and movement analysis, and the results of sensory test, there is a significant difference in the following items: depth of front neck line, front chest${\to}$abdomen curve, ease amount of sleeve, comfort level of leg parts. 3. The size of each parts of the developed pattern in this study were as follows : neck girth 27.0cm, body girth 40.0cm, back length 26.0cm, front leg girth 23.0cm, sleeve length 20.7cm, sleeve width 14.4cm. But, there exists some limits to generalize these results since dog's body size and shapes are various according to dog species. Therefore, further studies are needed to develop each pet wear pattern for each dog species.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

• The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.257-262
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• 2017

In this paper, we proposed a rectangular planar monopole antenna with a double sleeve that applied to a half-cut and a discontinuous feed structure. A rectangular planar monopole antenna with a double sleeve was cut in half along the magnetic symmetry line, and impedance matching was achieved by a discontinuous structure was applied to a feeder and by adjusting the double sleeve gap. We used the HFSS simulator of ANSYS company to confirm the antenna parameter property, and the antenna size was $21{\times}40mm^2$. In the proposed antenna, the simulation frequency range with VSWR of 2 or less was 2.6GHz to 10.25GHz. The bandwidth was 7.65GHz. The frequency range of the fabricated antenna was 3.3GHz to 9.75GHz, and the bandwidth was 6.45GHz. The measured radiation pattern frequencies were 3.5GHz, 5.5GHz, 7.5GHz, and 9.5GHz. A radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna pattern was obtained at all frequencies.