• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.224-236
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• 2017

Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2010

Comparative analysis of marker efficiency in blouse patterns, based on different sleeve designs, was carried out. Sleeve designs used included set-in-sleeve, laglan sleeve, and epaulet sleeve. The two types of epaulet sleeves, A and B, are based on pattern arrangement methods of center back. Cloth and production conditions are the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces, and the direction for marking deployment. A blouse pattern saved to the PAD CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marker efficiency in different conditions. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marker efficiency of small pattern sized set-insleeve was higher than laglan and epaulet sleeve designs. It was also established that marker efficiency is dependent on cloth and production conditions. For small number of marking pieces, efficiency was higher in the condition of 110cm cloth widths compared with that condition of 150cm cloth widths. However the efficiency of large number of marking pieces was higher in the condition of 150cm cloth widths.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.68-86
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• 1988

This paper is described about applied method of personal computer for clothes-patterns. The personal Computer (Fijitsu FM-$16{\beta}$) and X-Y Plotter (GRAPHTEC GP-9101 R) were used in this study. It is studied to draft of sleeve designs automartically in this paper. The Basic Language is used and the programs were main program and subroutine programs. The results are as follows; 1) The Y's system of sleeve sloper is selected in this study. 2) The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in drafting of sleeve designs. 3) In the variations of sleeve sloper, Puff sleeve and Raglan sleeve were selected. Programs for drafting of them were developed. 4) About the drafting of Raglan curve, it is gotten adequate curve using sprine function. 5) Clothes-Pattern are making very correctly and quickly by using computer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.2 s.30
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• pp.155-165
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate on the sleeve form variation according to arm movements for elderly women. This study was experimented using the Plaster gypsum. The subjects who were elderly women were divided into three groups according to Rorher Index. Arm movements were five type ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to each the vertical motion in front and in side. The statistical analyses used in this study were Mean, Standard Deviation, Spearman's correlation coefficients, paired T-test, Kruskal-wallis one-way ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1) Increasing the movements, the width of the sleeve increased and the height of the sleeve cap decreased but girth of the sleeve cap was not consistant. 2) When varied the rates of the three aspects of the sleeve, the height of the sleeve cap showed the largest variation rate. 3) There was a negative correlation between the height and the width of the sleeve. On the other hand, there was a positive correlation between the sleeve width and the sleeve girth. 4) There were the vertical motion differences between in front and in side on the three aspects of sleeve. 5) The sleeve width and the sleeve girth were different according to somatotypes but the height of the sleeve cap was not different. 6) According to the variation rates of the body surfaces in length of standard lines, the form of sleeve was changed more in the front than in the back. Maximum variation rate showed in the areas of $D_1-D_3,\;E_1-E_3$ in the horizontal lines and $A-E_2$ in vertical lines. 7) According to the comparative drawing of the heights of sleeve cap and sleeve girth, the sleeve basic pattern $S_1(A.H/4)$ was more suitable for the direction $0^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$. And the basic pattern S_6(A.H/5)$ was more suitable for the direction $90^{\circ}$, the pattern $S_7(A.H/6)$ suitable for the direction $135^{\circ}$, and the pattern $S_8(A.H/8)$ was more suitable for the direction $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.742-754
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• 2013

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately $50^{\circ}$, $70^{\circ}$ and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of $55^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of $68^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of $68^{\circ}$. Also, in the results of experiment on $55^{\circ}$ angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over $70^{\circ}$ in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.