• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• Journal of the Korea Concrete Institute
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.516-524
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• 2001

Among many connection methods of reinforcing bar, the grout-filled splice sleeve system is very effective method of precast concrete construction due to its superior construction efficiency, such as large allowable limit to arrangement of reinforcing bars, good application of large sized reinforcing bars. In this study, totally 20 full-sited specimens were made and tested under monotonic and cyclic loading in order to extend the usage range of grout-filled splice sleeve system. The experimental variables adopted in this study are size of reinforcing bars embedded in upper and lower part of sleeve and compressive strength of filled mortar etc. After test was performed, the results were compared and analyzed with respect to previous test of author. Following main conclusions are obtained : 1) The structural performance of splice sleeve system is improved with increasing compressive strength of filled mortar. And also it was verified that the splice sleeve system with over 700 kgf/㎠ mortar compressive strength and over 6.54 development length of reinforcing bar retains the structural performance of over A class(AIJ Criteria). 2) In the case of using different size of reinforcing bars embedded in upper and lower part of sleeve, the result show that splice sleeve matching with large sized reinforcing bar must be used. And also up to 2 level smaller size of reinforcing bar compared to large reinforcing bar embedded in sleeve can be used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.308-318
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• 2007

This study aims to survey the satisfaction level with the fit of ready-made suits(jackets and pants) among adult males and thereby to show its differences by the age group and body type. The respondents to the questionnaire survey were 465 males, aged 20 through 59 years. The conclusions are as follows: 1. The average satisfaction level for the fit of each item ranged from 2.65 to 3.57, with the higher level found in jackets than in pants, and also in circumference parts than in length parts 2. The satisfaction level for the fit by the age of adult males showed inter-group differences in the parts of jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, sleeve openings, and sleeve band width for jackets; and pant length of pants. 3. The satisfaction level for the fit by the body type of adult males indicated into-group differences in chest circumference of jackets only. 4. The satisfaction level for the fit, with the exclusion of the age and body type relationship showed that adult males are affected more by the age than by the body type. 5. In the repair frequency by the item, pants(45.6%) showed a higher level than jackets(24.7%). The parts with a high repair level by the item were jacket length(8.4%) and steeve length(19.8%) for jackets; and pant length(42.4%) and waist circumference(8.4%) for pants.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1059-1067
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• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.67-73
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• 2011

This study aims to develop an economical precast hollow concrete column with high constructability which consists of only splice sleeve and general reinforcing bar without using PC tendons in order to reduce the construction period and cost. With this purpose, this study performed the finite element analysis and tension test by using some variables such as length of sleeve, diameter of rebar and curing method for suggesting a grouting type splice sleeve which is a new type joint rebar and developing an optimized splice sleeve. As a result, the analysis on the tension performance of splice sleeve did not show any destruction caused by pull-out in reinforcing bar but it only occurred destruction of tension bar or bolt shear rupture from the mechanical defect of sleeve. Therefore, the experiment showed high performance in tension of the suggested splice sleeve and verified the application of precast hollow concrete column.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.5-11
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• 2012

The Buckling of the member under compressive stress is likely to occur, which is an important factor determining the strength of structures. The objective of this study was to evaluate the member buckling strength of a circular hollow steel with ball joints and to compare with design specifications for load resistance factor of our country. Furthermore, we would like to suggest basic data for evaluation of buckling length of a circular hollow steel with ball joints according to comparative analysis. These results were summarized as follows: Buckling stress according to the test results on buckling was 1.21 times greater than LSD specifications of our country estimated the entire length of circular hollow steel with ball joints as buckling length. In addition, it was 1.16 times greater than when estimating the length except the ball as buckling length and 1.14 times grater than when excluding the ball and sleeve. Therefore, when estimating buckling stress of circular hollow steel with ball joints, their buckling length may be measured by the length except ball and sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.