• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.303-311
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• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.660-667
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.151-163
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• 2008

This study was undertaken to design Ginyeo's character and costume in the early-middle Goryeo Dynasty which had a few relics, and to make practical cultural contents. The famous Goryeo Ginyeos who had real names are costume characters. Goryeo women dressed in delicate white ramie jarket in "Goryeo-dokyung", and the shape of Jacket can be two kinds: long-wide jacket enough to tie a belt, and long caftan cover the knee. Goryeo women enjoyed wide yellow skirt, but Ginyeo in "Dongguk-isanggutjip" put on pink, flower, pomegranate, red skirt for high class ladies. In the case of Mong-su(a head cloth with black gauze train), it is thought that Ginyeo fold up train like lower class or just hang down like ordinary women, because of their status. As underwear, a ramie jacket and wide underpants were set up. It is needed that many Golden bells and jade trinkets must be attached to Goryeo Ginyeo's waist to stress their characteristics. Ginyeo's hair style can be designed so that a bunch of right hair was dropped down and the rest hair was rolled on reft shoulder. To design a Ginyeo's costume chatacter of the early-middle Goryeo, the richness of wide skirt, delicacy of white ramie, a great deal of trinkets must be emphasized correctly as a characteristic of Goryeo women's costume in that period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.38-56
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• 2014

This study compared the flared skirts on 3D simulation and in real to show diverse forms in women's clothing depending on the body's gait and motion. By finding the problems, we suggested the possible methods for utilizing the 3D simulation in the clothing industry. First, the 3D simulation of flared skirts showed similar forms of appearance according to the flare length and volume. However, virtually formed drape shape was even in size and spacing, whereas it was not even in real. Second, according to the results of appearance test on the length and flare volume at $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$, both real and 3D simulation skirts were evaluated to have outstanding appearances regardless of the skirt length. However, as the flares volume increased, the skirts with longer length were evaluated to have superior appearances compared to the skirts of shorter length. Third, it showed higher resemblance between the real and virtual simulation, when the skirt had less flare and as the skirt length shortened. However, it showed greater difference between the real and virtual simulation when flare volume and length increased. The length and volume of the skirt and the physical properties of the material are predicted to be different between the real and virtual simulation. However, they usually are similar in forms, so it is believed possible to use for predicting the design's silhouette or the feel when it is worn. This method can be applied on internet shopping malls, which can possibly reduce unnecessary time and expenses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 1997

This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.465-475
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• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.