• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

This paper investigated the costumes of young girl dancers in Yon wha dae moo(연화대무: Lotus Stage dance) which were documented on the Ak-hak-guae-bum(악학궤범: Protocol of music) and the Jin-yeon-eui-guae(진연의궤: Archives of Royal Feast). The fashion of the costumes can be changed into three phases, based mainly on the changes of Hap-rip(합립: silk hat), Dan-eui(단의: long jacket) and Sang(상: apron type skirt). In the first phase the costume consisted of Hap-rip, round neck-line Dan-eui and tiered skirt decorated with pleat and Yu-so(유소: decorated cords). In the second phase. it consisted of Hap-rip, v-shape neck-line Dan-eui and skirt without pleat. In the third phase, it consisted of Yeon-wha-gwan(연화관: Lotus shape cap), round neck-line Dan-eui of later era and skirt with pleat and Yu-so. Yon-wha-dae dance appears to be adopted from Ja-ji-mu( 자지무: chinese dance) that originated in West and Central Asia. In both dances. young girl dancers danced mainly jump and spin. The costume of round neck-line Dan-eui seems to have been affected by the fashion in Dang Dynasty when young girls loved to wear Dan-ryung(단령: male coat with round neckline). And it satisfied the need of mobility for the dance which was Performed mainly with jump.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.646-654
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• 2006

This study was designed to examine body shape control and its related factors, including BMI(body mass index), desire for weight control, satisfaction with body shape, dissatisfaction with specific parts of body shape, starting period of concern about body shape, as well as experience, method, result, counsel, effort, expense and knowledge of body shape control. The survey was completed by 180 female university students in Gyeongsanbukdo through a self-administered questionnaire during September and October of 2006. The subjects were assigned to one of three groups based on self-estimated figure: 47.8% of the students estimated their figure as 'normal', while 38.3% of the students estimated themselves as 'thin' and 13.9% of the students as 'fat'. The results were as fellows. The mean age of the subjects was $19.45{\pm}1.67$ with a height and weight of $161.15{\pm}4.99cm$ and $52.63{\pm}10.78\;kg$, respectively. Their self-estimated figure was significantly related to BMI, desire for weight control, satisfaction, dissatisfaction with a specific part, and experience, counsel and effort in body shape control. This research suggests that students need to know how to properly control body shape in health and beauty.

• Selected Papers of The Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.29-46
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• 1994

In this paper, the effect of a skirt deformation on the responses of an Air Cushion Vehicle in waves is investigated. The air in the bag and plenum chamber is assumed to be compressible and to have a uniform pressure distribution in each volume. The free surface deformation is determined in the framework of a linear potential theory by replacing the cushion pressure with the pressure patch which is oscillating and translating uniformly. And the bag-finger skirt assumed to be deformed due to the pressure disturbance while its surface area remained constant. The restoring force and moment due to the deformation of bag-finger skirt from equilibrium shape is incorporated with the equations of heave and pitch motions. The numerical results of motion responses due to various ratios of the bag and cushion pressure or bag-to-finger depth ratios are shown.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

In this study, the formative property of flare skirts is carry out by the shape horizontal sections of hem line. Flare skirts was made by 10 kinds of fabrics with different physical properties. the length of flare skirts was 60cm. The main results obtained are as follows ; 1, The shape horizontal sections of hem line has differed with number of nodes and fabrics properties, in direction of texture. 2. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability decreased in order from Polyester/nylon(20/80)>Polyester(twill, thickness 0.2441)>Polyester(plain, thickness0.3760)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3687)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3101). 3. The correlation between the number of nodes and wave-height of modes and breadth showed a high negative correlation with the drapability of fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.25-36
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• 1999

The purpose of the present research was to analyse for a sample of female collge students by Korean and American the preferred style of clothing with body cathexis. The respondents were 242 Korean and 145 American female volunteers aged 18 to 27 who were enrolled at Kwangju and Cathlic University of korean and Cornell University in the Unites States. The questionnaire was composed of three sections: body size body cathexis and the preferred style of clothing. Sixteen items of twenty-six items of the preferred style of clothing showed a significant difference between Korean and American. Korean students didn't like a bulky fabric and a bright color than American do. American students like a effect of accessories and clothing to emphasize my bust line and care about sleeve shape skirt length skirt shape than Korean do. Korean students were more dissatisfied with their body than American female students. There was a negative relationship between body cathexis and preference of tight skirt both Korean and American female students. There was a positive relationship among body cathexis and preference of outfit and preference of garment of polished silhouette by Korean female students a positive relationship among preference of fitted waist and design to emphasize bust line.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.94-107
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• 2005

Kokuryo mural tombs are located in Jipan and Pyongyang, where were capital Cities of Kokuryo. Although there are many studies performed about costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs so far, the studies comparing regional differences are rare. In this study, we tried to compare about the costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs between Jipan, where was the capital city in early period (BC37-AD426) and Pyongyang, where was the capital city for 241 years after the King Jang Su moved.(AD427-AD668) The results of this study are as following. There are differences between Jipan and Pyongyang in the shape of Chima(skirt) and the direction of Yeomim (adjusting the necklines). While there was only one type, long and narrow pleated skirt in Jipan area, another type of Chima was existed in Pyongyang area including the one in Jipan. Also, the direction of Yeomim was different. Left was popular in Jipan while it was right in Pyongyang. Moreover there are no man's Po(coat) with straight collar which was considered as a basic shape in Kokuryo mural tombs costumes so far. Also we found that Baji(pants) was an ordinary woman's costume, not only for underwear.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.425-431
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.163-171
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• 2008

This article aims to evaluate the visual effects and images according to the changes in the width of pleats of accordion pleats skirt. I altered the width of the pleats to seven categories in changes of 0.5cm, 0.7cm, l.0cm, 1.3cm, 2.0cm, 2.5cm and 3.0cm. For the visual evaluation, seven stimuli had been placed in mannequins, and had been estimated by experts in fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the width of pleats of according pleats skirt. I used 11 pairs of items to find their visual effects, and 17 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. Those stimuli and adjectives had been randomly given to evaluators and had been evaluated by the seven-point Likert type scale. The data have been analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffes test and correlation analysis. According to factor analysis of the visual effects of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into three factors: the verticality of the lower body, flexuosity of the lower body, and shape of the abdomen. According to factor analysis of the visual image of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into the following three factors: activity, attraction and neatness. In visual effects, the verticality of the lower body had been assessed as the most important factor of all. The visual effect was positive when the width of pleats had been narrowed. In visual image, activity had been assessed as the most important factor. In the case of accordion pleats skirt, as the width of pleats became wider, it had a stronger image in being active and casual.