To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.21
no.6
/
pp.1060-1071
/
1997
The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of clothing cues(sleeve and skirt width, length) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli are 16 pictures manipulated with sleeve and skirt width · length variations by computer drawing. The experimental design consists of 3 factorial design: (1) sleeve shapes(plain, upper expanded, below expanded, all expanded) (2) skirt width (wide, narrow) (3) skirt length(long, short) The 7-point semantic differential response scale designed for visual evaluation of female' s impression formation on sleeve shape and skirt width · length is 27 bipolar adjectives. The results of this study are as follows: 1. When we analize the impressions of female figure by sleeve shape and width · length of skirt, it becomes clear that maturity, modernity, attention, elegance and tenderness are proved to be important. Among these five factors, maturity, modernity and attention are identified as more important ones. 2. Sleeve shape have an effect on all factors except maturity and the effects of sleeve on the four factors are not striking. ' Width of skirt are most influential to the maturity and attention, but it does not have any effect on modernity. However two factor, that is width of skirt and sleeve have an effects on modernity, attention and tenderness. ' The length of skirt has an effects on the tenderness, elegance and modernity, but it dose not have any effect on attention. But width and length of skirt have an effects on attention, tenderness and modernity The length of skirt and sleeve have an effect on tenderness.
In this study, visual images were analyzed with the representative seven kinds of selected skirts, by the differences of shape and length which are affecting to the images of skirts. In addition, the purpose of the study is to present the basic data for the skirt design and patterns those are appropriate to the preferred images of 20-30s. The results of this study are as follows. First, analyzed by the visual evaluation about the composing factors are as follows. Factor 1 is a Cute image factor, factor 2 is a charming image factor, factor 3 is a transversal factor, Factor 4 is active image factor, Factor 5 was classified as a longitudinal factors. Second, analyzed by the visual evaluation according to the shape and length of the skirt, 20-30s women's most preferred form of the skirt is pleated skirt which was highly evaluated looks good, beautiful, favorite, attractive factors. Non-prefered skirts are gored skirt which was highly evaluated not corny, not pretty, heavy, unattractive factors and gored skirt which was negatively evaluated with classic and dislike factors. In the length of skirt, the knee length short skirt is attractive, active and positively evaluated by the 20-30s women than long skirt. Therefore, the results of this study, there are almost no differences according to the age groups of 20-30s women. They are more affected from the length of the skirt rather than the shape.
In this study, numerical analysis and experiments were performed to analyze the viscous damping effect according to the shape of the chamber skirt of the breakwater-linked inclined oscillating water column wave energy converter. Experiments were conducted using a two-dimensional mini wave tank and verified by comparing the results of a computational fluid dynamics numerical analysis. Pointed and rounded skirts were modeled to compare the effect of viscous damping when incident waves enter the chamber, and the difference in the displacement of the water surface in the chamber was compared according to the wave period for the two skirt shapes. The wave elevation in the chamber in the rounded-skirt condition was larger than the pointed-skirt condition in all wave periods, which was approximately 47% greater at 0.9 s of the incident wave period. Therefore, extracting the maximum energy through the optimal orifice is possible while minimizing the energy attenuation in the rounded-skirt condition.
The purpose of this study is to explore a three-dimensional (3D) simulation of skirt shape concepts by manipulating circumferences and lengths via parametric design in the fashion design concept stage. This study also intends to propose a modeling method that can judge and transform the shape through immediate parameter adjustment. We looked at cases that utilized parametric design in other fields of fashion design, reviewed and analyzed the variables used in each study, and constructed parameters suitable to implement skirt fashion design. The traditional design elements required for skirt design, namely waist and hip circumferences, were set as variables in this study. The parametric design was developed to generate ideas of two skirt silhouettes (tight and flared) and three lengths (mini, knee-length, and maxi). To apply the skirt design implemented through variables to the actual 3D human shape, the shape data of women in their 20s and 30s were randomly selected from the 5th human data of Size Korea. Skirt design silhouette modeling was performed by adjusting the variable values according to body type. Parametric design has the potential to help develop design ideas in the field of fashion design, considering the method and characteristics of parameters of the variety of variables and rapid modification. Furthermore, if systematic research on variables and options among fashion design elements is conducted, the possibility of converging them into customization or co-design fashion design processes could be confirmed.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.1
/
pp.77-88
/
2010
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual effects by the number of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 2 factors: verticality and thickness of lower body, shape of abdomen. In these factors, verticality and thickness of lower body factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion pleats skirt makes the lower body look longer when the width of the pleats is wider, and helps the calf and leg look thinner. Also, the waist looks more slender and thin. As the skirt gets longer, one looks taller, and legs look longer and thinner. The shape of abdomen is no difference according to the width of pleats. As the skirt gets longer, the waist looks more slender and thinner. The interaction of visual effect according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt is not shown, and the skirt length has more effect than the width of pleats does in verticality and width of lower body factor. The width of pleats has more effect than the skirt length does in shape of abdomen factor.
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the number of pleats and the length of the pleats skirt. The stimuli are 18 samples: 6 variations of the number of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 54 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual effects by the number of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : vertical of lower body, curves of lower body and shape abdomen. In these factors, vertical factor is estimated by the most important factor. The visual effect is positive when the number of pleats is added and the length of skirt is getting shorter. The short length of skirt and more pleats make legs and calves looked long and slim. The interaction effects between the number of pleats and the length of skirt do not appear. In the vertical of low body factor, the length of skirt is more effective than the number of pleats, and in the curve of low body factor, the number of pleats has more effects than the length of the skirt. In the shape of abdomen, the number of pleats and length of skirt have similar influences.
The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.
The aim of this study is to be the fundamental study for virtual clothing system of the future through a comparative analysis of the difference between a virtual frill skirt and a real frill skirt using a 3-dimensional Apparel cad system. Satin was selected as a comparative fabric of the real skirt and virtual skirt. And compared skirts are frilled 1.5widths, 2widths, and 2.5widths. In case of 1.5widths frilled, the real skirts and virtual skirts showed no significant difference except in shirring frill expression. However, in case of 2widths frilled, and 2.5widths frilled skirts, significant differences in the extent of frill flattening, the sectional diagram of the bottom hem, and the skirt shape. The virtual skirt showed that as its multiple proportion of frill increased, the sidelines of the skirt drooped and excessively extended, and collision detection that the belt was twisted and torn apart arose. Furthermore, not only the frill but also the shape of the skirt was transformed, and the bottom hems were widened back and forth, and the sectional diagram of the bottom hems were transformed into rounded shapes.
This research was to judge on the gathered skirt's shape by visual images that was from the different gathered skirts according to different sewing conditions; fabrics(cotton, mixed-wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T). Questionnaire consists of 33 semantic differential scale expressing gathered skirt's image, and 10 items of the shape were measured by 3D measurements method. The data were analyzes by factor analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA. The image of gathered skirts was composed of the five factors of activities, attraction, grace, softness, and ordinary and it was showed that these five factors occupied 68.4% of the total variance. The shape of gathered skirts was composed of the two factors of the side and the front, and it was showed that these two factors occupied 93.6% of the total variance. According to correlation analysis of visual shape, the front was significant in activities, attraction and ordinary, and the side was significant in activities, grace and ordinary. As a result of ANOVA, the visual images were significant in ratio of gathers. 2.5 ratio of gathered skirts were perceived to be more active and attractive, and 1.5 ratio of gathered skirts were more ordinary and graceful.
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