• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.65-77
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• 1982

The intent of this study was to focus attention on the relationship between curtain fabrics and consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. This study consisted of the laboratory test for thermal transmittance of selected fabrics and the exploratory survey for consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. The objectives of the laboratory test were to measure fabric's thermal transmittance, thickness, and count which affect to the effect in heat controlling. Selected 23 fabrics were tested at Korean Yarn and Fabrics Testing Inspection Institute. The objectives of the exploratory survey were to determine sociodemographic factors; the stage of family life cycle, the economics status, and homemaker's level of education, and physical factors; the type of houses, the direction of windows, and the type of windows, affect consumer perceptions toward curtains and draperies. Questionaires were administered to 489 homemakers selected by a stratified propotional sampling plan, in Seoul in October, 1981. Data from responses were analyzed by T-test(Analysis of Varience) and Partial Correlation. The major findings are as follows; 1. The results of the laboratory test 1) The fabrics used for draperies had higher effect in heat controlling than the fabrics used for glass curtains. 2) It did not show much differences among the fibers in heat controlling. The thicker fibers, however, had the higher effect in heat controlling among same fibers. 3) The fabrics which had high level of effect I heat controlling were corduroy, flax, rayon, nylon, acetate, thick polyester, and thick polyacrylic. The fabrics which had midium level of affect in heat controlling were velveteen, velvet, and thin polyester. The fabrics which had low level of effect in heat controlling were cotton, silk, and thin polyarcylic. 4) The draperies with lining showed 2∼5 times more effective in heat controlling than the draperies without lining. 2. The results of the exploratory survey Consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies consisted of functional, financial, and aesthetic perception. 1) Factor affecting functional perception towards curtains and draperies was the stage of family life cycle. Families in the contracting stage considered function of curtains and draperies significantly better than those in others stages. 2) Factors affecting financial perception towards curtains and draperies were the economic status, homemaker's level of education, the direction of windows, and the type of windows. However the correlation between the factors and financial perception was too low to explain the significance of tendency. 3) There was not any factors affecting aesthetic perception towards curtains and draperies.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.82-90
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• 1999

The buddhistic painting of Song-Kwang temple in Seungjoo-gun, Chonnam, Korea is not known in chronicle, but it could be estimated to works in the early 19th century through it's remaining records and qualities of materials. And it was analysed the qualities of materials consisting of pigment layer, silken-ground layer and support layer in order to preserve buddhistic painting, made back-adherent paper of the support layer proper to it, tested its compatibility, and then concluded as follows. 1. The section structures of buddhistic painting is consisted of the pigment layer, silken-ground layer of silk and the support layer of Korean hand made paper, it could be recognized that buddhistic painting in 19th century was basically composed of the pigment layer, the silken-ground layer and the support layer. Moreover the pigment layer and the silken-ground layer got adhered with glue, and sheets of support layers got back adhered with paste. 2. The support layer of buddhistic painting consisted of 5 layers and two kinds of paper were used for them. The first and second layers were composed of Korean hand made paper made of pure paper mulberry bast fibers, and the rest of them of paper that paper mulberry bast fibers were mixed into recycled hemp fibers. Though it is difficult to assert without the security of more data, finding out the then situation through the qualities of materials, it was presumed that the society in 19th century was suffered from economical difficulties and the operation of the paper industry of temples was rather difficult and so low-qualitative recycled hemp fibers might used for back-adherent paper. 3. Considering tension between silken-ground layers and support layers of this materials, newly made back-adherent paper was used for repair, and then I could conform that it was proper to back-adherent paper for repair.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.57-68
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• 2020

Objective : The aim of present study was to clarify the effect of Areca Semen and Toosendan Fructus Mixture (AT-mix) on chronic reflux esophagitis (CRE) in rats. Methods : The antioxidant activity of AT-mix was measured through DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities in vitro. CRE was induced in SD rats (5 weeks, male) by ligating the border forestomach and granular portion with 2-0 silk and the duodenum near the pyloric portion was covered with 2-mm wide piece of 18-Fr Nélaton catheter. And then rats were treated AT-mix 200 mg/kg one daily for 14 days. The anti-oxidant and inflammatory protein levels were evaluated using western blotting. Results : Gross lesion of esophageal mucosa after AT-mix treatment showed a superior enhancement compared with that of CRE control rats. AT-mix treatment strongly reduced both DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities (DPPH, IC₅₀ 8.15±0.14 ㎍/mL; ABTS, IC₅₀ 24.69±0.03 ㎍/mL, repspectively). Levels of the NADPH oxidase subunit including NOX4 and p22^phox increased in CRE control rats. Otherwise, AT-mix treatment significantly reduced. The activation of Nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) led to significantly the up-regulation of HO-1. The inhibition of IκBα phosphorylation led to NF-κB inactivation. Subsequently, NF-κB inactivation significantly induced the decrease of COX-2, iNOS, TNF-α, and IL-6 protein expressions. Conclusion : Taken together, these results suggest that AT-mix treatment can attenuate the esophageal mucosal ulcer though inhibiting NF-κB pathway and enhancing Nrf2/HO-1 pathway. Thus, the additional mechanism study about AT-mix would need for the development as a safe herbal therapy for CRE.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.5-19
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• 1983

Sacredotal robe(法服) means full court dress. We can't know about the shape of sacredotal robe before Dae-Han Empire(大韓帝國) since there are no remains of it. The study of sacredotal robe for queen have also been made centering around the socredotal robe granted from Ming(明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui(翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for queen from King Gong-Min(恭愍王) of Koryeo(高麗) dynasty to the close the Cho-Sun(朝鮮) dynasty by investigating the Literature of Cho-sun Dynasty Chronicles(朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue(嘉禮都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae(尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae(國婚定例), Sok-Orae Eui-Bo(續五禮儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jeon(大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min., which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan and Juck Eui of the 9th grade had been given from Ming dynasty. The sacredotal robe for queen in Chosun had been granted from Ming dynasty since the 3th years of King Tae-Jo(太祖) to the 3th years of King In-Jo(仁祖). They were Ju Chui Chil Juck Gwan, red Dae Sam(大衫), Bae Ja(褙子) embroidered with. pheasants on blue silk, and ivory flat baton (笏), which belonged to the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Qing(淸) dynasty succeeded to Ming dynasty, Cho-sun adopted the system of luck Eui which had it's origin in the system of Ming, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of sacredotal robe for queen actually used was one which were different from the dress system of Ming and converted into our national ways. In the latter period. of Cho-sun, the system of Bae Ja or Juck Eui were used together until the period of King Young Jo(英祖), and the system of Juck Eui which was written in Gook Hon Jung Rae was continually used from King Young Jo to the close of Cho-sun. It was composed of Juck Eui, Beol Eui(別衣), Nae Eui(內衣), Pe Sool(蔽膝), Dae Dae(大帶), HaPi, Sang(裳), Ok Dae(玉帶), Pae Ok(佩玉), Gue(圭), Mal(襪), Suk, and Myun sa(面紗), The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan(翟冠). The color of Juck Eui was red for queen, deep blue for the consort of the crown prince. The color of Juck Eui in DaHan Empire was deep blue, different from that of Juck Eui in Cho-sun. Bo(補) for queen wus embroidered with dragon with five claws and the one for the consort of crown prince with dragon with four claws. The back length of Juck Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺), and the front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similiar to Bong(鳳) were embroidered on Juck Eui for queen. But we can't find out whether there 31 or 51 on Juck Eui for the consort of the crown prince. The system shows independant aspects, because there are Bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha Pi, Beol Eui, and Nae Eui which were not found in the system of Ming. As mentioned above, I have studied on the sacredotal robe for queen. But we can't guess the detail of sacredotal robe for queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.43-59
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• 2008

Sap(?, a funeral fan) is a funeral ceremonial object used in association with a Confucian ceremonial custom, which was crafted by making a wooden frame, attaching a white cloth or a thick paper onto it, drawing pictures on it, and making a holder for a handle. According to Liji(Records of Rites), Sap was used since the Zhou Dynasty, and these Chinese Sap examples are no big different than the Korean Sap examples, which were described in Joseon Wangjo Sillok(Annals of the Joseon Dynasty), Gukjo Oryeui(the Five Rites of the State), and Sarye Pyeollam(Handbook on Four Rituals). This study explored Sap excavated in lime-filled tombs and lime-layered tombs of aristocrats dating back to Joseon, as well as their historical records to examine Sap's characteristics according to their examples, manufacturing methods, and use time. The number and designs of Sap varied according to the deceased' social status aristocrats used mainly one pair of 亞-shaped Bulsap, and a pair of Hwasap with a cloud design depicted on it. A Sap was wrapped twice with Chojuji paper or Jeojuji paper, and for the third time with Yeonchangji paper. Then, it was covered with a white ramie, a hemp, a cotton, a silk satin, etc. Bobul(an axe shape and 亞-shape design) was drawn on both sides of Sap, and a rising current of cloud was drawn at the peripheral area mainly with red or scarlet pigments. Sap, which were excavated from aristocrats'lime-filled and lime-layered tombs, are the type of Sap which were separated from its handle. These excavated Sap are those whose long handles were burnt during the death carriage procession, leaving Sap, which later were erected on both sides of the coffin. The manufacturing process of excavated relics can be inferred by examining them. The excavated relics are classified into those with three points and those with two points according to the number of point. Of the three-point type(Type I), there is the kind of relic that was woven into something like a basket by using a whole wood plate or cutting bamboo into flat shapes. The three-point Sap was concentrated comparatively in the early half of Joseon, and was manufactured with various methods compared with its rather unified overall shape. In the meantime, the two-point Sap was manufactured with a relatively formatted method; its body was manufactured in the form of a rectangle or a reverse trapezoid, and then its upper parts with two points hanging from them were connected, and the top surface was made into a curve(Type II) or a straight line(Type III) differentiating it from the three-point type. This manufacturing method, compared with that of the three-point type, is simple, but is not greatly different from the three-point type manufacturing method. In particular, the method of crafting the top surface into a straight line has been used until today. Of the examined 30 Sap examples, those whose production years were made known from the buried persons'death years inscribed on the tomb stones, were reexamined, indicating that type I was concentrated in the first half of the $16^{th}$ century. Type II spanned from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century to the second half of the $17^{th}$ century, and type III spanned from the first half of the $17^{th}$ century to the first half of the $18^{th}$ century. The shape of Sap is deemed to have changed from type I to type II and again from type II to type III In the $17^{th}$ century, which was a time of change, types II and III coexisted. Of the three types of Sap, types II and III re similar because they have two points; thus a noteworthy transit time is thought to have been the middle of the $16^{th}$ century. Type I compared with types II and III is thought to have required more efforts and skills in the production process, and as time passed, the shape and manufacturing methods of Sap are presumed to have been further simplified according to the principle of economy. The simplification of funeral ceremonies is presumed to have been furthered after Imjinwaeran(Japanese invasion of Joseon, 1592~1598), given that as shown in the Annals of King Seonjo, state funerals were suspended several times. In the case of Sap, simplification began from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century, and even in the $18^{th}$ century, rather than separately crafting Sap, Sap was directly drawn on the coffin cover and the coffin. However, in this simplification of form, regulations on the use of Sap specified in Liji were observed, and thus the ceremony was rationally simplified.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-291
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• 1991

Kasugadaisha was built in the 9th century at Nara, Japan and it was the powerful Fujiwara's Shrine at that time. And also Wakamiyasai which has transmitted from generation to generation about for 1200 years at Kasugadaisha is typical sacrificial service of Nara Ages and it was built up with the historical background from Korean peninsula, especially Bekje. So it could be presumed to be important data to survey the sacrificial service in order to study on the ancient dietary culture of Korean and Japanese. 1) They used a live flower or paper flower in every sacrificial services. But in Korea, it has been used not only in the sacrificial services but also in happy events. And also it has been changed to use silk or developed rice cake instead of paper. 2) Steamed rice cake in Siru has been taken after boiled rice and unpolished rice. 3) Fried rice cake like doughnut was beginning of fried cake like Yak-kwa. 4) Four colors of red, yellow, green and white are symbolic at the high offering. There are a lot of cake, candy and some kind of biskuit four colors used in every events even now in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.715-722
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• 2003

This study is to investigate effects of green tea and capsulated components mixture on body fat and serum lipid composition and fat distribution in college women students in terms of supplemented periods. During 3 months of this research, 34 college women students (average age 20.3 yr) were selected as subjects. Nutrient intake was investigated by questionnaire and 24-hr recall method. Anthropolatric assessments of the subjects were investigated by SBIA method (Segmental Bioimpedance Assay, Inbody 3.0). The results were as follows: mean body height was 162.5cm and mean body weight and mean BMI (Body Mass Index, kg/$m^2$) were 57.9kg and 21.9, respectively. Status of carbohydrate intake decreased significantly (p<0.05) and dietary fiber intake increased significantly (p<0.001) after supplementation. WHR (waist-hip ratio) decreased significantly (p<0.05) and body fat and percent body fat decreased significantly after supplementation (p<0.05). Total cholesterol and triglyceride decreased significantly after supplementation (p<0.001). Above results of this study show that green tea, silk peptide and dietary fiber supplementation-added routine diet improves body fat distribution, total cholesterol, triglyceride. Especially, declination of abdominal fat and WHR was notable, since that means diminution of risk factors for obesity and chronic degenerative diseases.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

This study examined the costumes of the characters in the painting titled Hig yongru Banghwoedo, which was designated as National Treasure No. 1879 in September 2015, and is currently kept in the Dongguk University Museum. The painting depicts a social gathering of Joseon aristocrats held at the higyongru, or watch tower, of the Gwangjumok, a government office, in 1567. It is characterized by the delicate illustration of the government officials, the main characters of the gathering, and the hyangri, ajeon, najang, chorye, akgong, and yeogi, the lower-class employees of the office. In order to investigate the costumes they wore, diverse materials including literature, costume artifacts, and paintings were used as reference sources. The scope of the study was limited to the characters' headdress and gown, and the accessories attached to the former. The study of men's clothing revealed that officials wore a samo and a red dalryeong as basic attire. In addition, it is presumed that they wore a belt indicating their official rank in the hierarchy, and a pair of black shoes. Retired officials wore a heuklip wrapped in horsehair or silk fabric with a red jing-nyeong and a doah. The hyangri wore a heukjukbanglip on their head, as well as a white jing-nyeong and a belted doah. In the Goryeo period, the banglip was a type of official headdress worn by members of the aristocratic elite ranked immediately below the king, but in Joseon it was demoted as the official headgear of the hyangri class, which was confirmed through Higyongru Banghwoedo. The ajeon wore a heuklip on their head, and a white jing-nyeong and a doah at the waist. As a rule, the najang wore a chogun on the head, and a banbieui on cheolrik and chungmokdai, but the najang in Higyongru Banghwoedo are depicted wearing a chogun and a cheolrik without a banbieui. Also, the chorye wore a heuklip wrapped in hemp cloth with a red cheolrik, whereas the akgong wore a somoja and a red cheolrik. Female entertainers, both adults and children, are depicted in the painting as either serving the aristocrats, dancing, or playing a musical instrument, wearing their hair in a voluminous, round, high bun, and dressed in a red daiyo, a hwangjangsam with a straight or reclined collar, and a belt. Notably, the donggi, i.e. young gisaeng, are shown wearing their hair in two short braids, and ddressed in a red gown with a y-shaped collar, or po.