• Title/Summary/Keyword: Silk-I

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A Study on Sasanian Costume Depicted on Rock Reliefs at Taq-I Bustan (타퀴이 부스탄 부조에 묘사된 사산조 복식연구)

  • Youngsoo Chang
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.1-25
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    • 2023
  • Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs are relatively well preserved among Sassanid relics. They are considered concrete and empirically important materials for studying Sassanian culture. In these rock reliefs, inauguration of various kings and hunting scenes are depicted. Thus, kings' attire and life of the court could be discerned according to eras. The purpose of this study was to investigate Sassanian clothing styles of various social positions by analyzing their clothing depicted in rock reliefs and to improve comprehension of the culture of the Sassanian Dynasty. Methodically, literature studies and artifacts were analyzed in parallel. Data of these two insources were consolidated for comparison. Results of this study are as follows. Since the Sassanian Dynasty succeeded the Parthian Dynasty, the Parthian style of clothing pieces such as tunic and trousers appeared in their attire. Basic types of tunics and trousers did not vary according to social status or age. However, details showed differences in those aspects. In the early Sassanian Dynasty, the dressing style of Rome was adopted. Styles of tunic and trousers featured draperies with many wrinkles and shoes were worn instead of boots. Trousers were tied with laces at ankles and laces were decorated with round clasps, imitating the style used by Kushan kings to the east of Sasanians. External cultural elements were also present in costumes of the Sassanian Dynasty, which played a bridging role for cultural exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations at the gateway of the Silk Road.

Degrees of Heterosis and Inbreeding Depression of Quantitative Characters in Silkworm by Diallel Corsses (누에 이면교잡에 의한 형질발현의 잡종강세와 약세)

  • 정원복;장권열
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.20-24
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    • 1989
  • The purpose of this experiment was to obtain the basic information on heterosis and inbreeding depression of quantitative characters in the silkworm by diallel crosses of seven varieties differing widely in each character. Period of 5th instar cocoon weight, cocoon layer weight, cocoon layer ratio, boiling off ratio, raw silk percent, bave length, bave weight, bave size, weight of first molting larva and fourth molting larva were investigated. The results obtained were summarized as follows : The degrees of positive heterosis of cocoon weight and cocoon layer weight were higher. Period of 5th instar and boiling off ratio were negative heterosis. In F1 generation, cocoon weight and bave weight showed positive heterobeltiosis, while fifth instar-period, cocoon layer ratio and boiling off ratio showed negative heterobeltiosis in the F1 and F2 generation. Inbreeding depression was observed in cocoon layer ratio and boiling off ratio.

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Correlation among Shell Percent, Cocoon Yield and Reeling Parameters of Multi × Bi Cocoons under Different Agro-Climatic Conditions of West Bengal, India

  • Chanda, Subhra;Saha, Lal Mohan;Das, Nirvan Kumar;Kar, Niharendu Bikash;Bindroo, Bharat Bhusan
    • International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.74-80
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    • 2013
  • Three new Multi ${\times}$ Bi combinations M.Con.4 ${\times}$ (SK6 ${\times}$ SK7), M.Con.4 ${\times}$ NB4D2 and Nistari ${\times}$ (SK6 ${\times}$ SK7) were studied in five seasons i.e. during the period of $18^{th}$ June - $12^{th}$ July, $30^{th}$ August - $23^{rd}$ September, $3^{rd}$ November - $2^{nd}$ December, $29^{th}$ January- $2^{nd}$ March and $30^{th}$ March-$25^{th}$ April with one control Nistari ${\times}$ NB4D2 considering nine reeling characteristics along with shell percent and cocoon yield per 100 disease free layings (DFLs) to establish the seasonal effect on all the parameters. Results reveal that all the characters performed well in November-December. Highest yield per 100 DFLs was recorded during November-December in all combinations showing >60 kg yield. Higher correlation of yield/100 DFLs with filament length, non-breakable filament length, denier, raw silk percent, reelability percent and recovery percent was recorded in all combinations of Multi ${\times}$ Bi considered in this study. Variability observed among four combinations indicates the effect of different temperature and humidity of different seasons on expression of different traits. The results indicate that there is significant relationship of raw silk percent with reelability percent, recovery percent and evenness. Reelability percent showed higher correlation with recovery percent. It was observed that neatness was positively correlated with evenness. The overall performance of the newly evolved combinations with regard to productivity and reeling characteristics is discussed emphasizing their utilization at commercial level.

Studies on Sex-linked Inheritance of Quantitative Characters in Direct and Reciprocal Crosses of Silkworm Bombyx mori L.

  • Reddy, N.Mal;Basavaraja, H.K.;Dar, A.K.;Kumar, N.Suresh;Dandin, S.B.
    • International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.15-20
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    • 2003
  • The present investigation was carried out to study the possible cause for reciprocal difference in silkworm hybrids. By utilising the polyvoltine race Pure Mysore (PM) and newly evolved breeds (CSR2, CSR5, CSR16 and CSR17), the direct and reciprocal crosses of polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine and also bivoltine hybrids were studied. The hybrids of polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine (direct) are superior to their reciprocal crosses in respect of cocoon yield, cocoon weight and filament length. The reciprocal crosses of polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine are superior to their direct crosses in respect of fecundity and short larval duration. No significant differences were observed in the characters like cocoon shell ratio, raw silk percentage, denier, reelability and neatness in both polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine direct crosses and their reciprocals. The expression of cocoon characters as a function of sex revealed that direct crosses (polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine) showed higher cocoon weight, pupal weight, shell weight and longer filament length in females than the reciprocal crosses (bivoltine ${\times}$ polyvoltine), where as these characters in males were almost the same in both direct and reciprocal crosses, indicating that the sex-linked genetic factor played a more important role. it was clear that difference in cocoon yield observed in reciprocal crosses of polyvoltine ${\times}$ bivoltine was due to the low cocoon and shell weight in females which was turn due to presence of early maturity genes (Lme) linked with sex-chromosome (X) which effect on larvae period of the silkworm. In bivoltine hybrids, i.e., both direct and their reciprocals crosses, all the characters viz., hatching percentage, larval duration, survival, cocoon weight, cocoon shell weight, cocoon shell ratio, raw silk percentage, filament length, denier, reelability and neatness did not show any significant difference (except number of eggs laid by moth) which could account for presence of same maturity genes (Lm) in both direct and reciprocal crosses. it was clear that reciprocal differences occur when the hybrids are prepared from the parental strains with different voltinism.

A Study on Voluptuous Beauty of Females Found in Music Videos by Popular Music Genre (대중음악 장르별 뮤직비디오 의상에 나타난 여성 관능미에 관한 연구)

  • Seo, Eun-Hee;Choi, Jeong-Wook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.2
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    • pp.154-168
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    • 2009
  • This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

A Study on Dyeability and Antibiotic Activities of Natural Dyeing with Artemisia (쑥을 이용한 천연염색의 염색성과 항균성에 관한 연구)

  • Song Kyung-Hun;Baik Cheon-Eui
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.79-86
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    • 2006
  • This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with artemisia in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia and investigates the antibiotic activities of artemisia. After dyeing cotton, rayon, silk, wool and nylon fabrics with dyebath extracted from artemisia, observation on dyeability by temperature, concentration and time has been carried out. And I took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. Also observation on the antibiotic properties of non-dyed fabrics, artemisia-dyed fabrics and artemisia-dyed fabrics with post-mordant has been performed to investigate the antibiotic activities of artemisia. And the following results have been obtained. 1. The dyeability of artemisia was better for protein fabrics such as silk or woo and amide-based synthetic fabrics like nylon than for cellulose fabrics such as cotton and rayon. 2. For all tested fabrics, the dyeability was increased as the concentration of artemisia dyebath, dyeing time and dyeing temperature was increased. Especially the dye ability for protein fabrics was most affected by the temperature, and high dyeability was obtained at high temperatures. 3. For the color fastness of artemisia-dyed fabrics with mordanting treatment, the color fastness to washing was good with grade of 4-5 while the color fastness to light ranged from grade 2 to grade 3, which requires improvement for practical use. 4. The artemisia-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the artemisia-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; Cu 99.9%, Al 64% and bittern 64.7%.

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Studies on the Applicability of Tosylchloramide Sodium $(Halamid{\circledR})$ to Silkworm Rearing Industry as a useful Disinfectant (Tosylchloramide Sodium $(Halamid{\circledR})$의 잠실 잠구 및 잠체소독약으로서의 응용가능성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, J.N.;Lim, J.S.;Suh, I.S.
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 1972
  • During the autumn-rearing season of 1971, at the silkworm rearing house at the college of agriculture, Seoul national university in Korea, the authors carried out a series of experiments (1) on the susceptibility of four important silkworm pathogens (Aspergillus flavus, Bacillus thuringiensis, Aspergillus oryzae, and Isaria farinosa) to Halamid (Tosylchloramide Sodium), (2) on the acute toxicity of Halamid to silkworm larvae at every instar, (3) on the inhibiting effect of Halamid to the attack of two silkworm infections, fungal muscardine and viral jundice, and the chronic toxicity of Halamid to silkworm larvae, and (4) on the yield and quality of the raw silk harvested from the Halamid treated silkworms. As the results of the experiments the authors found that Halamid could be applied usefully to silk worm rearing industry as an effective disinfectant for both silkworms themselves and their envir onmental articles, rearing houses and tools, also that Halamid exerts its disinfectant effect most efficiently as a disinfectant for silkworms when sprayed in 2% or 3% aqueous solution every second day throughout all tile instars of larval stage.

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A Study of Costumes in the $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller's Dance (로이 풀러의 무대 의상에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Yoo-Jin
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.878-890
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    • 2008
  • As a pioneer of modem dance, $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller($1869\sim1928$) was important because she introduced a free style dance using a new style of stage costumes. Also, $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller was an important motif in $fin-de-si{\grave{e}}cle$, French arts, posters, sculptures, and so forth. This study aimed to clarify the characteristics of Fuller's dance and costumes, and to analyze the modernism in both. To better understand Fuller's dance, this article talks about research on Fuller's career, dance, and Fuller's own biography. Stage costumes, letters for patent, and photographs were are also studied. The most important elements of Fuller's dance were her costumes and the electric lights which could make free style expressions a fantastic representation of dance. To clarify the modernity of Fuller's dance, first of all, this study researched Fuller's career in dance and then analyzed representations of Fuller's dances in visual arts; posters, sculptures and lastly, the characteristics of Fuller's stage costumes. As a result, this article analyzed characteristics of Fuller's dance in three points. First, Fuller used sculptures of silk cloth's drapery to express physical movements and actions. Second, Fuller used lighting and electrical effects that had just been developed in the late 19th Century. Third, Fuller made an application for patents against stage costume and stage mechanisms for her original shows. This study focused on $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller's stage costumes which played a main role in expressing fantastic sculptures for the first time in costume, visual arts, and dance studies. This study clarifies the characteristics of the stage costumes in Fuller's dance and is estimated as pioneering and fundamental research.

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Fabrication Process of Natural Silk Including Ag Nano-particle (은나노 입자가 함유된 천연실크 제조 방법)

  • Jung, I-Yeon;Kang, Pil-Don;Kim, Kee-Young;Ryu, Kang-Sun;Sohn, Bong-Hee;Kim, Yong-Soon;Kim, Mi-Ja;Lee, Kwang-Gill;Chai, Chang-Keun;Koh, Seok-Keun
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.49 no.1
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    • pp.24-27
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    • 2007
  • Silkworm fed on the mulberry leaf mixed with silver nanoparticle to produce silver-nanoparticle embedded cocoon. Comparative analysis of silver content of cocoon shell, percentage of pupation and percentage of cocoon-shell weight showed that the optimum concentration and the feeding period of mulberry leaf mixed with silver nanoparticle were 500 ppm and the period from 3 day 5 instar to mounting of silkworm. The silver content of cocoon was observed variously by silkworm breedings. C212 variety makes pale yellow cocoon with the highest silver content(69%). Using the scanning electron microscope, we showed that the size of silver nanoparticles in silk was observed from 26.98 to 99.81nm. Silver-nanoparticle embedded silk is expected to use as high valuable application owing to the different functional properties including antibiotic characteristics and mechanical and electronic properties. The applicable fields expected is antistatic and/or electronic products with biological degradable natural materials.

Microsporidian Multiplication and Spore Production in Various Tissues of Pupa and Adult, in Relation to Age and Development of Silkworm, Bombyx mori L.(Lepidoptera: Bombycidae)

  • Nanu, Madana Mohanan;Gupta, Sunil Kumar;Saratchandra, Beera;Haldar, Durga Prasad
    • International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.83-89
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    • 2009
  • Multiplication and spore production of three microsporidia(Nosema bombycis, Nosema sp. 1 and Nosema sp. 2) in selected tissues of pupa and adult of silkworm, Bombyx mori L. were studied in two seasons (SI, SII) with distinct temperature (SI: $20.1{\pm}0.8^{\circ}C$ and SII: $25.1{\pm}0.7^{\circ}C$) regimes. Multiplication of the microsporidia followed a logistic pattern with a lag phase, an exponential phase and a stationary phase. In SII, spore production was significantly (P<0.01) higher in various tissues. Highest spore production was observed 30 days post inoculation (p.i.) in SI and in SII, it was $21{\sim}23$ days p.i. Spore production was significantly (P<0.01) higher in the gut tissues than other tissues. Nosema sp. 2 registered significantly (P<0.01) higher spore production in both the seasons compared to Nosema bombycis and Nosema sp. 1. Results indicate that the multiplication and spore production of microsporidia are tissue specific and extremely sensitive to the temperature at which the host is reared. Through this study, the precise day that the spore numbers of the microsporidia are maximized can be predicted in both pupa and adult in case the infection is initiated in the first instar.