• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.81-85
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• 2015

Recently, many researchers have studied silk sericin because of its high water retention, good wound healing, good cyto-compatibility, and blood-glucose- and cholesterol-lowering effects. Although sericin film can be used in wound dressing and cosmetic packs, its poor mechanical properties have prevented its use in industrial fields. In the present study, sericin was obtained from different silkworm varieties, and the effect of silkworm variety on the structure and properties of sericin was examined. Except for a small difference in serine content, no significant difference in sericin was noted among the silkworm varieties. In addition, silkworm variety almost had no effect on solution viscosity, implying that it does not influence the molecular weight of sericin. Mechanical properties of sericin film were strongly affected by silkworm variety. Wonwon 126 showed the best mechanical properties, while N74 and Geumgwangju displayed the worst properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Sericultural Science Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.100-100
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• 2002

No Abstract, See Full Text

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study investigates the crystallinity distribution of ancient silk. Owing to the inherent multi-hierarchical structure of silk protein and the complicated structural changes that occur due to various burial environments, it is challenging but worthwhile to study ancient silk ageing behavior, which is based on the fact that ageing begins with a single fiber and then spreads to a whole fabric. Crystallinity was one of the most effective indicators found to reveal the ageing status of silk. Therefore, a synchrotron radiation-based X-ray diffraction(SR-XRD) method was employed to study the crystallinity distribution of single fibers of ancient silk unearthed from seven archaeological sites in China from historical periods including the warring states, Han dynasty, Song dynasty, and Ming dynasty. In comparison, the conventional X-ray diffraction method, which uses large amounts of samples, was also performed to determine the integral crystallinity of ancient silk. Thermal stability experiments by thermogravimetry(TG) as well as morphology observations by scanning electron microscopy(SEM) and optical microscopy(OM) all confirmed the deterioration of ancient silk. Moreover, the ageing mechanism of ancient silk was proposed with the assistance of an artificial ageing study. The results confirmed the effectiveness of SR-XRD as an ageing indicator, revealing the crystallinity distribution. This research could provide motivation to determine the deterioration status of ancient silk, and would also aid in explaining the fragility of ancient silk due to ageing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.14-19
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• 1990

The setting behavior of disulfide-enriched wool and disulfide-crosslinked silk obtained by treatment with a disulfide-containing crosslinking agent, bis $(\beta-isocyanatoethyl)$ dissulfide was compared with that of untreated wool and silk under the absence and the presence of a reducing agent. Rearrangment of secondary bonds facilitated by cleavage of crosslinks as well as rearrangement of crosslinks itself seems to play an important role in the set stability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.385-390
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• 1999

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with green tea colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as concentration pH dyeing temperature and time on dye uptakes and effect of mordants on color change and dye uptakes, And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. Green tea colorants showed relatively good affinity to silk fabric and produced yellowish red color. Langmuir adsoption isotherm was obtained. Therefore it is considered that ionic bondings between colorants and silk fibers are formed. Mordants did not improve dye uptakes and affect color of dyed fabrics significantly. But mordanting adversely affected lightfastness of dyed fabrics. Regardless of mordanting colorfastness to perspiration especially in alkaline condition of dyed fabrics showed low rating compared with other colorfastness. It is concluded that mordanting is not necessary for silk dyeing with green tea colorants.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-5
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• 2005

In this study, we attempted to evaluate a novel use of sericin-fixed silk fiber (SFx) as an immobilization support of enzyme. Sericin was fixed on the silk fiber using glutaraldehyde as a fixation reagent. After 6 hours of fixation, the degree of fixation increases linearly with linear decrease of the amount of bound $\alpha$-chymotrypsin (CT). This suggests that the increase of the degree of fixation is due to the further crosslinking of free aldehyde groups on the surface of sericin-fixed silk fiber (SFx). Even though perfect fixation was not achieved, sericin did not dissolve seriously and could be removed by further washing. The specific activity did not differ significantly after 6 hours of fixation. The activity of immobilized CT on SFx decreased to its half after 6 hours of incubation at 50$^{\circ}C$. However, it retained $78\%$ of initial activity even after 1 hour of treat­ment with $100\%$ ethanol. As a result, the SFx could be used as an immobilization support of enzyme in non-aqueous media at ambient temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.279-285
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• 2005

In order to activate the characteristics of charcoals in fiber systems, this study was carried out to experiment with the particle size from two micrometers to ten micrometers of charcoal powders on silk fabrics. The results obtained were as follows; The silk fabrics were dyed with gray color by charcoals effectively. The K/S value, that is indicative of the dye affinity, became higher as the increase of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing concentration. Te dyeing effects were the highest with 50%(o.w.f.) of charcoals at $100^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes in this experiments, It was observed the surfaces of silk fibers were mainly adcorbed with charcoal powders of the particle size from two micrometers to four micrometers by scanning electron microscope. Dyed silk fabrics showed comparatively low fastness to the fade of launding, the stain of the treatment of perspirations, and the strain of water fastness test, but good fastness to the stran of laundering, te drycleaning, the fade of treatment of perspirations, and the fade of water fastness test. In connection with the functional properties of dyed fabrics, the deodorizations were drastically improved, and the far-infrared emissions improved highly, and also the antibacterials were comparatively good.