• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.241-248
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• 2001

Natural indigo dyeing has been used mainly on cellulosic fibers and silk during the course of history in Korea. In order to extend the usage of this one of the most important natural dyes, its dyeability on wool fabrics has been studied to find out the optimum dyeing condition for wool fiber which is susceptible to alkaline medium. The dyeing method used was hydrosulphite vat of extracted dye. K/S values of dyed fabrics were investigated to analyze the dyeability of natural indigo on wool fibers and colors were measured through $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell Values. Highest K/S values were obtained at the temperature of 60(C and pH 7 to 8. The Munsell Values for hue of wool fabrics dyed with extracted indigo powder using hydrosulphite vat fell mostly in PB range. As the dyebath pH increased, blueness increased. Different dyeing conditions resulted in change of colors of dyed fabrics due to the difference in amounts of indigotin and indirubin contents within the dyed fiber as shown by HPLC.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.171-179
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• 2017

This study was to investigate the practicality and functionality of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a natural dye resource while searching for various dyeing methods to utilize them. Effect of dyeing condition including methanol ratio of dyebath, dyeing temperature and time, mordanting method, etc were investigated. Colorants were prepared by extraction in methanol and followed drying process. When composing 30% of methanol in the dyebath, better dyeuptake and uniform dyeing were resulted. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method on the wool fabrics. Fe and Ti were effective for increasing the dye uptake on the silk fabrics. Depending on mordant type and mordanting method, the dyed fabrics got various color showing green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. As for color fastness, the silk fabrics dyed with water lily extract showed relatively high rating in light fastness(3~4, 4~5 rating), washing fastness(4~5, 5 rating), and rubbing fastness(4, 4~5 rating). The silk and wool fabrics dyed with water lily leaves extract showed excellent antimicrobial activity over 98% of bacterial reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. It was confirmed that water lily leaves can be used as a natural dye resource for dyeing wool and silk fabrics because its colorants showed excellent affinity and antimicrobial functionality as well as good colorfastness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.863-875
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to survey the clothing behavior, care and the fiber preferences of multi-cultural families living in Korea. The data was collected using questionnaire surveys based on pre-tests, and a main survey conducted in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province and Chungcheong Province. The 258 participants came from 151 multi-cultural families and 107 Korean families. The results of this study were as follows: First, Filipinos owned more clothes than the Chinese and bought clothes more frequently. The Filipinos spent 10,000~30,000 Korean won on all types of clothing. Each time, the Chinese spent more money when purchasing jackets. Second, when health was the greatest concern for underclothes, they chose cotton fiber as their preferred fiber. When beauty was of greatest concern for blouses they chose cotton. When beauty was of greatest concern for skirts and jackets they chose natural fibers such as silk, wool or linen. Filipinos preferred synthetic fibers because they are easy to care for, and the Chinese preferred natural fibers due to their beauty, especially for pants. Third, multi-cultural families laundered at home using only a washing machine. All fibers were laundered together into the washer without any sorting. This study can contribute to providing basic data for an understanding of the clothing behavior and laundry styles of multi-cultural families which may be useful data in the apparel market in Korea given the relative and direct changes relevant to various clothing cultures.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.303-308
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• 2004

A natural colorant was extracted from Cassia tara L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2-11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tara L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Cassia tara L. extract at $60^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found that Cassia tara L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 >CuSO_4> ZnSO_4> MnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > NiSo_4 > none$, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 > CuSO_4 > ZnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > MnSO_4\cong NiSO_4 > none$. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference $(\DeltaE)$ between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants $FeSO_4$ and CuSO_4$ for cotton fabric, $FeSO_4,\; CuSO_4,\; and\; Al_2(S0_4)_3$ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.383-390
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• 1988

To investigate the soil-redeposition and color change on dry-cleaning, the white and, dyed, fabrics of cotton, silk, polyester and viscose rayon were put into ordinary commercial dry-cleaning machine with soiled cloths. The solvents used were hydrocarben, perchloroethylene and fluorocarbon. From the result, we obtained the following conclusions by examining soil-redeposition, color difference of fabrics and tenacity of cotton fabric. 1. In case of white fabrics, as a whole, perchloroethylene shows the lowest soil redeposition. When distillation process is adopted, the rate of soil redeposition is lowered. with hydrocarbon sdvent. The order of soil redeposition rate of fibers are following; cotton> viscose rayon> silk> polyester. 2. In case of dyed fabrics, the color difference between soil redeposited fabrics and originals ($\delta\;E_1$) is similar with white fabrics in pattern, and the order is cotton, viscose rayon, silk and polyester. The color difference between fabrics, treated by pure solvents and originals ($\delta\;E_2$ ) is also validated as a little. It seems to be due to the bleeding of dyestuffs from fabrics. 3. There is a little change of tenacity of cotton fabrics by dry-cleaning with perchloroethylene solvent. It is supposed that the damage is more influenced the repetitive mechanical action during dry-cleaning than by acidity of the solvent having the acid value of 0,14.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.73-84
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• 2005

Collections in the buddhist statue owned by Dr. Jong-Hm Baik(白宗欽) included 3 ancient documents and 2 wooden cylinders that showed a clear historical order. The temple and buddhist statue that these objects were belonged to were not known, however, according to the document, it could be inferred as Chunsukwaneumsang(천수관음상) created in 1322 and reformed in 1614 from the list of donator for the statue. Inside a wooden cylinder, a bundle of ivory, yellow, green, orange, and dark brown fabrics that were folded up and tided up with 5 different colored thread strands and aromatic trees and rice plant was placed on the bottom. All the fabrics were silk. Three thread strands were silk. The white and blue strands were cotton fibers as a result of analysis of IR spectrum and the microscope. According to a radioactive carbon isotope dating by accelerator mass spectroscopy, years before present was 160$\pm$40, and cablibrated ages were 1680-1890 (79.3$\%$), 1910-1960(16.1$\%$) in 95.4$\%$ probability. Accordingly, the fabrics in the buddhist statue proved to be reformed in 1614 not the original ones in 1322.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.165-171
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• 2001

In this study, UV/vis. spectra of color solution extracted from onion shell and dyeing properties of polyamide fibers such as wool, silk, and nylon were investigated. Also, the effect of mordanting on wash fastness and light fastness was Investigated. The amount of colors extracted was increased with extracting temperature and time. The wavelength of maximum absorption of onion shell extract corresponds to flavonol peak and quercetin peak. Also, spectra of color solution were shifted to longer wavelength at higher pH values. It appeared that the optimum condition of the dyeing of wool, nylon, and silk fabrics with onion shell extract was $60^\circ{C}$ , 30min, and pH 4.0 of dyed bath. Surface colors of the dyed fabrics were different according to the used mordants: Al and Cr mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, Cu mordanted fabric in greenish color, Sn mordanted fabric in orange color, and Fe mordanted fabric in khaki color. The mordanting was effective at improving wash fastness and light fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.306-311
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• 2001

Natural colorants haute attracted much attention all over the world because of their non-hazardous nature. The world is becoming increasingly aware of environmental Issues, such as ozone layer depletion, water pollution and waste disposal problems. The use of synthetic dyestuffs for their synthesis and application in the dyeing industries has been criticized due to introduction of contaminants into the environment. This has led to the desire to turn to the traditional, and more natural way of life. In this study, the colorants of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark were analysed and their dyeing properties on silk, wool and cotton were studied. It was found that uv-visible absorption spectra of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed two strong absorption Peaks in the range of 240 ∼400 In. From the result of IR spectra, the major ingredient of extract of Gikgo biloba bark seems to be the flavon which is one of the flavonoid derivatives. Silk, wool, and cotton dyed with the extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed a reddish yellow color. Their color differences were increased drastically with repetition of dyeing by three times.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.71-74
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• 2001

Surface characterization of materials has been considered critical in the development of biomaterials, as many unfavorable responses from the body occur at the interface between a material and the body component. The contact angle measurement is one means to characterize the surface properties and to correlate them to the biocompatibility of materials. In this paper, surface characteristics of silk fibroin/S-carboxymethyl kerateine, representative fibrous proteins, were investigated by contact angle measurements of ESCA. The biocompatibility of the blends was evaluated based on minimal interfacial free energy concept, and compared with other potential biomaterials. It was also hypothesized that the enhanced surface polarity of the blends was generated from the conformational transition of proteins. This approach to evaluate the biocompatibility of materials based on surface characteristics may find wide utility in many biomedical applications.