• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.78-87
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• 2005

In this thesis, we took some stalks, flowers, and leaves of the Hypericum ascyron L. which are able to propagate as mass in our wild to extract the dyeing solution, and cotton and silk were dyed using them in many different conditions. Silk was dyed darker than cotton with increasing the pH density. Silk was dyed darkest among Hypericum ascyron if pH was neutral. We found there was not a big difference between silk and cotton in the given condition considering 'Y' values vs. dyeing temperature. However cotton was dyed darker in hypericum ascyron. There was a rapid decreasing of 'Y' values after one to two hours and almost all of dyeing was completed at these times. We found there was a dyeing acceleration at the higher dyeing density and the lower 'Y' value. If the density was low, dyeing attachment was reduced by dyeing ability via the density of liquid in this plants. Silk was affected higher by mordant dyes in this plants. Fe and Cu had no effect on Hypericum ascyron.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.163-168
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• 1998

Hydrolysis rate and activation energy of Antheraea pernyi silk fiber treated with HCI were examined. Thermal decomposition temperature and surface morphology were also investigated by using differential scanning calorimeter and scanning electron microscope. As the concentration of hydrochloric acid and the treatment temperature increased, the hydrolysis occurred more rapidly. The activation energy of Antheraea pernyi, 74.0 kJ/mol, was higher than that of Bombyx mori, 58.1 kJ/mol. As the concentration of hydrochloric acid increases, the activation energy of Antheraea pernyi decreased from 74.0 kJ/mol to 62.0 kJ/mol. The shape of acid-resistance fraction of Antheraea pernyi became more distroyed and was transformed from fiber to powdered form with an increase of hydrolysis rate. The thermal decomposition temperature of Antheraea pernyi was 360.8$^{\circ}C$ until the hydrolysis rate was 81.8 wt%, but ti decreased to 347.0$^{\circ}C$ when the hydrolysis rate was 93.8 wt%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.431-439
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• 2014

This research verified the usefulness and practicality of citrus peel extract as a natural dye. This study dyed cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics using citrus peel extract, and measured the dyeability and functional property to verify their usefulness and practicality. The dyeing affinity of the citrus peel extract was measured by dyeing under alkaline conditions to determine the temperature and time for optimal dyeing conditions of the solution. The results show that a temperature and time of $60^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes were optimal for dyeing cotton fabrics with citrus peel extract, $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for silk fabrics, and $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics, respectively. In addition the results of measuring the color fastness of the cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics dyed with the citrus peel extract show that the color fastness was superior for washing, friction, sweat, and water. However, the color fastness for sunlight appeared to be slightly weak. In addition, it was found that fabric dyed with the citrus peel extract showed partial antimicrobial properties. The antimicrobial property appeared the greatest in the silk fabric. The cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics had 90% or more Staphylococcus aureus present, but the antimicrobial properties were not high in the cotton fabric. Additionally, the heavy metal content, which is harmful to the human body, appeared to be lower than standard figures, so the dye was found to be innocuous to humans. Therefore, when the results of this study are put together, citrus peel extract is sufficiently useful and practical as an ingredient for a natural dye. Moreover, there is ample possibility to develop citrus peel dyed fabrics as environmentally friendly fashion materials.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.40-46
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• 1994

In order to study the properties of cochineal color, variation of uv, visible spectra by pH, dyeing properties on the silk in several dyeing conditions and thermodynamic parameter were investigated. Cochineal colors had an unusual to pH, especially had instability in alkali condition. An increase in the dyeing temperature and in time resulted in an increase in the dye content of silk fibers. Concentration of cochineal color in the silk fiber was related to pH and the maximum exhaustion of cochineal colors showed at about pH 3. The value of apparent diffusion coefficients and standard affinities of dyeing increased with the increase of dyeing temperature. The standard heats of dyeing(ΔH°), variation of entropy(ΔS°) and activation energy(E/sub act/) were caculated to be -1.72kcal/mo1, -3.77cal/mo1ㆍdeg and 1.26kcal/mo1, respectively. Silk fabrics were dyed bright red by tin chloride, reddish purple by copper sulfate, and bluish gray by iron sulfate, respectively. Lightfastness of silk fabrics mordanted by metal ion was weak.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.67-73
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• 1994

The adsorption behaviors of acid dye and disperse dye on silk and nylon fabrics were examined, in one bath dyeing system on silk/nylon blend fabric with disperse dyes and acid dyes. In the dyeing of nylon fabric with C. I. Disperse Red 19 (Red 19) and C. I. Disperse Red 60 (Red 60), dye uptake of Red 19 was higher than that of Red 60. When silk/nylon blend fabric was dyed with Red 19 and Red 0, the dye uptake on nylon was influenced by the ffinity of the dye to the silk fabric. In the dyeing of silk/nylon with C. I. Acid Blue 80 and C. I. Acid Yellow 121, solid shade could not be obtained with the conventional method but could be obtained with the dyeing resist agent for nylon. There was not any relationship between K/S value and Munsell value, but Munsell value tended to change with the K/S value.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.56-62
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• 1998

In the prior study, the dyeing behaviors of Milling Cyanine 5R on silk fiber in aqueous dyeing liquor including small amount of organic compounds were investigated. The most effective compound was acetophenone which increased dye uptake as well as dyeing rate. In this study, the role of the acetophenone in dyeing of silk with Milling Cyanine 5R was studied. By addition of acetophenone into the dye solution, the molar absorptivity of Milling Cyanine 5R increased, and the wavelength of maximum absorption was shifted to longer wavelength, namely bathochromic shifted. This shows that the acetophenone prevents the dye to aggregate, and increases the number of monomeric dye molecule relative to the dye solution without acetophenone. This fact was also confirmed by the increase of the permeation rate of the dye through cellulose semipermeable membrane from the dye solution including the acetophenone. From these results, the acetophenone acts as a prohibitor of dye aggregation, increases the number of monomeric dye molecules even at relatively low temperature, and makes the dyes penetrate into the fiber easier.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.62-66
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• 1997

The MAA graftings in silk fiber were done by redox system for the purpose of investingating the effect of ferrous sulfate additive on the grafting rate and graft ratio in various conditions. The graft ratio was higher in redox graft system than in peroxide graft system and the graft ratio in redox graft system was also higher depending on decrease of ferrous sulfate additive. The saturation graft ratio obtained by empirical equation, log X=K/t, was increasing depending on the increase of ferrous sulfate additive. Initial grafting rate was increased but the latter grafting rate was decreased in redox graft system. The effects of liquor ratio(L.R.) on the graft ratio in redox graft system, were higher in high L.R. than in low L.R..

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.57-66
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• 2003

Cochineal dyeing was applied to natural fiber fabrics, cotton and silk fabrics, and synthetic fiber fabrics, nylon and polyester fabrics. Chitosan-pretreatment was applied to the fabrics in order to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing behavior. The effect of chitosan treatment on the mordanting was also investigated by incorporating Cu-mordant on the chitosan-treated or chitosan-untreated fabrics during the dyeing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.