• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.768-777
• /
• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.49
• /
• pp.73-84
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate dyeing properties of silk and wool fabric by Cassia tora extracts according to the conditions such as extraction(temperature time) dyeing(temperature time) condition kinds of mordants temperature of mordanting. The color fastness of laundering irradiation were examined. The results were as follows: The wavelength of maximum absorpthion by extracts appeared at 201, 277, 382nm in UV-Vis spectrum. Absorbance of extracts were increased with temperature and time. The extraction efficiency of Cassia tora was determined as $95^\circ{C}$ of extraction temperature 120 minutes of extraction time. Silk fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 90min at $40^\circ{C}$. Wool fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 60min at $80^\circ{C}$. Surface color of silk and wool fabric dyed with Cassia tora extracts was 3,9Y and 0.4Y but it was changed from 9.3YR to 7,4Y and from 9.4YR to 5Y by mordants. The fabrics of mordanted by metal ion dyed the depth of color. Laundering and irradiation fastness of mordanted fabrics were improved as compared with nonmordanted fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.439-447
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to explore the accuracy and reliability of subjective evaluation instruments in evaluating sensibility of similar fabrics, Kendall's coefficient of concordance W (agreement among subjects) and Spearman rank correlation coefficient (reproducibility after 1 week) were used to evaluate which one is more efficient. Eight kinds of linen-like silk fabrics finished with polyurethane resin were used, Subjective evaluation instruments such as rating scale method, contrasting method against a control, rank ordering method, paired comparison and Quad analysis were used, 'Stiffness and Pliability' and 'Preference of summer fabric' were estimated, From the result of subjective stiffness and pliability, which are effective on objective properties of fabric, the rating scale method in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient were given the highest score, From the result of subjective preference of summer fabric, which are effective on individual sensibility, contrasting method against a control in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient revealed the highest score, Regarding the accuracy, reliability and efficiency, Quad analysis was an efficient method for subjective evaluation of linen-like silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the efficiency of four different cleaning method of silk and to fabrics, which were excavated from the sixteenth century tombs. The four cleaning methods were hand washing in water and hand washing in solvent, washing in ultrasonic cleaner, and using of ultrasonic gun after washing in ultrasonic cleaner. The following is the result of the experiment: ㆍBoth silk and jute fabrics shrank the most after hand-wash in water. This cleaning method decreased their thickness the most but changed their strength the least. However, the color of the fabric changed the most after had-wash in water. This washing method might discolor the dyed fabric, so one must check the condition of the fabric thoroughly before washing it. ㆍThe weight and the thickness of the fabric changed little after ultrasonic cleaning. This cleaning method, therefore. is less efficient than hand-water-wash. The use of ultrasonic gun after ultrasonic wash for partial cleansing enhanced the efficiency a little. Nevertheless, this method left stain around the area where the gun was used, and the injected water could damage the fabric. ㆍThe excavated fabric became softer in the cleaning process as the dirt was washed away. In both cases of silk and jute fabrics cleaning, solvent made the fabric softer than water. Washed in solvent, the fabric did not swell. But water penetrated to the fiber during the cleaning process and made the fabric swell. When the water evaporates, the swollen fiber structure collapses and the fabric become stiff. Ultrasonic wash did not cause much change in the flexibility of the fabric, for this method does not remove the dirt as effectively as the other method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.4
• /
• pp.561-570
• /
• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.6
• /
• pp.29-40
• /
• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.61-65
• /
• 1986

This work was to realize the wrinkling behavior of spun silk fabric. The results were obtained through the various conditions such as temperature, wrinkling time, wrinkling load and crease recovery time. The obtained results were summerized as follows : 1. Wrinkle recovery of the silk fabric was decreased with the increase of temperature, humidity and the influence of humidity was superior to the influence of temperature. 2. The change of wrinkle recovery depending on the wrinkle recovery time showed the experimental equation (Y=a+b lnT). The wrinkle recovery increased with the lapse of wrinkle recovery time but arrived at the equilibrium position about 300 sec. 3. The value "K1" of the silk fabric in the "Voigt model" was inferior as compared with the polyester and Nylon. 4. The change of wrinkle recovery depending on the wrinkling time was decreased with the lapse of wrinkle recovery time but the change of the value "a" could not be fined. 5. The change of wrinkle recovery depending on the wrinkling load was same as above 4.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.363-376
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this research was to investigate the property of sensibility of silk fabrics by the linen-like finishing-used polyurethane resin. Subjective evaluations of preference and related sensory descriptors were estimated. Also, related physical and psychological variables were measured. And their correlations were investigated. The value of EM, WT, WC, MIU, and qmax of silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin decreased and LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and SMD increased. Physical variables which affected on the preference of summer fabrics are B, 2HB, G, 2HG5, qmax, MIU and LT. It was confirmed that silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin were preferred as a summer fabric. Individual sensibilities that had effects on the preference of summer fabrics were softness including rough and cold. The intensities of weight value on sensory descriptors, which were related with the preference in summer environments, were in following orders: cold, rough, slippery, flexible, stiff and damp. There was no relationship between the subjective evaluation of preference and related sensory descriptors on the fabric and comfort sensation of fabric was derived from psychological variables

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.4
• /
• pp.81-95
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.3-12
• /
• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Dryopteris crassirhizoma by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability, antimicrobial and deodorant properties. The colorant of Dryopteris crassirhizoma was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton, the color yield of the silk and cotton fabric were most efficient the postmordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. The chroma produced clear for the Al-mordant of silk and the Cu-mordant of cotton in the 3% concentration of mordants, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The K/S values of cationized cotton were much higher than cotton. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added, In the case of the light fastness, Fe and Cu-mordants improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial and deordarant activity on both of the silk and the cotton.