• 감성과학
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.23-28
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 의류용 직물의 소리와 변환색채의 특성을 분류하고, 역학특성과의 관계분석을 통해 직물의 역학적 특성과 소리 그리고 변환색채와의 관계를 상관분석하고자 하였다. 다양한 의류용 직물의 스치는 소리를 녹음한 후 소리의 물리량으로 군집분석을 하였으며, Okamoto와 Mori의 색채변환 프로그램을 이용하여 직물의 소리를 색채로 변환하였다. 직물의 소리는 각각 silky, crispy, paper-like, worsted, flax의 다섯 그룹으로 나뉘었다. Silky는 매끄럽고 부드러운 견직물 등으로 구성되었으며, LPT(소리의 음압), $\Delta$f, ARC값이 군집 중 가장 낮아 심리 음향학적 loudness(z)와 sharpness(z)가 제일 낮은 조용한 직물들로 나타났다. 변환된 색채는 홍색 계열이었으며 색채 빈도수가 가장 많았다. raper-like는 뻣뻣하고 파삭파삭한 직물들로 LPT, $\Delta$f ARC값이 군집 중 가장 높아 loudness와 sharpness가 높은 시끄러운 직물들로 나타났다. Worsted는 모직물과 모직물 느낌의 직물들로 LPT, $\Delta$f, loudness값이 paper-like다음으로 높은 값을 보였으며 sharpness는 유사했다. Paper-like와 worsted의 변환된 색채는 청색 계열이 주류를 이루었으며 매우 낮은 색채 빈도수를 나타냈다. Crispy는 표면이 까실까실한 느낌의 직물들로 loudness(z)와 sharpness(z)의 값은 높지 않았으나 변환된 색채는 다양한 색채계열과 빈도수를 나타냈다.

• 감성과학
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.99-114
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• 2018

색동은 고대부터 사용해 온 우리 고유 원단이며 다양한 색사를 경사로 사용하여 동일간격 세로 줄무늬가 반복적으로 나타나도록 평직, 수자직으로 직조한 것이다. 본 연구는 고대의 색동이 어떻게 발생하였고 그 의미가 무엇인지에 대해 고찰하였다. 연구방법으로는 선행논문 및 단행본, 학술지 등의 문헌자료, 박물관 자료, 신문과 사진 자료, 인터넷 검색 등을 이용하였으며 도자기, 금속공예, 무용 등 복합예술의 다양한 분야에서 나타난 고대문화의 연결고리를 고찰하였다. 또 조선족 자료와 일본의 아스카 문화 및 다카마스총의 고분벽화를 통해서 고구려, 백제의 흔적을 살펴 보았다. 색동은 즐거움, 기쁨, 경사, 하늘의 축복, 신령함, 바람, 풍작 등을 의미하며 우리 선조의 낙천적이고 긍정적인 정서를 표현하는데 구체적으로 살펴보면 첫째, 색동으로 나라와 가정의 경사와 즐거움, 기쁨의 감정을 표현하였으며 좋은 일이 반복되고 지속되길 기원하는 마음을 나타내었다. 둘째, 단아한 아름다움을 통해 질서, 평등, 조화를 상징한다. 셋째, 색동은 생명, 힘이며 신성한 존재로서 숭상된 하늘에 속한 신비스러운 새를 나타낸다. 넷째, 부와 풍요로서 비, 바람 또는 밭이랑을 상징한다. 조선족과 일본에 남아 있는 우리 한복과 색동의 경쾌하고 선명한 색사용을 통해 우리 선조의 자긍심과 정체성을 엿볼 수 있었다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.65-77
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• 1982

The intent of this study was to focus attention on the relationship between curtain fabrics and consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. This study consisted of the laboratory test for thermal transmittance of selected fabrics and the exploratory survey for consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. The objectives of the laboratory test were to measure fabric's thermal transmittance, thickness, and count which affect to the effect in heat controlling. Selected 23 fabrics were tested at Korean Yarn and Fabrics Testing Inspection Institute. The objectives of the exploratory survey were to determine sociodemographic factors; the stage of family life cycle, the economics status, and homemaker's level of education, and physical factors; the type of houses, the direction of windows, and the type of windows, affect consumer perceptions toward curtains and draperies. Questionaires were administered to 489 homemakers selected by a stratified propotional sampling plan, in Seoul in October, 1981. Data from responses were analyzed by T-test(Analysis of Varience) and Partial Correlation. The major findings are as follows; 1. The results of the laboratory test 1) The fabrics used for draperies had higher effect in heat controlling than the fabrics used for glass curtains. 2) It did not show much differences among the fibers in heat controlling. The thicker fibers, however, had the higher effect in heat controlling among same fibers. 3) The fabrics which had high level of effect I heat controlling were corduroy, flax, rayon, nylon, acetate, thick polyester, and thick polyacrylic. The fabrics which had midium level of affect in heat controlling were velveteen, velvet, and thin polyester. The fabrics which had low level of effect in heat controlling were cotton, silk, and thin polyarcylic. 4) The draperies with lining showed 2∼5 times more effective in heat controlling than the draperies without lining. 2. The results of the exploratory survey Consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies consisted of functional, financial, and aesthetic perception. 1) Factor affecting functional perception towards curtains and draperies was the stage of family life cycle. Families in the contracting stage considered function of curtains and draperies significantly better than those in others stages. 2) Factors affecting financial perception towards curtains and draperies were the economic status, homemaker's level of education, the direction of windows, and the type of windows. However the correlation between the factors and financial perception was too low to explain the significance of tendency. 3) There was not any factors affecting aesthetic perception towards curtains and draperies.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.4-17
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• 2011

능산리 사지 출토 백제 면직물은 1999년 9월부터 2000년 4월까지 실시된 부여 능산리 사지 6차 발굴조사에서 출토된 후 보존 처리를 마치고 국립부여박물관에 소장된 유물이다. 본 연구에서는 섬유의 과학적 동정을 위해 비파괴적 화학적 형태적 분석을 실시하였으며 삼국시대 '백첩포'와 고려 말 '목면'의 유입경로와 특징 등을 밝히고자 백제 면직물의 역사적 가치와 의의를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, 적외선 흡광 영역 및 정색 반응 등에서 식물성 셀룰로오스 섬유의 특징이 나타났으며 형태학적 분석에서 면 섬유의 특징인 천연 꼬임과 중공이 뚜렷이 발견됨에 따라 면직물로 분석되었다. 백제 면직물은 축면의 면직물로 이제까지 면직물의 축면직물이 발견된 것은 처음이며 이러한 면직물이 백제지역에서 제직되었는지는 아직 정확히 밝힐 수 없으나, 백제지역은 마한시대부터 견솜으로 실을 자아 직물을 제직했다는 기록이 있어 오랜 세월 축적된 제사기술이 있음을 알 수 있다. 본 연구결과는 현재까지 삼국시대 면직물이 만들어지고 사용되었다는 문헌의 기록은 있으나 실증적 자료가 국내에 출토된 적이 없는 상황에서 백제 면직물의 가설을 실증적으로 확인시켜주는 자료로써 그 역사적 가치와 의의가 매우 크다. 향후 각 지역의 고대 목화종자와의 비교 분석 연구 등을 통해 백제 면직물의 품종과 고대 한반도 유입경로를 밝힐 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

본 연구는 2015년 9월, 보물 제1879호로 지정된 동국대학교 박물관 소장 <희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식을 고찰한 것이다. <희경루방회도>는 1567년 6월 광주목(光州牧) 관아의 희경루(喜慶樓)에서 개최된 동방(同榜) 계회(契會)를 그린 것으로, 방회(榜會)의 주인공인 관료 5인과 관아 소속의 향리(鄕吏), 아전(衙前), 나장(羅將), 조례(?隷), 악공(樂工), 여기(女妓), 동기(童妓) 등 다양한 신분의 남녀가 묘사되어 있다. 이들이 착용하고 있는 복식을 밝히기 위해 문헌자료와 복식유물, 회화자료 등을 활용하였으며 연구범위는 겉으로 드러나는 두식(頭飾)과 포류(袍類), 그에 따른 부속품류로 한정하였다. 현직에 있는 시임관료(時任官僚)는 사모(紗帽) 홍단령(紅團領)을 착용하였다. 그 외에 품계에 따른 품대(品帶)와 흑화(黑靴)를 신었을 것으로 추정된다. 현직에서 물러난 원임관료(原任官僚)는 말총[마미(馬尾)]이나 사(紗)로 싼 흑립(黑笠)에 홍직령과 도아(?兒) 등을 착용하였다. 향리는 흑죽방립(黑竹方笠)에 흰색 직령(直領)을 입고 도아를 띠었다. 고려시대에는 방립이 왕 이하 지식층에서 썼던 관모였지만 조선전기에는 향리의 관모로 전락하였는데 그 착용 모습이 <희경루방회도>에서 확인되었다. 아전은 흰색 직령에 흑립을 쓰고 도아를 띠었다. 나장은 조건(?巾)을 쓰고 철릭 위에 반비의(半臂衣)를 착용하는 것이 규정이었지만 <희경루방회도> 속 나장은 반비의를 착용하지 않고 조건과 철릭만 착용한 모습이었다. 또한 조례는 포(布)로 싼 흑립에 홍철릭을 착용하고, 악공은 소모자에 홍철릭을 착용하였다. 나장 이하 하속은 허리에 모두 청색 계통의 도아를 둘렀다. 여기(女妓)와 동기(童妓)는 주인공의 시중을 들거나 춤을 추고 연주를 하고 있었는데 여기들은 크게 부풀린 둥근 고계(高?)에 홍색 대요(臺腰)를 두르고 곧은 깃 또는 젖힌 깃의 황장삼(黃長衫)을 입고 허리띠를 둘렀다. 동기는 뒤쪽에 양 갈래로 짧게 땋아 내린 머리에 교임형 홍색 포를 착용하였다.