• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.818-826
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• 2009

Dyeability of microbial violacein produced from Chromobacterum violaceum CV107 on to multifiber fabrics has been studied. The bluish-purple colourants were produced by cultivation of Chromobacterum violaceum using LB liquid medium for 2 days. The colourant was extracted with 80% acetone and identified as violacein by LC/MS analysis. The violacein could be dyed on not only natural fibers such as Cotton, Silk and Wool but also synthetic fibers such as Diacetate, Triacetate, Creslan 61 and Nylon 66. Maximum K/S values were shown at 540-580 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of purple or blue. An optimum pH and temperature under dyeing condition were 10 and $70^{\circ}C$, respectively. Any mordants were not improved colour density and quality on various fabrics. From this studies, pigments produced microbe have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics. Finally, development of new colourants from microbe has made a possible change for new dyeing field in respects of eco-friend and repeatability of natural dyeing for apparels.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.208-215
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• 2018

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.290-298
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• 2011

Natural Omija belongs to magnoliaceae was known to possess natural odor, taste, color, and various pharmaceutical & chemical characteristics. Omija extraction was extracted using ethanol as a solvent. Omija extract showed a light red-violet color of viscous liquid state. Some conclusions from the result of characteristic experiment were obtained as follows. From the result of antimicrobial experiment, occurrence of staphylococuss aureus and aspergillus niger as microbes was decreased according to the passage of time. This phenomenon could know that Omija component is affected to antimicrobial effect. From the result of dye experiment, fiber dyeing showed with some ivory color after dyed to cotton and silk. This phenomenon could know that Omija component is affected to dyeing effect from observation of scanning electron microscope(SEM). From the result of instrument analysis, inorganic components of K(107.30ppm), Na(2.110ppm), Ca(0.935ppm), Mg(0.891ppm), Li(0.270ppm) etcs from Omija were detected with ICP/OES, and aromatic components of benzene(10.808), a-pinene(13.996), phenol(14.183), ${\beta}$-terpene(15.840), a-terpinolene(17.616) etcs from Omija were also detected with GC/MSD.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.129-144
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• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1567-1580
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• 2010

This study investigates the effects of visual texture on color emotion and establishes prediction models for color emotion by both physical color properties and visual texture characteristics. A variety of fabrics including silk, cotton, and flax were colored by digital textile printing according to chromatic hue and tone combinations that are evaluated in terms of color emotion. Subjective visual texture ratings are also obtained for gray-colored same fabrics to those used in color emotion tests. As a result, fabric clusters by visual texture factors showed significant differences in color emotion factors that are primarily affected by physical color properties. Finally prediction models for color emotion factors by both physical color properties and visual texture clusters were established, which has a potential to be used to explain color emotion according to the visual texture characteristics of fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.161-174
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• 2000

Today's advanced transport and mass media enables people to access easily and frequently to traditional costumes from different countries in the world. Consequently, fashion designers who are fascinated by the variety and beauty of traditional costumes, tend to adapt them to modern fashion design. The continuous study of traditional costumes at such time contains a meaning as a source of inspiration for the creation of a new fashion design. Therefore, among various costumes of the world, this study will focus on the costume of Palestine, that is situated at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Afria and has exchanged various historical cultures with other cultural regions. It, especially, expects to provide a unique idea in the material modification field of today's fashion design by examining mainly the embroidery ornament which is the most distinctive feature of Palestinian costume. The conclusion was revealed that Palestinian women's costume largely consists of embroidered silk and cotton garments with a V-slitted square panel (gabeh) attached to the chest part. And a variety of luxurious embroidery was employed to emphasize different parts of the dress. These embroideries differ from area to area. Especially the embroidery from Bethlehem was well-known in many places and influenced those of other regions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.138-150
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• 2012

Nano Inkjet DTP technology, a new technology introduced recently, can be applied to various types of fabric, and pre-treatment process can be omitted, which makes the whole printing process compact. Some important factors for DTP are color difference between the color selected by the designer on PC and the color on the final product and durability of the final fabrics. In this study, the twenty-three trend colors of 2012-2013 F/W suggested by PeclersParis have been picked to be printed on cotton, silk and polyester fabrics, then K/S and ${\Delta}E$ value and color fastness were measured. The results show that dyeability of fabric is varied for each color group, and that also tone of color affect to dyeability when measured for colors in the same group. In general, for all fabric, light fastness, washing fastness and color fastness to sublimation are outstanding. However, because of poor rubbing fastness, additional treatment to fix colorant on fabric is required.