• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.10-18
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• 1997

Sleeping is important for human being in that it has a great effect on their daily activities. Considering that an average adult sleeps seven to eight hours a third of our life is spent in bed. The present study intends to make consumers aware of the important of the bedding science and help the manufactures develop efficient, up-to-date beds. For these two purposes, consumers' recognitions and opinions on the features of the bedding were surveyed. In the study, a questionnaire consisting of various items on the features of the bedding was designed and distributed to consumers in 8 regions & Taegu in Korea to survey the patterns in which they buy, use, and maintain their bedding. The result of the study are as follows; Air conditioner is widely used popular because of hot weather in Taegu. People in Taegu mostly purchase their bedding from market, in every 5~6 years. The important point to be considered for bedding purchases were humidity absorption, air permeability, light weight in summer comforters, thermal insulation, flexibility, color figure design in winter comforters, humidity absorption, flexibility, color figure design in mats. As summer bedding, a sheet of single-layer quilt and rush mat were most popular which indicates climate of hot and humid weather in Taegu. Bedding uses in winter were in order a sheet of cotton, silk, wool quilt, and silk quilt showed high level in contrast to other areas. Dissatisfactions with summer quilts were humidity absorption, air permeability, heaviness and in winter quilts they were dissatisfied with thermal insulation, heaviness, flattening. In details about bedding managements, people in Taegu most frequently disinfected their bedding by sunlight in one month, and refinished every 5 years.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.343-348
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• 2006

This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.185-195
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• 1999

This study was carried out to improve the skin care property of the polyester fabric by finishing with sericin. It was known that skin care function, anti-oxidation, anti-tyrosinase activity and anti-elastase activity can be achieved from sericin finish. But, the moisture regain of the finished fabric was measured simply, because the major cause of the discomfort from polyester fabric has been anounced to be wetness. The effects of various treatment conditions on the properties of the finished fabric were measured, and obtained results were as follows: 1. The moisture regain at 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH were increased with the sericin uptake increasing. while it was not significant for the effects on the moisture regain depending on the treatment conditions like the degree of polymerization and treatment concentration of the binder. The moisture release of the fabric having sericin uptake 1%, 2% was faster than non treated fabric. The change of the moisture regain of the finished fabric from 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH to room temperature was 4∼5 times higher than that of knitted cotton fabric. 2. The frictional static charge was decreased with the degree of polymerization of the binder increasing. While the sericin uptake and treatment concentration of the binder were not significant. 3. The whiteness value of the fabric was slightly decreased by finishing with sericin and binder. In that cases, W values of the finished fabrics were above 90 while that depending on the degree of polymerization of the binder was not significant. 4. The major cause of the yellowness of the finished fabric was proved to be catalyst. The yellowness of the finished fabric with sulfur containing catalyst was lower than that with amine group containing catalyst. 5. The effects of the treatment concentrations of the cross-linking agent, catalyst and drying time on the wash durability were not significant.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

본 연구의 목적은 실질적인 출토복식의 보수를 통해서 보수방법의 합리적인 방안을 모색하는데 있다. 출토복식의 경우 유기물이라는 특징으로 인해 출토되는 순간 이미 위약한 상태이므로 출토복식에 대한 상태를 철저히 조사한 후 가능한 물리적 힘을 가하지 않는 방법으로 최소한의 보수만을 진행하였다. 그리고 다음과 같은 과정으로 보수하였다. 보수는 출토복식의 상태에 따라 보수 가능한 것을 분류하여 출토복식 직물의 상태를 고려하여 최대한 안정하게 적용시켰다. 보수용 실의 경우는 강도가 약한 정련한 얇은 주아사의 실을 뽑아서 사용하거나 광열화시킨 명주실을 사용하였다. 보수용 직물은 직물의 종류에 따라 셀룰로오스 계 직물은 면직물을 견직물은 주아사나 명주를 정련하여 사용하였으며 일부는 비슷한 색을 내기위해 오리나무 염색과 감 염색을 하였고 방충 방균 처리를 위해 정향으로 염색한 천을 사용하여 보수하였다. 보수의 방법은 손상형태 및 복식의 구성양식에 따라 구분하여 실시하였다. 보수의 바느질법은 시침질, 홈질, 박음질, 공그르기, 감침질의 방법을 사용하여 훼손 부위와 상태에 적합한 바느질법을 선택하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.