• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1188-1195
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• 2005

The effects on the dyeing properties and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with camomile extract were analyzed. As the results obtained, the surface color of all the dyed fabric was tinged with the yellow of the bright color tone. In the test results of durability, the durability to sunlight of the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk showed from 2nd grade to 3rd grade. The durability to laundry of the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk showed relatively higher grade of 4th-5th. The durability to synthetic sweat of all the fabrics except fer the dyed fabric mordanted with $CuSO_4{\cdot}5H_2O$ showed the relatively good result of 3rd- 5th grade. The durability to friction and dry cleaning of all the dyed fabrics showed the excellent result of 4th-5th grade. In the test results of antibiosis, the dyed fabric of cotton showed the decrease rate of $50\%$ to Staphylococcus aureus and the decrease rate of $70\%$ to Klebsiella pneumoniae. The dyed fabric of silk showed the significant effect with Microscopic growth to the mold bacillus Aspergillus niger.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.60-66
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• 2003

This study shows the colorfastness, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effect about cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Lithospermi Radix Extract. In the case of colorfastness, the light colorfastness showed the lowest grade, the other colorfastness was relatively good. However there are some differences according to fabrics and mordants. In the case of antibacterial activity to Staphylococcus aureus, the cotton fabrics had the most antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted SnC1$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$, and the silk fabrics had the most antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted A1($CH_3$COO)$_3$. In the case of deodorizing effect, the cotton fabrics showed the most deodorizing effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted SnC1$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$, and the silk fabrics showed the comparatively high antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted both SnCl$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$ and Al($CH_3$COO)$_3$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

To investigate the combination dyeing properties of natural dyes, the combination dyeing using gallnut,-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood, and gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia was performed on bast fiber of mulberry, cotton, silk, and their K/S values, colors, and sunlight fastness were measured. The gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia dyeing showed the highest K/S values when the dyeing concentration of gallnut is 3%. It tended to show the higher K/S values than gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood. The silk showed the highest values of in K/S, and then followed by cotton, and bast fiber of mulberry. The mordants developed different colors on the bast fiber and the cotton treated with gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood. However, the silk showed a series of YR, showing no effect of the mordants on the development of color. The combination dyeing of gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia showed a series of Y. The results showed that sappan wood could develop various colors but gardenia could develop a series of Y. No distinct improvement on sunlight fastness of the combination dyeing was observed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.353-370
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• 2023

In this study, the performance of ultrasonic cleaners for ultrasonic washing, which is one of the wet cleaning methods, was evaluated. The washing performances of ultrasonic cleaners were compared with commercial washing machines under normal and wool courses based on different parameters such as detergency, wrinkle formation, fabric damage, dimensional stability, and germ removal ability. Cotton, silk and wool were used in this experiment. Results revealed that the ultrasonic washing detergency of cotton fabrics was lower than that of commercial washing machines under the normal course and similar to that of commercial washing machines under the wool course. Detergency of silk fabrics was similar under both normal and wool courses. In terms of wrinkle formation and dimensional stability, ultrasonic cleaners showed lesser wrinkles and lower shrinkage than commercial washing machines. Considering damage evaluation, ultrasonic cleaners more effectively removed soil without damaging fabrics compared with commercial washing machines. The bacteria removal rate of both cotton and silk was more effective than the wool course of a commercial washing machine. Thus, this study compares the performance of ultrasonic cleaners and commercial washing machines and provides meaningful results related to ultrasonic washing performance.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.